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First Im Gripper


JayPierce

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So I got my first IM gripper today. A #3. First attempt right out of the package, I got the handles just past parallel on a CCS with my right hand, and almost to parallel with the left. I warmed up first with 2x10 on my 150 and 1x10 on my 200. I have a long way to go, no doubt.

Just as a bench-mark, I compared it to the Iron Woody Vice Gripper. It feels about the same as settings 12+4 or 5 (168-177). I can close the Vice on 7+9 (149.5) and almost on 12+2 (153). With the size of the #3's spring, though, I'm guessing it'll equate to probably 12+6 or 7 at the closing point. Contemplating building some sort of jig to test them with... I don't know why. :erm

I won't attempt the #3 for probably another month or so.

My forearm routine consists of:

2.5" wrist roller - light warm-up and cool-down

One-handed plate pinch

barbell finger curls

dumbbell wrist curls

dumbbell reverse wrist curls

and gripper work.

I have been doing hammer work with a one-sided dumbbell, but I've come up with an idea for a better rotation movement. Someone has most likely already though of it, but I haven't seen it yet. I'll let you know how that goes, I should have it built tonight.

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So here's my newly built wrist rotator. I'm know I'm not the first person to build one of these. You guys that HAVE built one before, suggestions on how to make it better would be appreciated. It works pretty well the way it is. It gives a constant tension through the rotation range, unlike hammer work where the weight is greatest when the hammer is parallel to the ground.

gallery_15015_978_19728.jpg

gallery_15015_978_22273.jpg

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So here's my newly built wrist rotator. I'm know I'm not the first person to build one of these. You guys that HAVE built one before, suggestions on how to make it better would be appreciated. It works pretty well the way it is. It gives a constant tension through the rotation range, unlike hammer work where the weight is greatest when the hammer is parallel to the ground.

gallery_15015_978_19728.jpg

gallery_15015_978_22273.jpg

How does that thing work? I can't figure it out. Your links don't work bro Here:

http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?autocom...si&img=7781

http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?autocom...si&img=7780

http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?autocom...si&img=7779

EDIT: Do you put your hand in the handle and rotate? Idk I've never seen anything like it before that's for sure, you might be the first.

Edited by vikingsrule92
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Thanks, VR. I was trying to post the actual pics, but I guess I did it wrong.

Yeah, you grab the wooden handle and use your other hand to help get the weight in position. Then you rotate. It gives a resistance more like bending.

I came up with the idea simply because I prefer exersizes that provide the greatest range of resisted motion. I was using a dumbbell loaded only on one side, using the other side as the handle. But, during the vertical portion of the rep, there is very little weight on the rotators.

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So I fabbed up a method of measuring how strong my #3 is. I rigged it where I could hang the weight directly from the end of the handle using a ratchet strap, blocks of wood, and my motorcycle lift to raise and lower the weight.

WTF? I had to hang 170# from it (not including the loading pin and apparatus) before it would close! Just out of curiosity, I measured it to the point that I crushed it on Friday, and it was 125#. Is this unusual for an unseasoned #3? Or do I have a monster?

Also, it doesn't have a dogleg. I don't know if that's common with the new IM's or not.

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Unless it's a single handed #3 it will have a dog leg. ;)

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Unless it's a single handed #3 it will have a dog leg. ;)

Yes, some just aren't as obvious as others. As for the calibration, I'm guessing you did it wrong. It's very easy to have the spring skew, not use a piece of leather between the straps, or not have the handles aligned, among other potential problems with a newbie trying to calibrate. You need to have a veteran help you out so you're doing it right. I extraordinarily doubt it is really that high. IM grippers don't season much, so that's not it.

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I posted pics of it in a new album. You guys check and see which is the dogleg side. Maybe I don't know exactly what I'm looking for.

As far as me not knowing the particulars of gripper calibration, you're definitely right. I didn't think it would make more than a couple of pounds difference, though. I don't have anybody I know of in my area to help me, unfortunately. If any of the calibrators here want to volunteer, I'll pay round-trip shipping just to see how it measures up.

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A 170# 3 is too high. post a pic of the device you used to rate it please.

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Jay.. I just looked through your gallery. If you want us to ID the dogleg for you.. place the gripper on table and take a picture that way. You got every angle except the one we need :laugh

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A 170# 3 is too high. post a pic of the device you used to rate it please.

