climber511 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 If you rock climb at a serious - or not so serious but regular level - please put your name down here. Please don't put your name down because you went climbing once somewhere :). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svr Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 I climb a few times a year. Some years more than others. The guys I climb with call me WFC, (Worlds Fattest Climber). Skinny bastards. I would be on the lower end of the serious and regular scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeezus Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 I used to be a pretty serious sport climber and boulderer. I wish I had more time to get back to pulling rock (or plastic), but it's hard to do with my schedule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminal Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 These days I mostly belay my daughters but I do climb a bit. Was more serious about 11 or 12 years ago, although not long enough to get very good. I am more inclined towards scrambling and alpinism nowadays. My ten year old daughter is very into sport climbing. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donc101 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Rock and ice climbing used to be my main focus. I have not went much in recent years but did some long climbs out in Nevada earlier this year that has me thinking about climbing again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedd Johnson Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Been climbing the tallest and scariest spider-infested rock faces since 1978. I find it very relaxing. Thanks Chris! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderbrew Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 I boulder and sport climb. I do bouldering competitions from time to time and get outside when I can (kinda hard here in Dallas) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul valpreda Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Bouldering, semi-regularly in both Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 7 hours ago, WestSlope said: @climber511 do you have a motive for creating this thread, or is this just to satisfy curiosity? For instance, do you want to make this a thread to discuss how climbing and gripsport training can be programmed, do you use VoodDoo floss as mentioned in this blog http://eveningsends.com/climb-like-a-supple-leopard-mobility-with-kelly-starrett/ , are you hangboarding using repeaters or single heavy hangs, etc.? Also, where is @camz? That guy apparently pulls V10 with a100kg body. Amazing! Yes i do plan a follow up to this - several questions I'd like to ask of all of you. Just got home from our league track meet and leave to go see the newest grandson early in the morning so it will have to be next week. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 All right - to follow up. What is you best route grade climbed - on lead and on TR? Do you routinely train specifically for climbing? Have you found much carry over from your Grip Sport work to climbing? If so which grip exercises do you find the most value in "for climbing"? For Cracks - and for Face Climbing? I came to the GB all those years ago to help with my rock climbing and have been underwhelmed with the GripBoard and it's appeal to climbers - do you think a section devoted to grip training specifically FOR CLIMBING would be utilized here on the board? Are there enough people here interested to make it worthwhile do you think? I'll give my thought after I see if there is any interest at all on the matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 19 minutes ago, WestSlope said: What is you best route grade climbed - on lead and on TR? Sport: 12c, trad: 11c, boulder V8 (I was at those levels about three years ago - I'm weaker now) Do you routinely train specifically for climbing? I use the Anderson brother's program, but always jump off the wagon and "just climb" until I feel the need to power up with hangboarding and campusing. If I'm ambitious enough to follow with 4x4's on my garage wall I'll usually peak nicely. Have you found much carry over from your Grip Sport work to climbing? I found this site while search for a way to improve my pinch. I was hurting my shoulders hanging from my Rock Prodigy board pinches even after taking 50 lbs off to complete 4x8sec repeaters. The last time I got on those pinches I took no weight off and hung for nearly 30 sec. I notice this improvement in my pinching power on my garage wall, but have not yet encountered a move on rock where I have been able to put it to the test. If so which grip exercises do you find the most value in "for climbing"? For Cracks - and for Face Climbing? It feels like my time that I have stolen from training for climbing has detrained my crimp and increased my pinch. I am struggling with some of my well rehersed crimpy warm ups at my nearby boulder pile as a result. It seems like holds with the 2" or 2 1/2" v-bar head gives me that cramped and pumped feel of a long hand crack. Knowing whether or not it will help with hand cracks will have to wait until I get up to Vedauwoo or Independence Pass this summer. I came to the GB all those years ago to help with my rock climbing and have been underwhelmed with the GripBoard and it's appeal to climbers - do you think a section devoted to grip training specifically FOR CLIMBING would be utilized here on the board? Are there enough people here interested to make it worthwhile do you think? I'm pretty new to the gripsport type of training, but it doesn't seem to hold the secret to success in the climbing world. I'm finding it an engaging hobby in it's own right and at the moment I don't need more out of it. I would think a section devoted to training for climbing could be helpful for people like myself who would like to hang on to their climbing gains while focusing on the gripsport training. With a couple tweaks - I could have written this myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderbrew Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 What is you best route grade climbed - on lead and on TR? I do not really lead climb that much and never projected a climb on rope (although strangely my partner and I won 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell last year haha). I have climbed 5.13c on lead (I would like to begin sport climbing more seriously, because I know I m fully capable of climbing 5.14). I have bouldered V13, and I have never tried anything harder than 5.9 on trad Do you routinely train specifically for climbing? When I was at my strongest (doing about 10 one arm pullups, and could do a one arm on my doorframe) I did campus rungs and one arm deadhangs with weight every Monday and Friday, Wednesday I did a power endurance workout pretty similar to 4x4's, and on the weekends I projected hard boulders with friends. Have you found much carry over from your Grip Sport work to climbing? Absolutely! I find my thickbar strength is pretty good, my gripper strength is not bad, but my pinching ability is poor. Rock climbing training requires my to have extremely strong finger TIPS in the open/half crimp position. The 2HP is like something I never trained in climbing, so I still feel like a beginner in the pinch category. Also, I should mention that when I started training grip in January, I thought that my gripper strength would increase dramatically like newbie gains typically do, however I have remained pretty much the same as the first time I tried a hand gripper. If so which grip exercises do you find the most value in "for climbing"? For Cracks - and for Face Climbing? Ehh Idk on this one. I have gotten weaker in climbing since I started grip training. Gripsport is fun, but you have to bulk up a bit for it (to succeed at lifts like the axle......) and there are few implements that mimic the intense fingertip openhand strength required in climbing. I have found that my best tips tester pulls came when I was climbing my best, and since I began 2HP training, my thumb strength has improved and I feel slightly more secure on narrow pinches. I was never a "weekend warrior" I trained climbing and only climbing, which involved lots of training and strict dieting to remain lean to maximize the strength to weight ratio. