A Few Questions

[Justin Matney]

Answers to all the questions I'm about to ask are probably out there somewhere, so forgive me in advance for redundancy. A lot of links in the pinned threads are broken now though. EJ if you wanna point me in the right direction and then delete the thread I'm fine with that.

So I have some stock lying around from a few years ago, and decided to ease back into it last week. I say "ease" because I did it all wrong last time. No semblance of programming, poor technique, etc. 3/16" and 1/4" round CRS is what I'm dealing with. I cut the 3/16 into 5"-7" pieces and it folds up like a coathanger. I don't even bother with wraps on 3/16, so everything up to 5" 3/16 is barehand and I don't even know if it's a worthwhile size. Is this a diameter that people utilize, or a waste of time?

The 1/4" I cut into 7" pieces, and a few 6" pieces. 7" 1/4 round CRS seems to be the bending equivalent of a COC #2 for me--something I can get a pretty good amount of volume with but good resistance. I think 5.5 or 6" 1/4 is the best I've done with 1 Ironmind wrap, which is the Blue Nail equivalent, right?

I live walking distance from a steel supplier. So I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on progressions past 5-6" 1/4 round CRS. Going from 1/4" anything to 5/16" anything is pretty much a no go, right? I know that graded bolts play a big part in bridging this massive gap. Are these just the kind you would find at Lowe's?

I've also heard talk of different size drill rod being used. Is there a progression chart out there that places it in a bending context?

Ironmind pads: wash them or not?

I know this is a lot. Thanks to anyone who answers in advance, and sorry if this is too redundant.

[Kurt Lane]

Look into Grade 5 Bolts and Grade 8 Bolts. Thats what i used in between 1/4'' and the red nail when I was bending a decade ago.

[Kurt Lane]

Also 5/16'' HRS is a tad easier then CRS and the red nail. But Grade 5 bolts then Grade 8 then 5/16'' HRS and also using the #4 and doing chest crushes all helped me do the red nail. I believe I was the youngest ever to bend it at the time at 17. Being overall strong in the bench,dips and just pressing strength helped a lot to back then.

[JoshW]

Go on the fbbc website and email andrew, he can direct you on beginner stock.

Get lots of 1/4" stock crs and stainless steel and practice. Watch some of the more advanced benders with their technique, copy and practice.

You can start on drill rod the 0-1 drill rod goes up alphabetically from A and upwards. Your M and N drill rod will be a good stepping stone to the red nail and the A to H drill rod is good for beginners. I washed my battlefield wraps recently to soften them up otherwise they get quite difficult to wrap with!

Good luck

[Andrew P]

Without getting into the Drill rod or bolts it would look someting like this.

1/4" Round

1/4" Hex Stock

1/4" Square stock

5/16" HRS

5/16" CRS

Stainless will be about a 10 to 20% harder bend and will get harder as you get into the crushdown.

Hex will be a little bit harder then where your at but the squares a jump in difficulty and is the most bang for your buck at this point.

[anwnate]

If you decide to go the DR route, there are a few advantages...

Using the 0-1DR allows you to make incremental advancements in diameter.

It doesn't vary all that much either. (for me anyway)

0-1 DR is pretty reasonable pricewise.

If you got 5 (3') bars each of J,K,L and M and cut them down to 7"...

you'd have 140 bars (35per diameter) at your door in 2-3 days for $90 (shipping included).

https://store.nexternal.com/toolanddie/o1-drill-rod-oil-hardening-tool-steel-oilcrat-pm-p113.aspx

I wouldn't advise getting anything smaller than "J" (considering what you've bent).

IM pads...I've washed them with no ill effects.

The only progression chart I know of, is temporarily down...but can be found here... http://www.az-grip.com/index.php

[acorn]

Nate, I was not aware that page was down from the hosting move still. An alternate for the same data is however: www.Gripratings.Com

[Justin Matney]

Thanks for the response everyone.

[EJ Livesey]

First things first.

What's your Goal?

How serious are you willing to take this?

Are you just looking to have fun and build strength, will you be gripping as well or are you goal motivated?

These three questions will lead you in the correct direction on what pads, size stock and regiment you need.

[Justin Matney]

First things first.

What's your Goal?

How serious are you willing to take this?

Are you just looking to have fun and build strength, will you be gripping as well or are you goal motivated?

These three questions will lead you in the correct direction on what pads, size stock and regiment you need.

I want to bend a red nail with consistency under cert conditions. Beyond that we will see. I feel like I have the potential to bend a red with proper programming and technique.

Will probably phase out grippers as bending ramps up. If what you say is true--that you closed the MM1 strictly from bending carryover, no grip training--then my time will probably be better spent bending steel anyway.

I have a feeling that the problems I've encountered with gripper training will be resolved through bending (muscular imbalance, etc).

I plan to approach it with the same seriousness as I do lifting and grip--with a goal in mind. Having said that I will not take the risks that you and others have. I can't afford serious injury. Just a personal decision. I approach lifting and grip with the same caution now-- if it's not going to lead to me being stronger and healthier, I'm not going to do it. I'm strong but I'm also realistic--I know I'm not you or Gazza.

I want to get as strong as I can get in a healthy, logical manner.