That's just it. I clamped the gripper to a block using an Adel clamp (basically an exhaust clamp), lined the handles up vertically, and clamped that to my work bench. Then I loaded weight onto a loading pin and sat it on my motorcycle lift, attached that to a strap, and put a block of wood between the straps to keep them from touching the other gripper handle. All I had to do then was lower the lift. So there really was no "device". I placed the strap at the very end of the handle and they touched vertically as well.

The only thing I can think of is that my weights aren't exact. But then again, 20# error for 5 plates doesn't seem right either. They could be relabeled Kg plates, which would make them 165, but the weight labels are cast into the plate.

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I'd have said given the way the light is reflected that the #3 right was the dogleg but a side on pick of each side would be a lot more helpful. :)

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A 170# 3 is too high. post a pic of the device you used to rate it please.

That's just it. I clamped the gripper to a block using an Adel clamp (basically an exhaust clamp), lined the handles up vertically, and clamped that to my work bench. Then I loaded weight onto a loading pin and sat it on my motorcycle lift, attached that to a strap, and put a block of wood between the straps to keep them from touching the other gripper handle. All I had to do then was lower the lift. So there really was no "device". I placed the strap at the very end of the handle and they touched vertically as well.

The only thing I can think of is that my weights aren't exact. But then again, 20# error for 5 plates doesn't seem right either. They could be relabeled Kg plates, which would make them 165, but the weight labels are cast into the plate.

You'd be surprised how easy it is for a rookie to make a simple mistake that makes a big difference, trust me, it wasn't plate error, it was something in your process, don't be too proud to admit you could've done something wrong.

As everyone else said, a side pic of the gripper would be helpful, it's near impossible to tell with the pics you have up.

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lay it flat on a table. take a pic. turn it over. take a pic. compare and you'll see the dogleg, and if you don't, we'll help.

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A 170# 3 is too high. post a pic of the device you used to rate it please.

That's just it. I clamped the gripper to a block using an Adel clamp (basically an exhaust clamp), lined the handles up vertically, and clamped that to my work bench. Then I loaded weight onto a loading pin and sat it on my motorcycle lift, attached that to a strap, and put a block of wood between the straps to keep them from touching the other gripper handle. All I had to do then was lower the lift. So there really was no "device". I placed the strap at the very end of the handle and they touched vertically as well.

The only thing I can think of is that my weights aren't exact. But then again, 20# error for 5 plates doesn't seem right either. They could be relabeled Kg plates, which would make them 165, but the weight labels are cast into the plate.

Weigh your plates. If its still in the 170 range then ship it off for another to rate. If 2 setups rate it at 170# then congrats on having the stoutest #3 I have heard of.. oh ya.. and ill buy it off you if that is the case.. PM me if your interested.. I could trade my 154#'er also..

Also.. Are you using a 1" strap? Are you lining it up where the bevel starts at the end of the handle?

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New pics are up. I THINK I see what you're talking about. Looks like the spring is a little tighter wound on one side, where it was held by the turning machine during forming. Is that right?

Yep, 1" strap lined up just where the bevel starts... meticulously, cuz I tend to be a little bit OCD about that kind of thing.

I'll weigh my plates if I can find a cal'd scale. It may be next weekend before I can.

Edited by JayPierce
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WTF? I had to hang 170# from it (not including the loading pin and apparatus)

My attempts at calibrating have not been producing the results I'd expect, with EVERYTHING reading lower than I think they ought, as and when I can afford to I'll have to sort out some cross calibration on a few of my grippers.

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Alright, I don't know what I was doing wrong the first time. I just cal'd the #3 again (with a slightly different setup) at 157.5#, and my weights are all pretty much dead-on. I also cal'd my Gladiator 200 at 72.5#.

The difference in setup was that I used a different bench, a sawhorse and a 2x4 wide-ways-up as a bridge. That was my mounting surface this time. I also made sure to mount the gripper where the spring could move freely. I hung 150 from it, and it didn't close, so I laid a nickel on the stack. Still nothing, so I laid a 2.5 with it, and it barely closed. Picked up the 2.5 and it opened just a little.

It was interesting to notice that the last quarter inch or so is almost ten pounds. Another note was that 125# pulled it to about the same point as the other day, so maybe something was making illegal contact just before the close?

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