6"x5/16" G2

[Justin Reagan]

I've seen some comparisons that rank it somewhere in between a blue and a G5. In everyone's experience, is that where it usually is (I know G2's vary, but on average)? I'm up to bending 35 of my normal 60d's in a row, but still can't do much with a G5. That small accomplishment is still eluding me. Those dull and hard 60d's were great (I was up to 4 in a row), but, alas, they are no longer sold anywhere that I know of. My galvanized 60d's from Home Depot are a little harder than my regular bright 60d's (actually, next time I go there I'm going to buy a 50 lb. box--my box of bright 60d's is about half gone), but I want something a little harder. I can buy G2's pretty cheap by the pound, also.

I've found while practicing a little normal DO bending that I can bend a 5"x1/4" G2, but not a 6" G2. I also made a sizable kink in a 4" G2 (my hands were extremely achey that day--don't know why I even tried something hard that day). Maybe it's my short arms. I can't even kink a yellow. I actually think 4.5" or so is perfect for me with this style.

Thanks,

Justin Reagan

[AP]

Don't know about the g2s but have you tried cutting down the 60ds? I'm surprised that you can't get a g5 after that much volume, you've got to be close!

[Justin Reagan]

You know, I've cut down a lot of steel, but I've never really thought of cutting down a 60d for some strange reason. Maybe I'll try a 5.5" 60d next time.

At times, I've heard that the 5/16" G2 is as hard as 5/16" HRS (not quite there yet...), and at other times, between a blue and G5.

Thanks,

Justin Reagan

[steelbiceps]

I'm a little confused by Eric's chart for this. An IM blue is the same length as a 6"x5/16 grade 2 and on his chart has a higher strength. In my experience, a blue is way way easier.

http://home.insight.rr.com/strongman/yields2.html

Theoretically, the strength of a 5/16" bar should be (125/64)x the strength of a 1/4" bar of the same length, or roughly twice. Assuming grade 2's are made of the same stuff, a 5/16" is basically twice as strong as a 1/4". Eric's measurements basically confirm this. Comparing to different metals, though, is harder. I'm sure they have different elasticities, etc, which is probably why the blue appears stronger in that measuring system than it feels when you bend it.

[Justin Reagan]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think when G2 carriage bolts are mentioned in that list, they are fully threaded (instead of the partially threaded hex bolts like we are all so used to). Because with a fully threaded carriage bolt, a 6" x 1/4" bolt is definitely easier than an IM white (I can bend the bolt with bare hands...), as depicted in the list. With partially threaded bolts, even with all of the variation in G2's, I think for the most part, the difficulty of a 6"x1/4" would be somewhere in between a normal timber tie (not the really tough ones--just the easy ones) and an IM yellow. So the fully threaded 5/16" bolt would definitely be easier than a blue. I can bend one of those bolts any day. And a blue might challenge me a little bit on a bad day....

So, where do you think the normal 5/16" G2 bolt would fit in?

Justin Reagan

[steelbiceps]

I bet you're right about the threads, Justin. That would solve a lot of inconsistencies.

Well, then, based on the fact that a 1/4"x6" g2 is close to a yellow (maybe a little easier), I'd say a 5/16"x6" g2 is close to a red (maybe a little easier).

[smp76]

I'm a little confused by Eric's chart for this. An IM blue is the same length as a 6"x5/16 grade 2 and on his chart has a higher strength. In my experience, a blue is way way easier.

http://home.insight.rr.com/strongman/yields2.html

Theoretically, the strength of a 5/16" bar should be (125/64)x the strength of a 1/4" bar of the same length, or roughly twice. Assuming grade 2's are made of the same stuff, a 5/16" is basically twice as strong as a 1/4". Eric's measurements basically confirm this. Comparing to different metals, though, is harder. I'm sure they have different elasticities, etc, which is probably why the blue appears stronger in that measuring system than it feels when you bend it.

I think the only truly meaninful comarisons of the various stocks are those of the same length. For example, a 7" piece of the 5/16" round can be compared to any other stock of 7" with a high degree of accuracy. But on the other hand, a 6" grade 8's calibration rating may not necessarily reflect how tough the grade 8 is to bend, relative to a 5" piece of some other type of stock.

-Eric Milfed

I also find that Grade 2s are very inconsistent in their toughness. Remember that these are calibrations for kinks to 30 degrees. Crushes very and kink do as well. For me G2s of 5/16" are right there with my other favorite inconsistant metal 5/16" HRS.

-Sean

[AP]

Yeah, g2 5/16s are all over the place. Most I've tried are easier (or about the same as) blues - and I am talking about regular G2s, all threaded 5/16 carriage bolts are MUCH easier than a blue.

[steelbiceps]

Yeah, g2 5/16s are all over the place. Most I've tried are easier (or about the same as) blues - and I am talking about regular G2s, all threaded 5/16 carriage bolts are MUCH easier than a blue.

Really? Wow. I can bend bend blues in my sleep but last month I almost blew my eardrums without even warping a 6"x5/16" g2. I'll have to try another 5/16" g2 sometime soon. Maybe I was psyched out by it. It sure looks big and feels heavy compared to a blue.

[AP]

Yeah, its definitely only "most" and not all, I've got a BJC that I haven't kinked yet.

[smp76]

Yeah, g2 5/16s are all over the place. Most I've tried are easier (or about the same as) blues - and I am talking about regular G2s, all threaded 5/16 carriage bolts are MUCH easier than a blue.

Really? Wow. I can bend bend blues in my sleep but last month I almost blew my eardrums without even warping a 6"x5/16" g2. I'll have to try another 5/16" g2 sometime soon. Maybe I was psyched out by it. It sure looks big and feels heavy compared to a blue.

Steel is tricky, I have some 5/16" timber ties Deaner gave me and they vary from 60d+ to Red nail all from the same box! Almost injured myself cause I went to warm up with one and went oh, this must be a Red+ renegade.

Yeah, its definitely only "most" and not all, I've got a BJC that I haven't kinked yet.

I have a few rogue BJCs and they are ridiculous! So much so I am unsure if I spelled ridiculous right

-Sean

[steelbiceps]

Where do you guys find the easier 5/16" bolts? I've got ones from Home Depot and True Value that say "307A L" on the head, as well as some that have no markings at all on the head. I've barely even warped these things perceptibly, but I can smash blues all day long.

Today, after failing again on both types 5/16" bolts, I bent three 1/4"x6" g5's in about 30 seconds each (these feel much harder than blues to me). So either I'm misunderstanding this thread, or my 5/16" bolts are on the hard side. I'm not above seeking out weaker 5/16's, though, to bridge the gap.

[smp76]

I guess when it all comes down to it Grade 5s and 8s are you most consistant source for bending material when bolts are concerned. There are higher quality and because of their specific uses must be at a standard. Grade 2s seem so far apart as far as a consistant that we (Deaner and I) have found a Grade 2 that is gold in color like a Grade 8 but is 4.5"X5/16" and marked 307 on the head and they are a joke. We bent these way before we could even move Reds. That is my main reason for stating that Grade 2s are inconsistent.

If you are looking to get out of the 60d marathon (35 in a session) and move to Grade 5s may I suggest some shorter CRS 1/4" round for volume. Just an idea.

-Sean