hugok Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 I'm going to start the KTA to reach the coc 3. By now I have closed the 2.5 some times and i can do a few reps with no 2 and overcrush it etc. In the program it says I shall do negatives with the no 4 if I'm at no 2 and want to reach no 3. But the problem is that I would never be able to close no 4 with two hands or against my tigh. So the question is if the two handles must be completely together when I start the negative? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoggoth Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 The handles should start touching IMO. Use a smaller gripper for your negs until you get your set strength up. They'll still be very effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannon Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 I'm going to start the KTA to reach the coc 3. By now I have closed the 2.5 some times and i can do a few reps with no 2 and overcrush it etc. In the program it says I shall do negatives with the no 4 if I'm at no 2 and want to reach no 3. But the problem is that I would never be able to close no 4 with two hands or against my tigh. So the question is if the two handles must be completely together when I start the negative? I'm not positive that's what it says. I would say you should use a gripper that you can't shut but can almost hold closed. You absolutely need to be able to mash it completely shut with both hands and it shouldn't pop open more than 1/8" to start. That's my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tusrb41 Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Make life easy and order the Negative Machine. It is built to do EXACTLY what it is intended for....Maxed out full metal to metal negative holds. grippersuperstore.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honk Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Depends on your goal. If you want to close hard grippers, I'd say preferably metal-to-metal and beyond the range. That means file down the handles of that gripper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Piche Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Having the gripper open your hand some right from the start is where you want to be. You should not be able to hold it shut at all to start. And, make sure you don't get anal about having the handle exactly touch at the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tselegala Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 uhhh do negatives with the #4 if youre between the 2 and 3??? I must have a pretty hard 4 cuz i can close the 3 and do BFNs on the 3.5 but there is no way in heck that i can even come close to closing my 4 by ANY means exept maybe by rolling over it with my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugok Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Make life easy and order the Negative Machine. It is built to do EXACTLY what it is intended for....Maxed out full metal to metal negative holds. grippersuperstore.com Seem like a nice thing. I think I will try to construct one of those to the gym I'm trying to build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugok Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 I'm going to start the KTA to reach the coc 3. By now I have closed the 2.5 some times and i can do a few reps with no 2 and overcrush it etc. In the program it says I shall do negatives with the no 4 if I'm at no 2 and want to reach no 3. But the problem is that I would never be able to close no 4 with two hands or against my tigh. So the question is if the two handles must be completely together when I start the negative? I'm not positive that's what it says. I would say you should use a gripper that you can't shut but can almost hold closed. You absolutely need to be able to mash it completely shut with both hands and it shouldn't pop open more than 1/8" to start. That's my opinion. Allright, but it says like this: "If you are shooting for the #3, you need a #4 (or something harder than a #3) for negatives and a #2 for over crushes." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugok Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 uhhh do negatives with the #4 if youre between the 2 and 3??? I must have a pretty hard 4 cuz i can close the 3 and do BFNs on the 3.5 but there is no way in heck that i can even come close to closing my 4 by ANY means exept maybe by rolling over it with my car. That's the problem, I don't own a no 4 yet, but Iäm going to order it soon. But since i have a hard time closing the no 3 for negatives I don't believe I'm going to make it with no 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugok Posted December 18, 2009 Author Share Posted December 18, 2009 Having the gripper open your hand some right from the start is where you want to be. You should not be able to hold it shut at all to start. And, make sure you don't get anal about having the handle exactly touch at the start. So you think I shall try negatives with no 4 but not really mind that I don't get metal-to-metal and just do as far as I can? That sounds fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannon Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 I'm going to start the KTA to reach the coc 3. By now I have closed the 2.5 some times and i can do a few reps with no 2 and overcrush it etc. In the program it says I shall do negatives with the no 4 if I'm at no 2 and want to reach no 3. But the problem is that I would never be able to close no 4 with two hands or against my tigh. So the question is if the two handles must be completely together when I start the negative? I'm not positive that's what it says. I would say you should use a gripper that you can't shut but can almost hold closed. You absolutely need to be able to mash it completely shut with both hands and it shouldn't pop open more than 1/8" to start. That's my opinion. Allright, but it says like this: "If you are shooting for the #3, you need a #4 (or something harder than a #3) for negatives and a #2 for over crushes." Yeah, "or something harder than the #3". I personally think the #4 would be the wrong choice for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoggoth Posted December 18, 2009 Share Posted December 18, 2009 Personally I used my elite when going for the 3 as mines quite a bit harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkdan Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Don't worry, I can't get mine closed all the time either. Sometimes it just hurts my pinky, sometimes I just can't get it to reach. Closed is preferred, but you'll gain strength either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tchcalvin Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 I was about your level when I first did KTA. I used a 3.5 and it worked ok for me.... I do probably need something harder, however I am waiting for a negative machine for christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugok Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 Allright, thanx. Maybe I shall change from each workout and do non fully closed negatives with the no 4 and fully closed with 3.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honk Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Allright, thanx. Maybe I shall change from each workout and do non fully closed negatives with the no 4 and fully closed with 3.5. Now that's sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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