Jones1874 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 last week i started to have some knuckle pain, now my knuckles are starting to click. i say click, its more of a 'clonk'. i think i may have done too much too soon, but i didnt do all that much in a session and i was lifting in a day on - 2 days off fashion. im going to rest for atleast 2 weeks and see how it goes. when i get back to it im planning on training the hands twice a week, just wondering what sort of routine / exercises should i be doing? i was thinking of doing block lifts since they stress the whole hands more than grippers, but with a light weight and holds for 30 - 60 seconds. what do you think? or would you recommend something else? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rampage jackson Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) if you talk about tendons strength try alexander zass training with chains look in google alexander zass Edited February 17, 2012 by Rampage jackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 A climber's hangboard or fingerboard hands down. That's what they were designed for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jones1874 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 A climber's hangboard or fingerboard hands down. That's what they were designed for. just looked at some pictures on google. seems like the next best option would be to train with eagle loops, since your gripping in a similar way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 A climber's hangboard or fingerboard hands down. That's what they were designed for. just looked at some pictures on google. seems like the next best option would be to train with eagle loops, since your gripping in a similar way. you can't hold on with the very tips of your fingers with eagle loops. At best you only get the first finger joint involved. if you want strong tendons throughout the fingers to the elbow you have to train all the joints. being able to apply max power to the tips of you fingers is more valuable than many think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jones1874 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 A climber's hangboard or fingerboard hands down. That's what they were designed for. just looked at some pictures on google. seems like the next best option would be to train with eagle loops, since your gripping in a similar way. you can't hold on with the very tips of your fingers with eagle loops. At best you only get the first finger joint involved. if you want strong tendons throughout the fingers to the elbow you have to train all the joints. being able to apply max power to the tips of you fingers is more valuable than many think. i see what you mean, but surely their gonna help to some degree? i definately agree with what your saying though, about being able to apply max pressure to the finger tips being overlooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 A climber's hangboard or fingerboard hands down. That's what they were designed for. just looked at some pictures on google. seems like the next best option would be to train with eagle loops, since your gripping in a similar way. you can't hold on with the very tips of your fingers with eagle loops. At best you only get the first finger joint involved. if you want strong tendons throughout the fingers to the elbow you have to train all the joints. being able to apply max power to the tips of you fingers is more valuable than many think. i see what you mean, but surely their gonna help to some degree? i definately agree with what your saying though, about being able to apply max pressure to the finger tips being overlooked. I'm sure they help to some degree but you're after tendon strengthening the fingerboard is gold. Don't forget you have many "pulleys" in the fingers which are tendons that are like rubber bands around the main finger tendons. if these are weak they cause too much flexing in the main tendons so power is lost in the movement and also they can pop or tear open causing serious harm to grip strength. Climbers typically pop these, well a typical hand injury anyways, so they spend lots of time slowly building up tendon strength. Tendons take ~6 weeks to heal from big stresses, unlike muscles which is just a few days. They take a very long time to get to a desired level but once there they stay strong all the way to the grave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macaz Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 My 2c. Listen to Daniel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 also ibuprofin and ice will be your best friend. ibuprofin prior to workout and ice 30 min after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jones1874 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 My 2c. Listen to Daniel. haha will do. Daniel knows his stuff fair play. ive seen some of his videos aswell, so i know hes talking sense. Daniel, what sort of volume would you recommend with something like the fingerboard? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jones1874 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) also ibuprofin and ice will be your best friend. ibuprofin prior to workout and ice 30 min after. i cant take ibruprofin because i have athsma, and why ice? i spend most of my time trying to keep my hands warm! EDIT: forgot to mention that i take x4 1000mg of fish oil and Animal Flex for my joints. Edited February 17, 2012 by alexjones234 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 The over riding thing you have to remember about tendons is the time factor. Even with the perfect training program and recovery - tendons gain in strength very slowly. Some of the best information on forearm, hand, and finger strength comes from the climbing world - something most grip guys never bother to read or study. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jones1874 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 The over riding thing you have to remember about tendons is the time factor. Even with the perfect training program and recovery - tendons gain in strength very slowly. Some of the best information on forearm, hand, and finger strength comes from the climbing world - something most grip guys never bother to read or study. sounds about right. im just gonna have to lay off for a good month first, then see how they feel before getting back into it. im probably gonna stick to doing grip twice a week and then go from there. im planning on doing lots of active recovery to. hand baths, rice bucket, wear gloves etc. basically anything i can do to help myself. i think its best that i back off now while im still in the early stages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 My 2c. Listen to Daniel. haha will do. Daniel knows his stuff fair play. ive seen some of his videos aswell, so i know hes talking sense. Daniel, what sort of volume would you recommend with something like the fingerboard? Thanks. I bought a Metolius Simulator board and just used the generic workout it had printed on the directions and their website. Each manufacturer has a program you can model and use. It's mostly pullups and hangs so get ready to get good at that too. Mix in ab