Cannon Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Are there pics or video of how Doc's collar design worked? It sounds great from jedd's write-up! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barbe705 Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 there's a couple of things. basically the pipe is a smaller diameter pipe with sleeves. that way the collars hit the edge of the sleeve and can go no further. once it's tight they have no room to slip and thusly, loosen. it felt like a brick every time I grabbed it and we were fiddling with it a lot less than normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedd Johnson Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel reinard Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Brilliant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I have never done 2HP where it went so smoothly and FAST. Some people were up - some people were down - I really liked it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico300zx Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Ok but couldnt you always have done that, ask you needed its those jacks. Right? Rico Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Ok but couldnt you always have done that, ask you needed its those jacks. Right? Rico No, the grooves make it much faster and easier to change out inserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico300zx Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Dosent the 2hp have groves in the rubbers? That was my impression. Rico Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoggoth Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Dosent the 2hp have groves in the rubbers? That was my impression. Rico I think the biggest thing is that the collars don't start slipping little by little with every drop requiring constant tightening. Very good thought Doc! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Dosent the 2hp have groves in the rubbers? That was my impression. Rico The grooves are on the loading pipe so you just open the spinlocks up enough to switch out the inserts and you don't have to worry about them slipping out on you. If you loosen a collar without the grooves, you not only have to resynch that one but you'll likely have to adjust the other one as it took the brunt of the load while you were fiddling with the first one. With the grooves the amount that the collars can move out is predetermined. The jack stands are convenient but the grooves and the additional piece/stop that sits in the groove, are the difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico300zx Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 Ok I just didn't see it I guess because mine really never slip because I changed the nuts on mine and I usea rachet to tighten them down. Then I use a mallet for the spin part. But if your slipping the groove sounds good. I still like the jacks though. Parris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Parker Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Genious design. Any plans for selling the plastic inserts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedd Johnson Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Ok I just didn't see it I guess because mine really never slip because I changed the nuts on mine and I usea rachet to tighten them down. Then I use a mallet for the spin part. But if your slipping the groove sounds good. I still like the jacks though. Parris Mine don't slip anymore either now that I took my wing nuts off and replaced with hex nuts. Much tighter. However, with this set-up, no weights have to be take n off the loading pipe to change weights. With mine, I have to at least loosen the plates quite a bit to take out an insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico300zx Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Jedd, in climbers vid, it looked like the spin part was really maxed out, therefore a lot of room left to spin inward when loosening, so actually the way he showed it you really shouldn't have to move the weights that much, in fact not at all if you didn't want to, if anything spin back the other side a little. I usually have them spun all the way back so they are shorter, I really never thought of doing it like on the vid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedd Johnson Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 I keep mine spun as far back as possible. They should be spun evenly to prevent an inadvertent front or back load too. It's been a while since I watched that vid so I am not really sure and the distance they were set at during the comp didn't catch my eye. I am so mechanically stupid, I didn't even understand how they worked until doc took it apart after the contest and showed me. Heck, my buddy Eric brought over one of those socket wrenches an I forgot to ratchet the thing. I kept on taking it off and putting it back on. Dumb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 The Spin Locks that Doc used are longer and have a longer "barrel" but the same "nut" if that makes sense. They are a little different than the usual ones I have seen. I'm not going to bother trying to explain in depth, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico300zx Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 The Spin Locks that Doc used are longer and have a longer "barrel" but the same "nut" if that makes sense. They are a little different than the usual ones I have seen. I'm not going to bother trying to explain in depth, I did notice that, a wider star nut would be better to hold the threads when cranking them down for Docs application, id guess, to bad they don't make them wider. You probally wouldnt need that anyway, everything seemed to work just fine in the vid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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