Number Ten Ox Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 One year after joining the board I am going to start posting my workouts. The training started out as a way to boost my bouldering power, but a year later I spend a lot more time gripping for grips sake than I do climbing. In 2006 I want to climb a boulder problem in Squamish B.C. called The Proposal. It is rated v13 and is 6 moves long. Last time I tried I could do 4 of the 6 moves. It takes about 2 hours to get there from my house so I will get limited opportunites to try it this year as school and family are a priority. My training goals for 2006 to help me send The Proposal are as follows: Pinch- two 35's, Blob 50, 45# hub lift + 20 lbs. Grippers- MMO Coc #3 Lever-16# to nose One finger lift w/ webbing- 180#'s Plate Wrist Curl-35 x 5 I will add more I'm sure as time goes on, there are a LOT of intermediate goals to reach these... Some are going to be somewhat easy. Some are almost impossible for me. Well see. First workout tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deaner Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Did you see that contraption they made called the "plank of woe"? That seems like a great way to better your bouldering. You could even tailor the holds on it to simulate the holds on the problem you are working on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 I did see that and think it's a preety cool idea. I may make one some day. For a smaller substitute I am making a contraption with holds on it that I can lift with a weighted loading pin. Thanks for the comment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Ten Ox - how about a picture of the route - love to see what it looks like and what you've been able to do so far! Good Luck on one very hard problem! Also explain each hold - be it tiney edge, sloper, mono pocket etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 1st move Start sitting on a big flat jug. Rt hand up to a bad pinch. No problem... http://www.0friction.com/image.php?image_id=6454 2nd move Get a heel toe w/rt foot, flag left under body. Left hand up to really bad flat vulcan pinch thing. http://www.0friction.com/image.php?image_id=6455 3rd move Uncurl body from wierd position, switch feet on start hold and slap flat horizontal wall. It's all body tension and SQEEZE! 4th move Slap Left hand up to wife blob like pinch. It's hard and a bad hold. http://www.0friction.com/image.php?image_id=6456 5th move Somehow crank on that really bad wide left hand pinch and reach up to an upside down triangle palm thing. Hold it with pinky up and and squeeze with palm and fingers. 6th move Left to crimp over lip. Top out. Not super hard if you can get your body in the right position, which is the trick to the whole route. It's very body tension dependant! It's also granite so cold weather is best so the friction helps hold you on. Whatch Chris Sharma climb this at the end of the video "Rampage" by Josh Lowell. It's the last thing he does @ the end of his road trip. I'll try to get video or pictures of the last few moves. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 (edited) hands felt sore this morning but I soaked them and now they feel ok start 9:45 pm 10x sporting goods gripper 1x #1coc w/ filed handles 1x choked #2 w/ filed handles Hubs: 25# ivanko clean and press 2 singles IM tug #4 pinch attempts x 4 35# ivanko hub broke ground, then lifted to shoulder for 3 singles (PR) 45# CAP brand-got it to glide over carpet but didn't break ground Blob50- 3 attempts each hand from scale. Best effort left 18#'s on scale. Bounced 45 hub on bed and stalled it in the air. (Bed Bounce Negatives) Blob50 2 finger lift-two handsx2 lifted 45 hub from bed with minimal bounce 2 singles each hand (PR) Blob bed bounce stalls x 6 One Finger Lifts (3/4" webbing loop around carabiner and loading pin) All done with Middle Phalangee alternating hands 3rd digit (middle finger)- 105, 120, 4th (ring)-85,95 3rd-125 4th-100 2nd (pointer)-90,100 5th (pinky)-60,70 Almost all PR's as I've only done this lift once before. End 11:30 pm Felt like I could do more but I want to do grippers, sledge, and wrist curls tomorrow so I'll restrain. Edited January 2, 2006 by Number Ten Ox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Awesome looking route! Good luck with it. It looks mostly open hand stuff with tons of body tension to create side pressure on the holds so you can even begin to hold them. Great Goal for the coming year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 3, 2006 Author Share Posted January 3, 2006 Got off work late so Just warmed up a bit with easy gripper, worked up to a few 2 closes and then just did a bunch of closes with my 3 in a hose clamp. It's clamped pretty tight-5 pennies. Did about 30 closes while I studied and played poker. Inverted and normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 4, 2006 Author Share Posted January 4, 2006 (edited) First day at First hospital. United Gen. in Sedro Wolley. I think I will like my new job. GRIP STUFF. 