Block Weights

[raziel]

So I've got two 40lb hex blobs that I have yet to break from the ground with one hand. They always seem too slick when I try and pick them up, unlike my 25lbers which are sanded (and obviously lighter).

Then I figured, since I have two 40lbers, I could sand one and leave the other smooth. Pick up and work out on the sanded one, then eventually move onto the smooth one.

Anyone try this progression? Think it'll work?

[Bearcat 74]

Yup, works well. I did that with my 50's.

[tspinillo]

I do the same thing. Yorks blobs aren't too bad, but the CAP Silver

hexes are too slick when new.

T

[chrisof4]

I have found that all I have to do is get some chalk rubbed into the paint, and even the really slick hex weights become manageable. I just put air under my 40lb last night by doing that.

[Davekline]

Is one brand of hex dumbbell prefered over another for making hex blocks?

[chrisof4]

I use the brand they sell at Dick's Sporting Goods, simply because that is what is available to me. They are made in China, and are relatively cheap. I can't speak to other brands.

[raziel]

the cheaper one

seriously, I just pick up any generic brand I find that has the weight I need. So far, it's been those generic gray weights you can find everywhere. They seem to work a-ok.

Anyone find a considerable difference in head width with different manufacturers?

[Clay Edgin]

When we got our 100lb hex dumbbell, we sanded off all the paint so the bare steel is exposed on the part of the hex head where your fingertips would contact the sides. The other 5 sides of the hex head still had the paint on them. It's only like a 3" x 2" area that is sanded and is a good stepping stone to doing it on the paint.