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderbrew Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 3 minutes ago, Boulderbrew said: Have you found much carry over from your Grip Sport work to climbing? Absolutely! I find my thickbar strength is pretty good, my gripper strength is not bad, but my pinching ability is poor. I answered this vice verca, but you get the point. Climbing helped my grip, but I have yet to feel any substantial increase from grip training to climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 On 5/17/2017 at 7:21 AM, Boulderbrew said: I answered this vice verca, but you get the point. Climbing helped my grip, but I have yet to feel any substantial increase from grip training to climbing What did you weigh when you climbed at your best - and when you were at your best for Grip Sport? Doesn't seem to be all that many climbers who are into grip sport? I actually believe Grip hurt me badly as a climber - not because it is inherently bad for climbing but because I spent time training my grip when I should have been off climbing or doing ARC or hangboard work. But to be honest I don't think the normal Grip training we do here on the GB has much carry over to climbing - but probably is good for balance and injury prevention - plus what we do is much better than anything we do climbing for pinch strength. I also allowed myself to gain weight - it was muscle but it still hurt my climbing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderbrew Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 2 hours ago, climber511 said: What did you weigh when you climbed at your best - and when you were at your best for Grip Sport? Doesn't seem to be all that many climbers who are into grip sport? I actually believe Grip hurt me badly as a climber. When I was climbing my strongest I was about 165. I just started training grip in January, but have already put in some weight. I am nearly 180 now. you are right on about the time spent training too. I'm sure that if In a perfect world we had adequate time to train both equally, grip would not detract from climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminal Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Maybe this should be a new topic but... To flip things around, and in light of Tanner's excellent performance at Nationals, what methodologies from climbing training do you feel have something to offer grip sport training? I have been listening to Eric Horst's Training For Climbing Podcast and he presents some intriguing methodologies f.e. doing hangboard sets involving 7 seconds of hanging and 53 seconds of rest which seems like they could be quite useful. I know that Adam Glass has employed a lot of hanging in his training from all kinds of implements (I think even before he was so calisthenics focused as he is right now). Experiences to talk about? Thoughts? Oh and congratulations @Boulderbrew Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderbrew Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Thanks man! I have found most success doing hangboard work and one arm dead hangs about 75-85% max for fairly low reps every Monday and Friday. Wednesday I do 4x4s or anther power endurance variation. On the weekend I project hard boulders with friends. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terminal Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 On 2017-06-09 at 0:19 AM, Boulderbrew said: Thanks man! I have found most success doing hangboard work and one arm dead hangs about 75-85% max for fairly low reps every Monday and Friday. Wednesday I do 4x4s or anther power endurance variation. On the weekend I project hard boulders with friends. Tanner, Have you ever tried to apply these same protocols to training with grip implements i.e. hanging from suspended implements for similar times and recoveries? Best, Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderbrew Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 5 hours ago, terminal said: Tanner, Have you ever tried to apply these same protocols to training with grip implements i.e. hanging from suspended implements for similar times and recoveries? Best, Al I am still pretty new to group training, but I have applied this concept of high volume days, and low volume days to training on rolling handles (and plan to do so with the flask). I don't hang from the implements though, I pull from the ground 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camz Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 I started trad climbing back in 1991 and bouldering around 1994, which is my preferred discipline. I also did some sport, but never had the ambition to project something on my limit with a rope. So my hardest grades are sport/trad 5.12 and bouldering V10. My training in the beginning was bouldering outside as much as possible and later (as I moved to another city far away from the next crag) I started hangboarding and campusboarding. As life changed at some point, I couldn't finde the time anymore to go climbing outside on a regular basis, so I started shortsteelbending and some other oldtime strongman stuff. I think THIS improved my bouldering in some points. Suddenly I could squeeze holds in awkward positions, which wasn't the case before. Being way too heavy for a boulderer had some advantages for the gripsport stuff I did. As also mentioned by @Boulderbrew I think the open hand strength from bouldering has a good carryover to the thickbar events. I could lift the INCH without any preparation the first time I tried and lifted around 85kg on the Rolling Thunder the day I got it in the mail. And last saturday I came in fourth in the German Gripchampionchips after a 2 months bouldering roadtrip without any preparation for the events. Pretty happy about the result, becaus it was a really strong crowd and I only knew the hub from before. As others said before, I got weaker in bouldering, because of the time spent for bending horseshoes and doing other addicting things. *lol* All the best! Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbsuM- Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Absum-Brandon. I haven't rock climbed lately just ropes and trees. All the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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