prw166 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I have the Diesel Crew bending book. In it they lay out the progression of nails, bolts, and Ironmind nails. It has the yellow and blue nails harder than 60d dull and bright. I have found the opposite to be true. I have no troubles with the yellow and blue, but the bright 60d I have are much tougher. Did I just get some really tough 60d nails or have others found this to be true. I bend using a reverse grip if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mephistopholes Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Different companies can produce 60ds of varying difficulty. They can also very just from batch to batch when made by the same company. So you probably just got some exceptionally tough nails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshW Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I have found that my dull 60D nails are weaker than my bright stainless 60D's and are around blue nail level for me anyways. I also bend reverse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buccos1 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 I have the Diesel Crew bending book. In it they lay out the progression of nails, bolts, and Ironmind nails. It has the yellow and blue nails harder than 60d dull and bright. I have found the opposite to be true. I have no troubles with the yellow and blue, but the bright 60d I have are much tougher. Did I just get some really tough 60d nails or have others found this to be true. I bend using a reverse grip if it helps. 60d nails are all over the place. But, as far as progression goes, Yellows/Blues/60ds are all in the same ballpark, and interchangeable. Every once-in-awhile, you'll come across a mutant 60d, which will be harder than a similar dimension grade 5. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autolupus Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 It may also be your strength levels, these vary as much if not more than the steel!Sometimes I find a piece of steel will bend like butter but other times it won't budge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ Livesey Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Not all CRS is the same. 12L14, 1018 and 1080 are the most popular. I have found the shinier the steel the tougher. I don't know if it's because if the carbon or lead content in the steel. But shiny = tough 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshW Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Not all CRS is the same. 12L14, 1018 and 1080 are the most popular. I have found the shinier the steel the tougher. I don't know if it's because if the carbon or lead content in the steel. But shiny = tough I have found this aswell maybe only 15% stronger though. specially the kink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricMilfeld Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 It's sort of a case of two moving targets. Both the IM stock and 60D nails, even within a specific brand, vary. That being said, the Blue nail is generally a rather easy 60D nail. One 60D nail I calibrated was actually as tough as a grade 8 bolt! Additionally, the thickness of 60D nails will vary, as will the length. They are not made to tight tolerances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ Livesey Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I know the shiny Canadian 60d's I think the brand is savaco or savco, something like that was stupid hard. But for me it's tough to put an actual percentage on how much harder they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acorn Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 You could also check out gripratings for some progression ideas. http://www.gripratings.com/index.php?id=2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoggoth Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 The Tree Island brand nails are the toughest I've found. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_wigren Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I don't think there is any correlation between shinyness and hardness. My past experience had been that the duller, the harder. In particularly the dull Tree Island spike's and the old Sivaco's. But then Nick Rosendaul sent me some shiny 10x3/8 spikes, which I think might have been from Sivaco. They were stupid hard to brace bend! Comparable to a hard Tree Island spike at 6x3/8 I would say. Or two Griprite 10x3/8 taped together. It was so hard for its size that I was actually a bit afraid that it would snap during the bend. But luckily it didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Sharkey Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Its like the old gang is back together again 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoggoth Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I tried a reverse the other day and it hurt like hell. Back to page one lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim71 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I much agree with David and Eric's posts. The easiest bastards I ever had were actually pretty shiny. Only calibrated at 380 or 385. The crazy tough 60d nail that Eric is referring to - I believe anyway - is the Sivaco that I sent him. Calibrated at 480 pounds. I've also had some that were 445, 385 and so on. I've had dull ones that are tough and bright ones that are tough and so on. I've found no direct correlation and the same with galvanized or zinc plated. I've had both that were easy and both that were hard. I also had some Sivaco spikes like David is referring to and I actually did have a batch of 10 inchers that snapped on the crush. So crazy hard that I sent a few out and some didn't even get a good kink in it. I've never seen tree island 60d nails but the 70d nails from them were tough ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHenze646 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Gentlemen, what are your thought on Stainless and its fit in the bending progression? I have heard or read that it has an easier kink but a harder crush than comparable steel. Does this hold to be true? Also does any one have a link explaining or showing the calibration process? I would love to know more. Thank you, Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJ Livesey Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Stainless is a great learning tool. It was the key to my strength. It's all I bent because I had a cheap and reliable hook- up. Stainless is an all around harder steel than crs and hrs. I have yet to find SS that has an easier kink than crs. Mike Krahling had a good how- to on the calibration method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Cashman Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Gentlemen, what are your thought on Stainless and its fit in the bending progression? I have heard or read that it has an easier kink but a harder crush than comparable steel. Does this hold to be true? Also does any one have a link explaining or showing the calibration process? I would love to know more. Thank you, Josh I have found stainless steel to be much harder than CRS throughout the whole bend. Once I started bending stainless and drill rod my bending took off. I pretty much stuck with CRS and HRS till I was bending Reds. After that I really needed Stainless and Drill Rod to progress further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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