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Bending Newbie Question.


Chez

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Hey guys. I'm pretty new to bending. I'm still learning the technique but I have a bending stock question. I can currently bend the IM yellow nail DO and a green nail DU (Not impressive I know). What store bought piece of steel is between a green and yellow (for training DU) and between a yellow and blue for DO. I'm looking for cheap stuff that I can buy from a local hardware store.

Thanks,

Chez

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Chez-

3/16" square would be a good bet for the DU. You might even be able to find some easier 1/4 x 6/6.5" Grade 2 bolts in this range. For DO, if you have Yellows left, you could cut them down closer to a Blue. Or buy a bunch of 60 penny nails. Many of these will be comparable to a Blue; some will be a lot easier, some harder. If you have already bent the Yellow, you will be very close to the Blue. As soon as I had technique down, it was a very short time between the two for me.

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Thanks for reply Buccos. I just want to make sure about the full name of the 3/16" square. Is that a bolt? I know very little about this stuff. Hopefully I can make a quick transition to the blue nail like you did. I have bent a blue in the past but I cheated and braced it against my leg. Is this a good technique to get strong till I can do it the right way?

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Thanks for reply Buccos. I just want to make sure about the full name of the 3/16" square. Is that a bolt? I know very little about this stuff. Hopefully I can make a quick transition to the blue nail like you did. I have bent a blue in the past but I cheated and braced it against my leg. Is this a good technique to get strong till I can do it the right way?

3/16" square is cold rolled steel stock 3/16" wide and square as opposed to round.

A yellow is 1/4" round CRS(cold rolled steel) at 7" long and a blue the same but 6" long, so a length of 1/4" CRS that you can cut to length would be a good idea.

As with everything, steel varies, so you may get some that's tougher or easier.

Another option for bridging the 3/16" to 1/4" in your DU would be some 3/16" round stainless steel but this may be a bit more expensive than the square. :)

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Thanks man. Learning a lot.

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Thanks for reply Buccos. I just want to make sure about the full name of the 3/16" square. Is that a bolt? I know very little about this stuff. Hopefully I can make a quick transition to the blue nail like you did. I have bent a blue in the past but I cheated and braced it against my leg. Is this a good technique to get strong till I can do it the right way?

No problem! We've all been there too. I had almost no idea of what I was doing for my first several months (until I found some more knowledgable people on the message boards). Posting my videos up for critique/motivation was a big difference-maker too.

I've always purchased my square stock from FBBC. http://www.fatbastardbarbellco.com/BENDERSBAG.html The square will be a decent step-up from the Green, but should be manageble. Square will kink differently than round stock, so you'll probally need some practice to get used to the feel.

I've never tried to brace short colled-rolled steel, but remember reading about that (with the IM Bag of Nails--I think??). There will be minimal transfer if doing this, so IMO, I wouldn't waste my time or steel. Since you have already bent the Yellow, you are very close to the Blue. (For some people, the Blue is actually easier than the Yellow.) Work on your technique and get some videos up. 60d nails are a great bridge; try to find a batch that are easier than the Blue. There will be several you come across that are significantly harder. I've actually had some 60 penny nails that were comparable to easier 1/4" grade 5 bolts.

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Steel varies but this list may help give you some ideas for progressive increases. I ordered it by length then poundage. If you use rated values then only direct comparisons of the same length will be apples to apples. comparing numbers for different lengths will throw you off.

http://www.az-grip.com/calibration.php

- Aaron

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Steel varies but this list may help give you some ideas for progressive increases. I ordered it by length then poundage. If you use rated values then only direct comparisons of the same length will be apples to apples. comparing numbers for different lengths will throw you off.

http://www.az-grip.com/calibration.php

- Aaron

Yes big time. I was confused at why I could not bend a 7" red nail @420# when I could get a 6" G8 @525#.

Also a strange thing I noticed and so does a guy at my work is we can bend 6" easier than 7" even though it is harder. I guess shoulder mechanics are different for us.

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Steel varies but this list may help give you some ideas for progressive increases. I ordered it by length then poundage. If you use rated values then only direct comparisons of the same length will be apples to apples. comparing numbers for different lengths will throw you off.

http://www.az-grip.com/calibration.php

- Aaron

Yes big time. I was confused at why I could not bend a 7" red nail @420# when I could get a 6" G8 @525#.

Also a strange thing I noticed and so does a guy at my work is we can bend 6" easier than 7" even though it is harder. I guess shoulder mechanics are different for us.

Most likely the shoulder flexibility. Its pretty tough for most average to big guys get 7" or longer stock into a decent DO position without specifically working on it. I can't lock anything above 6" into the start position at the moment and even that is tough. For me its a currently combo of shoulder flexibility and arms being too big at this higher weight to get the bar behind my elbows where I can actually get any leverage on it. DU and Reverse styles do not have the same issues though.

- Aaron

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Steel varies but this list may help give you some ideas for progressive increases. I ordered it by length then poundage. If you use rated values then only direct comparisons of the same length will be apples to apples. comparing numbers for different lengths will throw you off.

http://www.az-grip.com/calibration.php

- Aaron

Yes big time. I was confused at why I could not bend a 7" red nail @420# when I could get a 6" G8 @525#.

Also a strange thing I noticed and so does a guy at my work is we can bend 6" easier than 7" even though it is harder. I guess shoulder mechanics are different for us.

Most likely the shoulder flexibility. Its pretty tough for most average to big guys get 7" or longer stock into a decent DO position without specifically working on it. I can't lock anything above 6" into the start position at the moment and even that is tough. For me its a currently combo of shoulder flexibility and arms being too big at this higher weight to get the bar behind my elbows where I can actually get any leverage on it. DU and Reverse styles do not have the same issues though.

- Aaron

I'm hoping I lose some arm size with this weight loss. 248 today (I was 259 at leg 2 of WSH). I've had a really tough time with anything over 6" since adding all the arm mass. It's one of the reasons I haven't done a ton of DO in the last year.

Aaron's list is super helpful to compare stock of the same length. It is very difficult to compare stock of different lengths.

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Thanks guys. Really like the chart. having grippers of progressing strengths has really helped my crush strength so challenging myself with progressing steel should do the same for my bending strength.

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