Number Ten Ox Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 I was extending the handles on my # 3 last night @ work (home depot). I had one handle done and had drilled the hole in the bottom of the other side. Having never tapped threads before I thought everything was going great until... I snapped the bit off inside the handle. Crap. So now I have a gripper with a wood handle extending off the dogleg side and a nasty spike of metal poking out the bottom of the other side. I tried to extract the broken bit but its so uneven I had a hard time getting a pilot hole drilled. I thought about just sawing the end off above the bit and doing the same thing on the other side so i'd have a 3+ with extended handles. Any other ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN PRAYDIS Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 I was extending the handles on my # 3 last night @ work (home depot). I had one handle done and had drilled the hole in the bottom of the other side. Having never tapped threads before I thought everything was going great until... I snapped the bit off inside the handle. Crap. So now I have a gripper with a wood handle extending off the dogleg side and a nasty spike of metal poking out the bottom of the other side. I tried to extract the broken bit but its so uneven I had a hard time getting a pilot hole drilled. I thought about just sawing the end off above the bit and doing the same thing on the other side so i'd have a 3+ with extended handles. Any other ideas? ← can you explane better wood handel? can you get vice grips on the piece sticking out try cutting a slot in the end of the tap with a dremmel tool and use a screw driver to screw it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted October 14, 2005 Author Share Posted October 14, 2005 Wood handle was made of 3/4" dowel with a hole drilled through center. Unfortunatly the sharp point that is sticking out is tiny. I tried using a vise grips as a matter of fact but it just broke the piece off smaller. The remainder of the tap is about a 1/4" into the handle. A dremel might be used to gind it down flat enough to drill a pilot hole for the extractor but I wouldn't know what kind of bit to use. Hmmm... Keep the ideas coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revtor Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 drilling into a tap is going to be near impossible wiht any tool at homedepot. youll honestly need a carbide bit to get anywhere. So if you have one of those, go for it, but otherwise i'd try clamping the handle in a vise, (near the spring end) between two wood strips. then heat up the handle end w/a torch to expand it a tiny bit and use a small screwdriver or punch and a hammer and try to tap tap tap the flutes counterclockwise to screw it out. get it out enough to the point where you can grip it w/pliers and twist it out. If it is only in a tiny bit and its really stuck, then yeah you could cut the handle short and start again. Dont forget lube for the tap this time! good luck! ~Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watzd411 Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 (edited) Wood handle was made of 3/4" dowel with a hole drilled through center. Unfortunatly the sharp point that is sticking out is tiny. I tried using a vise grips as a matter of fact but it just broke the piece off smaller. The remainder of the tap is about a 1/4" into the handle. A dremel might be used to gind it down flat enough to drill a pilot hole for the extractor but I wouldn't know what kind of bit to use. Hmmm... Keep the ideas coming. ← Cut the gripper handles shorter and use it as 'hard short handle #3' and buy a RB240. Sweet as a nut! And everybodies happy. Rydini The Sun Moon And Stars Edited October 14, 2005 by watzd411 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdoire Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 You must measure how deeply you drilled the hole and mark the tap so it doesn't bottom out and snap off. I would cut it and start again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN PRAYDIS Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 take a diamond coated dremmel and drill it or cut the slot in it like i said and use a screwdriver to screw it out also if you making a handel out of wood it wont work it will blow up in your hand on a no 3 spring good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Browne Posted October 14, 2005 Share Posted October 14, 2005 For any future tapping of aluminum handles, it is best to use spiral fluted taps and kerosene as the lubricant. 3 fluted taps will break off quite easy in aluminum. 2 and 4 fluted taps will usually jam in aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.scribner Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 I wouldn't attempt to modify my #3 in that manner. I wouldn't trust wood to sustain the extreme pressures needed to work that gripper. Why not just buy several different grippers and "climb the ladder"?? I would probably cut some galvanized conduit handles to slip over the gripper handles if I felt the need to extend them, but hey, I'm new to this, and grippers are a huge weakness for me right now, and frustrate the h**l out of me!! I've broken off more taps, and EZ Outs (in steel, while restoring my old VW bug) than I care to remember.... John Scribner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clay Edgin Posted October 15, 2005 Share Posted October 15, 2005 (edited) You said the tap was about 1/4" into the handle right? Well cut 1/4" off the handle and retap that with a steel handle that is 1/4" longer so your handles are the same length I wouldn't trust wooden handles either. Tom Black and Bob Lipinski have both lengthened handles using washers. Take a 1.5" long 1/4" thick bolt and stack washers onto the bolt, then thread the bolt into the hole. When you can close it, unscrew the bolt and remove a washer, then screw the bolt back into place. The general rule of thumb is to keep the tap lubricated well during the twists. Go 2-3 half turns in and then back the tap out. If there are too many metal shavings in the flutes of the tap, they will bind up the tap and break off inside the handle. Just take your time and it will work. Edited October 15, 2005 by ClayEdgin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Lipinski Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 http://www.bigsteel.iwarp.com/Articles2/Ad...ifedGripper.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted October 17, 2005 Author Share Posted October 17, 2005 I actually read that article before I started but wanted to try my idea first. I am just going to use the extension to help cheat the gripper shut with my other hand and help in holding it closed. So it will not take the full force of the spring. I chopped about 5/8" off both ends so I can start the process over if I want. Man is that a tough gripper at the moment... Anyone know how far down the handle the end of the spring goes? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Browne Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Anyone know how far down the handle the end of the spring go The springleg of the #3 extends about 3/4 inch past the band. At the least, past models did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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