JaredWith1R Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 My second steel delivery arrived from McMaster Carr. Planning on working through the O-1 drill rod alphabet at 6" lengths. Started off with 5/16" and A from my last delivery, and working with A, D, G and I after that. Judging on how difficult it was to cut the I rod with 12" bolt cutters, I have a feeling it's going to be quite the bend for me. (current PR is an IM Blue nail DO in doubles). My goal is to get a good base of strength and technique on the alphabet before I switch my training to a Red Nail Cert. I enjoy having the increments to track progress when just starting out. Next stop, the Iron Grips! Once I get around to recording my bends, they will be posted as well. Great community! http://imgur.com/zbXbIVo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Cabrera Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 No doubles for now brother, its a faster progression than you might think, just gotta accept a big ouch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredWith1R Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 No doubles for now brother, its a faster progression than you might think, just gotta accept a big ouch! You got it, man. Is there an ideal wrapping style to start off with? I usually wrap about 1.5" in from the ends, but I know there are a few styles. No need to try wraps touching, I assume. Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Goguen Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 I agree with jcab for the most part. I do about 80-90% of my bending in IMP's and from time to ill try some doubles. The Rednail cert only allows for IMP's so if that's what you want then you need to train for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchapman Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 If you want to train for the Red, use 7" instead of 6" lengths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredWith1R Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 If you want to train for the Red, use 7" instead of 6" lengths. Once I switch to Cert training mode, I'll definitely go with 7". Until then, I like not wasting material, and 6 x 6" pieces per 3 ft of stock is very nice. How steep of a learning curve is there going from 6" to 7"? Is it like a totally different sport? Thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Cabrera Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 I wrap at 1.75"(after a ton of experimenting), some wrap at 2". Watch Sean Cashman he has great bending instruction on the youtube, wrapping DO reverse etc, also i believe Tommy Jennings made a vid on wrapping, thats how i got serious about the wrapping (Mike harrased me on the importance of a tight wrap) Tommy and Sean plz post your links brothers! These guys will really appreciate em, as i sure do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Cabrera Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Oh and wraps touching for reverse and double under, if youre testing your wrist strength in an isolated fashion ,all my wrist bending training is wraps touching, and i consider imps my doubles for that. Just me though, i gotta show off with my fellow contractors after all lmao! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ Livesey Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 The transition from 6" to 7" is sometimes tough for guys due to the flexibility and different hand position. However the transition from 7" to 6" I've found easier on everything but the crush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredWith1R Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 The transition from 6" to 7" is sometimes tough for guys due to the flexibility and different hand position. However the transition from 7" to 6" I've found easier on everything but the crush. I'm also noticing a problem with my 6" plan. I just knocked off G size (~340#) and the next stock I bought is I size (430#), which is above Red Nail weight. I need to find a few more steps in between. Maybe 17/64" or H (H has no weight rating I can find). Or looks like I have to switch to 7" a little sooner than expected! Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ Livesey Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 The big problem here is you cannot compare 6" ratings to 7" ratings. Itike apples and oranges. They are different animals as you will soon see. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony C. Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 The transition from 6" to 7" is sometimes tough for guys due to the flexibility and different hand position. However the transition from 7" to 6" I've found easier on everything but the crush. I'm also noticing a problem with my 6" plan. I just knocked off G size (~340#) and the next stock I bought is I size (430#), which is above Red Nail weight. I need to find a few more steps in between. Maybe 17/64" or H (H has no weight rating I can find). Or looks like I have to switch to 7" a little sooner than expected! Thanks for the info. Isn't G rated at around 275? Correct me if I'm wrong, please. I thought the J was rated at 340. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared Goguen Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 The transition from 6" to 7" is sometimes tough for guys due to the flexibility and different hand position. However the transition from 7" to 6" I've found easier on everything but the crush. I'm also noticing a problem with my 6" plan. I just knocked off G size (~340#) and the next stock I bought is I size (430#), which is above Red Nail weight. I need to find a few more steps in between. Maybe 17/64" or H (H has no weight rating I can find). Or looks like I have to switch to 7" a little sooner than expected! Thanks for the info. Isn't G rated at around 275? Correct me if I'm wrong, please. I thought the J was rated at 340. I feel like you are correct but he is talking about bending 6" I think which on AZgrip at least is listed as 340. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredWith1R Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 The transition from 6" to 7" is sometimes tough for guys due to the flexibility and different hand position. However the transition from 7" to 6" I've found easier on everything but the crush. I'm also noticing a problem with my 6" plan. I just knocked off G size (~340#) and the next stock I bought is I size (430#), which is above Red Nail weight. I need to find a few more steps in between. Maybe 17/64" or H (H has no weight rating I can find). Or looks like I have to switch to 7" a little sooner than expected! Thanks for the info. Isn't G rated at around 275? Correct me if I'm wrong, please. I thought the J was rated at 340. I feel like you are correct but he is talking about bending 6" I think which on AZgrip at least is listed as 340. Indeed I am. Based on AZgrip, which is the best source I have currently, G is rated at 6" - 340# and 7" - 275#. J is rated at 6" - 450# and 7" - 340#, so you would be correct on that, as well, Anthony. I would love to build my own test rig eventually, since I am sure the weights change from batch to batch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Cabrera Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Yup it always varies fellas, drill rod is consistent but it does vary, also the ends of any given bar will be a bit tougher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony C. Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Gotcha. Boy, I didn't realize the extra inch mattered so much (that's what she said) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Cabrera Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Just the tip lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Cabrera Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 But seriously, the ends are tougher, when i was chopping up my own drill rod i would work out towards the end of the bar, always label your steel by individual bars, and that will handle the variance factor, ie bar 1 was easy bar two is difficult if you mix em up youll be frustrated, i did it a few times, drove me freakkn nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredWith1R Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 But seriously, the ends are tougher, when i was chopping up my own drill rod i would work out towards the end of the bar, always label your steel by individual bars, and that will handle the variance factor, ie bar 1 was easy bar two is difficult if you mix em up youll be frustrated, i did it a few times, drove me freakkn nuts. Currently, I am getting 3ft stock from McMaster and chopping them up with bolt cutters. I bind them up in the groups of 6 they are cut into, so I can keep the stock consistent. I should start labeling them by section I suppose. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Cabrera Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 No, not that specific, i meant be mindful of it when something seems a bit more resistant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaredWith1R Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 No, not that specific, i meant be mindful of it when something seems a bit more resistant Ah fair enough. Makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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