work with the pullups and hangs to get hitting the body while hitting the grip. After you're done the program for a while you can modify it to challenge yourself some more. Well if you can take anti-inflammation of any sort that will reduce swelling before it starts because you are guarenteed to have swollen fingers. The ice is for after to get that swelling down. That's the best thing one can do after a wicked climbing or fingerboard session. I used to get to work and my gloves didn't fit. 30 minutes of icing really helped drop the swellling and get the fingers to not be in so much pain. Chris Rice is spot on too. I'm sure he has a huge list of resources he could point you at if you needed more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwwm Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Daniel, and Climber511 - can you guys point us to any references on this? I'd like to read more, and it sounds like you guys have a lot of brain cycles in on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) I have been recommending this book for years now - and not just to climbers but for all grip athletes. Performance Rock Climbing by Goodard and Neumann. One of the best training books out there PERIOD. I doubt there is anyone on this board that can't learn "something" from it. A hidden gem of a training book if I ever saw one. It really is that good. There's lot of others but that's the best. I just checked Amazon - $15 buys it for you. Edited February 18, 2012 by climber511 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Everyone can't be as lucky as Danial and climb at a gym run by one of the best climbers in the world. It would be nice to talk training with him I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Everyone can't be as lucky as Danial and climb at a gym run by one of the best climbers in the world. It would be nice to talk training with him I'm sure. Hans is awesome. He does a "train for climbing" class each week which is killer, plus a crack climbing class one occasion. I have to drive 30 minutes to my gym so I simply added the fingerboard and climbing grips to my garage and on the existing shelving. Super easy to do and now I get my favorite climbing in whenever I want, roof climbing. an old dieselcrew challenge another dieselcrew challenge showing the hangboard. another dieselcrew challenge which shows more ways to play with grips http://www.youtube.c...bed/Sa7kQM4Sp6g Daniel, and Climber511 - can you guys point us to any references on this? I'd like to read more, and it sounds like you guys have a lot of brain cycles in on this. to be honest I learned everything on the go. just trying all sorts of new things and seeing how the body responded so unfortunately I can only speak of experience. Chris is the resource king on the subject. Edited February 18, 2012 by daniel reinard 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Everyone can't be as lucky as Danial and climb at a gym run by one of the best climbers in the world. It would be nice to talk training with him I'm sure. Hans is awesome. He does a "train for climbing" class each week which is killer, plus a crack climbing class one occasion. I have to drive 30 minutes to my gym so I simply added the fingerboard and climbing grips to my garage and on the existing shelving. Super easy to do and now I get my favorite climbing in whenever I want, roof climbing. an old dieselcrew challenge another dieselcrew challenge showing the hangboard. Daniel, and Climber511 - can you guys point us to any references on this? I'd like to read more, and it sounds like you guys have a lot of brain cycles in on this. to be honest I learned everything on the go. just trying all sorts of new things and seeing how the body responded so unfortunately I can only speak of experience. Chris is the resource king on the subject. Talk about learning on the go Danial - I'll have to tell you the story of my first day lead climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Talk about learning on the go Danial - I'll have to tell you the story of my first day lead climbing. I will remember that for Nationals, I gotta hear it. I just wanted to climb and the drive was too much at times. This way I was able to get strong when i could then prove it on the rocks or gym comps when I had the chance. i watched a ton of youtube vids of people training. That really helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwwm Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Daniel - I'm speechless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jones1874 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) I have been recommending this book for years now - and not just to climbers but for all grip athletes. Performance Rock Climbing by Goodard and Neumann. One of the best training books out there PERIOD. I doubt there is anyone on this board that can't learn "something" from it. A hidden gem of a training book if I ever saw one. It really is that good. There's lot of others but that's the best. I just checked Amazon - $15 buys it for you. Just bought this on amazon.co.uk for £6.04, roughly $10. its used, but im not worried about the covers as much as i am the info. thanks for mentioning this book. if i can take something away from reading this (no doubt i will) its only going to benefit me in the long run. and instead of using a fingerboard (because i cant really afford one right now, could i use something like this instead? @ the 3:00 mark or even the claw curl by ironmind? Thanks. Edited February 18, 2012 by alexjones234 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 You can easily make a home made "fingerboard" by screwing different thickness wooden strips up after rounding the edges some. Use hard woods over pine on the thin stuff and pre drill the screw holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Yes google "campus boards". They are basically slats of wood you hang from. You can make any depth you want or give them an incut edge for better grip. These really hit the hands well. The above video will help some but time under tension is better so hangs or pullups will be more benefitial, and wood bits are super cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamsean11 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Daniel, and Climber511 - can you guys point us to any references on this? I'd like to read more, and it sounds like you guys have a lot of brain cycles in on this. If you go to the Metolius Climbing website, they actually have sample training charts for different levels of training. I have climbed off and on for over 16 years and I can't agree more, that hangboards work wonders on hand and forearm strength, as daniel stated above. It's also different than grippers in respect that it is functional hand strength that transfers to everything.One thing though, stay away from high reps on hangboards.(150+/wk) I've seen lots of guys get tennis elbow or minor tendonitis from being locked into a fixed motion pullup. Check out Rock Rings from Metolius if you're interested in a combination grip/pullup setup. Edited February 18, 2012 by iamsean11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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