[EJ Livesey]

That's a great answer. So here's what I would do:

Bend strictly in IMPs. Only IMPs. Use the same pair, beat them up and break them in. Cut everything to 7". DO NOT GO UNDER 7". The key here will be volume work to build a strong base and correct the muscle imbalances. While doing this you will also strengthen your wrists and grip. The sooner you can bend without the aid of rubber bands the better for your grip strength.

What is your base strength right now. Where are you bending wise?

And I have honestly never done any type of grip work. The first time I closed the #3 I held it backwards. You can see it in the video. Don't forget, the injuries and strength will carry over.

Edited September 15, 2015 by EJ Livesey

[Justin Matney]

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

As far as base strength, I can bend half a dozen or so 7" 1/4 between sets of squats and presses before my pulls start to suffer.

[JoshW]

I look forward to having another bender to motivate me to bigger bends!

[acorn]

Nate, I was not aware that page was down from the hosting move still. An alternate for the same data is however: www.Gripratings.Com

Ok, fixed the AZ-grip steel ratings page. Still recommend using the gripratings page instead though as my intention is eventually to remove the ratings from the az-grip page. gripratings direct link for steel rating is: http://www.gripratings.com/index.php?id=2

- Aaron

[Justin Matney]

Thanks Aaron, that's exactly what I was looking for.

[JHenze646]

Do you have any other local benders?

Bending with someone is priceless. My travels haven't brought me your way yet but if you are ever near Pittsburgh, it always good to meet up with other benders/gripsters.

[Justin Matney]

Not that I know of. I about 2.5 hrs from Columbus though, seems to be no shortage of grip an bending in that vicinity, so training days here and there are feasible.

[Justin Matney]

I've been in contact with a salesman at the local steel manufacturer. They do not stock 12L14 steel, but they do have 1018. I guess this will have to suffice. Still just getting my feet wet as to the particulars of steel.

Or I could just order some legit stock from FBBC and IM.

[bencrush]

I cut the 3/16 into 5"-7" pieces and it folds up like a coathanger. I don't even bother with wraps on 3/16, so everything up to 5" 3/16 is barehand and I don't even know if it's a worthwhile size. Is this a diameter that people utilize, or a waste of time?

There is no use at all in bending 3/16" CRS for a guy at your strength level. Unless you are going to work on barehand bending.

[bencrush]

I've been in contact with a salesman at the local steel manufacturer. They do not stock 12L14 steel, but they do have 1018. I guess this will have to suffice. Still just getting my feet wet as to the particulars of steel.

Or I could just order some legit stock from FBBC and IM.

I like the FBBC and IronMind stock. Have bent a ton of both suppliers. I have not bent the Ninja Nails, because I had retired from bending by the time they came out. But they seem very well priced for the sizes and the finish it awesome. Not going to rip any leathers or IMPs on jagged burrs with those finely polished bars. They come in 5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, and 9mm. They would surely make good stepping stones between the IronMind Green, Yellow, and Red.

[EJ Livesey]

I've been in contact with a salesman at the local steel manufacturer. They do not stock 12L14 steel, but they do have 1018. I guess this will have to suffice. Still just getting my feet wet as to the particulars of steel.

Or I could just order some legit stock from FBBC and IM.

1018 is very hard and more expensive than "normal" CRS (12L14). So in terms of getting stronger or working technique 1018 is good but not great, SS from fastenal wasn't much more so I picked that up instead in 6 foot sticks. I would definitely look into drill rod. It comes in every and any diameter you can think of, the O-1 is super safe to bend, it's very cheap and it fights back like SS but is more consistent. FBBC sells it or you can go here http://www.toolanddie.com/~smgr2/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=T

[climber511]

Don't be afraid to get some Hot Roll Steel either - yes it varies (a lot) but that can be a good thing. But keep everything separate and labeled - throwing everything in all together can make things a mess (like after i spilled my nicely divided box on the floor . Call around to different steel retailers also - it's worth driving some to get just what you want for progressions. Big jumps make training harder.

[bencrush]

Don't be afraid to get some Hot Roll Steel either - yes it varies (a lot) but that can be a good thing. But keep everything separate and labeled - throwing everything in all together can make things a mess (like after i spilled my nicely divided box on the floor . Call around to different steel retailers also - it's worth driving some to get just what you want for progressions. Big jumps make training harder.

Great advice! I used to label my bars (HRS and CRS) for this exact scenario.

[Justin Matney]

I've been in contact with a salesman at the local steel manufacturer. They do not stock 12L14 steel, but they do have 1018. I guess this will have to suffice. Still just getting my feet wet as to the particulars of steel.

Or I could just order some legit stock from FBBC and IM.

1018 is very hard and more expensive than "normal" CRS (12L14). So in terms of getting stronger or working technique 1018 is good but not great, SS from fastenal wasn't much more so I picked that up instead in 6 foot sticks. I would definitely look into drill rod. It comes in every and any diameter you can think of, the O-1 is super safe to bend, it's very cheap and it fights back like SS but is more consistent. FBBC sells it or you can go here http://www.toolanddie.com/~smgr2/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=T

Thanks, I didn't know that.

I got ahold of some SS yesterday, and I believe Grainger carries drill rod. I got an awesome deal on a bunch of red nails yesterday as well, so things are looking up.