cb_6 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Hey everyone, bit of a newbie here. I'm a rock climber, albeit not a very good one! But I'm trying to get strong and lean to improve at my sport of choice. Figure I might as well start an online training log, no point including previous workouts so let's start with today's All weights in kilos Deadlift 5x67 5x77 3x87 2x97 5x3x114.5 Gripper work Trainer 6 6 (inverted) 12 Green band 22 22 30 #0.5 6 6 5 Yellow band 16 16 21 #1 2 2 Box pistol squat 6 6 5 2 hand pinch (2 1/8") 5x40 3x45 (+1 failed rep) 5x42.5 Full contact twist 7x17 2x5x19.5 Conditioning Farmers walk 53kg 15 metres Kettlebell clean and jerk 5x16 each side Farmers walk 53kg 15 metres Kettlebell snatch 5x16 each side Farmers walk 53kg 15 metres 3 rounds Only recently started Deadlifting again and this was my first time training pinch in a long time. Felt good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Tell me a little about your climbing - how long have you been involved - what level - sport - trad - indoors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boldt Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I used to compete in climbing, you indoor or outdoor focus? Boulder or sport? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I used to compete in climbing, you indoor or outdoor focus? Boulder or sport? Are you still climbing/competing - I see where your BW is over 200# these days? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Tell me a little about your climbing - how long have you been involved - what level - sport - trad - indoors? Hey mate. Been climbing a little over three years. Mostly indoors, but when I can get out to a sport crag I will. Got my third trip to Kalymnos coming up, a major motivation for me to get in shape over the next few months. Currently climbing around 6b, although with Christmas weight I was struggling on 6a+ during my last session a few days ago. The training isn't purely for climbing admittedly, some of it is just for my own satisfaction (like the grippers for example). What holds me back more than anything is my weight, currently nearly 100kg! So I'm dieting as well as training. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Piche Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Getting lean is done primarily with eating and what you eat. Not training. I happened to see the title and then looked for any mention of diet. I found none so that is why I mentioned it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Its hard to serve more than one master. Lifting weights can help climbing but you simply can't allow the lifting to put weight on you if climbing is the priority. One of the big problems with weight training is getting bigger if your goal is to do certain things better - climbing is one of those things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Getting lean is done primarily with eating and what you eat. Not training. I happened to see the title and then looked for any mention of diet. I found none so that is why I mentioned it. You're right and I've learnt this the hard way in the past. Currently I'm doing 5/2 intermittent fasting (2800kcal/800kcal) as well as significantly reducing my intake of alcohol. The weight is beginning to come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boldt Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I used to compete in climbing, you indoor or outdoor focus? Boulder or sport?Are you still climbing/competing - I see where your BW is over 200# these days? Just starting to dabble again I had trouble with keeping my tendons healthy I was 190 when I competed so still pretty heavy for a climber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 How seriously did you compete? What sort of grades were you capable of at the time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 As obvious as grip training is to climbing - there are very few posts on the Grip Board about the subject - kind of a shame I think. But in reality, much of what we do here doesn't have much direct carry over to climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Maybe so, but it's better than nothing. Since I own my own weights, but don't own a hangboard since I can't mount it in my rented house I need to find alternative training methods. It's a way of increasing my weekly training volume from my own bedroom on top of sessions at the wall. Besides, surely pinching has a carry-over? Increasing general strengh and conditioning should also increase work