15x sporting goods gripper both hands. 30 min playing with bowling ball. Tossed hand to hand. Throw up in air with one hand and catch with same hand a bunch of time. Pass between legs until failure, rest a minute and switch directions. Curl a bunch. Curl and press till failure. Just press and then hold up in air until hands give out. Just hold up in air... Hands are tired, especially in the meat under pinky. Feels like I did a ton of closes with a # 1. May work out more... Climb tomorrow so I don't want to push too hard. Edited January 4, 2006 by Number Ten Ox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muscle Turtle Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 move #4 looks SICK!!! strong hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 Judging by the chalk on the rest of the route - or lack of it - now it starts to get hard huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 Last night after the other stuff I ended up playing in my rice bucket about 5-10 min and closing my sporting gripper a bunch, working up to 37 reps with a 30 sec. hold@ the end. Today I bouldered inside about 1.5 hrs. Felt pretty good and strong but the stamina left fairly quickly. Tomorrow lever? plate wrist curls? grippers? pinch? all? I work till late so who knows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Left Side Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Don't miss pinch whatever you do. Great carryover to climbing there. Ox have you ever tried doing block lifts with large rocks? I like them, it's a great workout, as the surface is uneven and offers little purchase, and it keeps your hands accustomed to gripping rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Whenever my wife and I go to the beach she gets anoyed, shes trying to hold my hand and be romantic and I keep picking up bigger and bigger rocks to pinch or toss back and forth from hand to hand. My golden retriever really likes this excersis too, I swear she is always looking for a new PR. May do grip later tonight, did a little light gripper work on the way to the hospital as well as dome rubber band extensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 My active rest aparently did me well. After my contrast bath last night I started playing with an axe doing some levering it felt good so I grabbed grippers and when doing some warmup stuff with my #1 and 2 felt Horrible. My skin still hurt from my last gripper workout. I quess that's what happens when you don't touch a gripper for 3 weeks. But I started doing hub lifts and these felt good. Cleaned and press my 25 a couple times, was tossing around the 35 and was going to try the 45. But.... While dinking around downstaits I found some square stock I was going to use for bending if I ever started that hobby. Just fooling around I picked up this 3/16 hot rolled piece that was three feet long and grapped it it the middle. (I had previosly marked lines every 6 inches so I could cut it. Inever did get around to cutting it.) Anyways I grapped it by the center 6 inches and bent it. Bent it really quick and then kept opening it and closing it till it snapped. I fiqured this could be a fun way to learn to bend, know its easy cause it's such a long piece but my hands were touching each other so I fiqure it was like a 6.5" piece. Feeling pretty good about myself (with sore hands, I had no pads and it was square stock) I found a 6" x 1/4" bolt from Home Depot. I took off my t shirt and wrapped the bolt a few times and just folded that bolt right it half! Not bad for my first night bending! I then found a 60 penny nail from H.D. and kinked it but couldn't finish it. Ahh well, save that for my second workout. Now I need some real hand pads or leather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Left Side Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 Glad to hear you're getting into bending. Pick up the IM pads and go man! Sounds like you're already well past the grade 2 bolt, and with pads and some form practice, I have no doubt the 60d will be history. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 Went to the hardware store and picked up some bolts today. Bent a 6,5.5, and 5" 1/4" carriage bolt no problem. I also bought a 6,5.5, and 5" "g2 hex cap screw galv" but couldn't bend the 6" though I did kink it. I also bought a 1/4 x 6" g5 (it's almost black) and the same in stainless steel. How hard should the stainless be? I didn't even bother trying either of them... @ work (Home Depot) I grabbed some stuff off the shelf and bent another couple of 1/4" carraige bolts and tried a 5" 5/16 carraige bolt. It looks the same as when I took it off the shelf. I tried the 60d a bunch of times until my thumb pads and wrist started hurting. I kinked it a little but couldn't budge it after that. So... I bent a bunch with a pipe to varying angles. I managed to crush a 60d from 90 degrees without too much trouble. So I guess i'm strongest right now on the crushdown and weakest on kink/sweep. Now contrast bath and arnica gel and a full day of rest. I like bending, I am adding a 60d to my goals for the year and depending how fast I move along a g5 would be nice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 7, 2006 Author Share Posted January 7, 2006 I didn't mean to bend anymore tonight I didn't. I was just sitting here relaxing and reading. I picked up a piece of metal just to see how it felt holding it in different positions. I had done all my other bends DU and flipped it over for the hard crushdowns and finished DO but while twisting up my dishrag like I saw some euros do I accidentaly started bending a piece of 1/4" x 6" hrs and bent it to a pulp( is it Terminator style that "Bender uses?) Why is it soooo good to bend metal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 Today at work I couldn't help myself and bent and snapped a Home Depot 1/4"x6" bolt. Then I found a bunch of mini phone books (about 3/8") thick and started trying tearing them using the techniques I learned in Clays new article. Got up to 5 books (about 2") with the POP method, 3 books with the grip and rip and only 2 books with the sideways tear. Nice fun and a good pump. Tonight did: Axe/horizontal handle shovel levering warm up. One hand DL with thick handle (2"pvc)-145 both hands, 155 both, 160 Left. Filed #1 x 1 x 2 Filed #2 x 1 x 2 Modified #3 (chopped 3/4" off then added 26 washers...) x4. Only one close but that's a PR. Hose Clamp #3 a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 Also ended up doing a bunch of #3 parralel sets (just practicing the MM0 set) and chest crushes w/ the 3 and 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 Couldn't help but do one last thing. A set of many closes on the filed #2, when I couldn't close anymore all the way I forced it shut and held it for a slow negative until my hold was fried. Then did a longer set like that with a #1. Then a nice HOT and very cold contrast bath, a little arnica massage and now to bed. The meat under my pinkys is nice and fat and hard, hasn't been in a while it's nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 Active/Rest day- Hot Bath/Arnica and Absorbine plus drugs. Sport store gripper x 10, 25 +hold @ end, 40, hold close a long time, mini clicks x 80 + hold, etc... Rice Bucket x 5 minutes. Homeade formulator extensions-5# x a bunch till burn. Feel pretty good except for big callus built up on right hand from hose clamp grippers. Hurts like the dickens, tried to bite it off al day to no avail. May have to do no sets or attempts w/out chalk for a while... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Went climbing @ friend Sams house today. Warmed up on moderates and did all my projects from last week. Felt super strong! I basically did everything I thought was really hard one week ago. This lasted about an hour until I started to get a deep bouldering pump and the stamina died off. I guess that's what I get climbing one dayt a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Well, I have met my first goal for 2006, and it's also the last one I proposed! I just bent my first 60d nail! I ordered my IM pads so late on Monday night that it was actually very early Tuesday morning. I got my pads in the mail today. At first I was bummed that I couldn't bend ANYTHING, not even a g2 bolt I crushed and snapped with a t-shirt. I was then even more bummed when I discovered I had already put a small hole in my new toy. (Is this normal?) But then I warmed up with a 9" piece of 3/16 square stock that I was able to snap. I kept playing with a ton of hand postitions/wraps/bolts and finally ended up with the pads folded over to about a 3" strip and wrapped tightly around both ends of my 60d. I kept trying to hit it DO like I have seen in so many videos and finally it just gave way! Once it kinked and heated it didn't have a chance I just crushed it. My pecs are going to be tired tomorrow but oh well!. Now where is that grade 5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisof4 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Well, I have met my first goal for 2006, and it's also the last one I proposed!I just bent my first 60d nail! Congrats on the PR! That is a goal I hope to also hit soon. Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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