capacity i.e. the body can handle more redpoint attempts in an afternoon, but maybe you're more qualified than I am to make that judgement. Besides, as I said earlier, I want to be generally stronger and I enjoy training. Climbing is the main application of that training and is the only sport I do but it isn't the only reason. Part of me just wants to deadlift double my bodyweight, or close a CoC2, even if there are more appropriate things for a full time climber to be doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) Wall session Auto-belay, 6b redpoint. Enjoyed it, had some tricky footwork on smears which I'm not too confident on but it was a really satisfying sequence once I got it nailed. Repeaters on BM1000 7 sec hang / 5 sec rest x5, 6 sets, odd sets on deep edge, even sets on 20 degree sloper. Failed last rep of last set after 4 seconds. OHP 30kg 5 6 6 (I have a weak press) Neutral pull up +4kg 5 5 5 Dip +4kg 6 6 5 Dumbbell Row 35kg 8 8 7 messed around on cable machine - face pulls, cable crunches, pushdowns and curls, just getting a feel for exercises as I hadn't done most of them before so no recorded reps or weights Edited January 11, 2014 by cb_6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richcottrell Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 If you build a freestanding wall inside your rented space you will not have to put a single hole in a wall. I had a friend in WV do this and he had an incredible training set up complete with a hinged top to work negative incline holds. Sorry but I do not have any pictures but I think it was made with 3/4 inch plywood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Rich, I'd love to do that but a lack of space and funds prevents me :-( That said, maybe I should think about constructing a wooden freestanding pull up bar that I could mount a hangboard on... might be a pipedream though. Anyway, todays workout: Deadlift 8x67 6x77 4x87 2x97 1x107 5x3x117 Gripper and Bands Tx7 Gx24 T(i)x7 Gx24 Tx12 Gx30 0.5x6 Yx20 0.5x6 Yx20 0.5x6 Yx20 CoC1 3 2 Box Pistol Squat 7 6 6 2 hand pinch (2 1/8”) 42.5kg 4 4 4 Full Contact Twist 19.5kg 6 6 6 Conditioning Farmer’s Walk 55kg x15m Kettlebell Long Cycle 16kgx6 Farmer’s Walk 55kg x15m Kettlebell Snatch 16kgx6 Farmer’s Walk 55kg x15m 3 rounds, 2 minute rest between Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Having been a "climber" for 30 years in a state with no rock near by - I understand all about how weight training is sometimes all you can do to try and climb better. But beware - lifting can easily become more important than the climbing as we try to get stronger in the gym - and the carry over can be anywhere from limited to detrimental to your actual climbing progress. There is certainly nothing wrong about becoming stronger - but climbing is not so much about being stronger as about climbing better - something much more complex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tja Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Having been a "climber" for 30 years in a state with no rock near by - I understand all about how weight training is sometimes all you can do to try and climb better. But beware - lifting can easily become more important than the climbing as we try to get stronger in the gym - and the carry over can be anywhere from limited to detrimental to your actual climbing progress. There is certainly nothing wrong about becoming stronger - but climbing is not so much about being stronger as about climbing better - something much more complex. I have been climbing for four years now - nothing compared to your training. Indoors, both rope belayed and bouldering. For me there's been benefits both ways. Weighted chins/pull ups have made it easier to block on hard boulder problems, and climbing has tremendously helped endurance and ability to recover. About grip carry over, I think only thick bark work and pinch help some. Grippers, while fun, don't help you much on the wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 I don't train with grippers to help my climbing, I train with them because I want to Having been a "climber" for 30 years in a state with no rock near by - I understand all about how weight training is sometimes all you can do to try and climb better. But beware - lifting can easily become more important than the climbing as we try to get stronger in the gym - and the carry over can be anywhere from limited to detrimental to your actual climbing progress. There is certainly nothing wrong about becoming stronger - but climbing is not so much about being stronger as about climbing better - something much more complex. I can reassure you whole-heartedly that I understand the importance of learning technique and practicing movement and also that regular climbing, even if it is on plastic, takes priority over weight training. I've never claimed differently, I've just said that I enjoy strength training as well as climbing and if I'm going to strength train it might as well have a climbing bias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Yesterday's bits and bobs... Routes on auto-belay (I do have friends, honest!). Redpointed 6b+. Repeaters 7sec hang / 5 sec rest x5 Six total sets. Same as last time since I missed the last hang last time and I'd been doing more climbing. Will increase hang duration next workout Later at home... Pull Ups (+5kg, neutral grip) 6 5 5 Overhead Press 35kg ?* 5 5 5 *starting to wonder how much my bar actually weighs, thought it was 7kg which would make that working weight 37kg, however the fixed weight barbell at the gym the other day (yeah I know, not a very good gym but I get in for free as it's at the climbing centre) was supposedly 30kg and felt heavier than I was expecting. Need to properly weigh my bar and weights at some point so I know what I'm actually lifting.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) Yesterday's workout. Really pleased. I bought the CoC1 less than 2 months ago and could barely close it with 2 hands. Today I closed it 3 times for 3 sets with both hands (CCS too!). Always nice to see progress. Deadlift 6x77 5x87 3x97 2x107 5x3x119.5 Gripper and Bands Tx8 Gx30 T(i)x10 Gx30 Tx15 Gx35 0.5x7 Yx25 0.5x6 Yx25 0.5x6 Yx25 CoC1 3x3 Box Pistol Squat 7 7 7 2 hand pinch (2 1/8) 42.5kg 5 4 5 Full Contact Twist 19.5kg 7 7 7 Conditioning Complex with 37kg barbell RDL 10 8 6 Row 10 8 6 Hang Clean 10 8 6 Push Press 5 4 3 Squat 10 8 6 Incline Crunch 15 15 15 3 rounds, 1 minute rest between This evening, bouldering with friends Edited January 16, 2014 by cb_6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Climbing on Saturday morning, no hang boarding as I was so absorbed in the climbing circuits I was working on that by the time I was done my fingers were too tired and my skin too sore. I attempted, but only got halfway through the second set before calling it a day. Took yesterday off and trained today. Unfortunately I didn't do well with the grippers. I think I was too fatigued and should lower the overall volume and work on the hardest gripper sooner. Deadlift 77kg x7 87kg x5 97kg x5 107kg x2 112kg x1 122kg 5x3 Grippers and bands Tx10 Gx30 T(i)x10 Gx30 Tx15 Yx20 #0.5 3x7 Yx20 B 2x15 (tried blue band towards the base of my fingers. Think I might stay with yellow bands for now) #1 Left hand, two attempts, failed Right hand, four closes, one failed attempt Left hand, two closes, one failed attempt Right hand, four closes Right hand was stronger as usual. Really disappointing since I closed the #1 3 times for 3 sets last time. Oh well! Box pistols 8 8 8 Pinch (2 hands, 2 1/8") 42.5kg 5 5 6 Full contact twist 19.5kg 8 8 8 Conditioning Around the body pass x20 each direction Alternating hand swing x20 Long cycle x5 Snatch x10 Alternating hand swing x20 Around the body pass x20 each direction 16kg kettlebell, 2 rounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Been climbing quite a bit over the last few days. Starting to see some improvement from getting stronger and lighter. Today did repeaters, 8 seconds on, 5 seconds off, 5 reps, 6 sets, failed at 6 seconds on the last rep of the last set. Climbing tomorrow, workout Saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Had a great session, all top rope though as I didn't have a partner but I cleanly climbed three 6bs. I'd been working on two for a while and eventually got them, then climbed the third on the first attempt of the session (I'd played on it before). I then climbed a 6a+ on my first attempt - I think I'd tried it a few months ago but I didn't remember anything about it. I felt stronger and my technique seemed more fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb_6 Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Deadlift 77kg x8 87kg x6 97kg x5 107kg x3 117kg x1 1124.5kg 5x3 Gripper warm up Tx10 Tx10 (inverted) #0.5 2x5 CoC#1 3 2 2 Pull up +5kg 6 6 5 Overhead press 39.5kg 3x3 2 hand pinch (2 1/8") 45kg 3x3 Negative door frame pull ups 6 5 5 Yellow extensor band 3x30 Box pistols 9 9 8 FCT 22kg 3x5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.