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Cutting Steel


HAMMERHEAD

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For those of you who buy steel in 20ft lengths how do you cut it up?

Bolt cutter work only on 3/8" and smaller. I'm looking to cut up 1/2" and up.

Don't tell me hacksaw. I alredy earned my hacksaw wings with all the Blocks I've made, and I don't want to be in the steel suppliers parking lot all day sawing. :angry::cry:trout

-HH

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I cut through some 1/2" HRS with a sawzall very quickly last weekend. Maybe 20 seconds per cut. I don't know how feasible it is to use a sawzall in their parking lot.

I bought 20ft of 3/4" bar once, and I just bent it in half. Then I ran it through the passenger side of my Explorer and it went out the front passenger window a few feet, but was not in danger of hitting anything as I drove. I just duct taped a red rag onto the front of it. Then I cut it up at my dad's place with the sawzall.

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Hammerhead - the place I buy from will cut to fit into my van for free - that's 10' sections. Most places will cut to length for a buck or so a cut. I never thought about how to cut stuff in the parking lot. You can get a battery powered "saws all" type saw that would probably work. I've used one of those and it would cut 1/2" no problem - they cut rebar real well and cut quite a bit of it before the battery goes. How short do you have to get it? At home I use my chop saw - that's what they're designed for. It will cut up to maybe 3" stuff or better.

Edited by climber511
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The cuts I make in the parking lot will be the cuts I work with.

I don't want to have them cut up the steel because you tend to have to wait a while. At least 30 mins. I'd rather just cut it up myself. That way I get it the lengths I need.

I'm thinkin' the sawzall would work but it may be tough to cut the steel without having it braced/held in place. Is there a kind of cutting wheel that would work?

Like a Dremel on steroids?

-HH

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It is has been standard service of every steel shop I have come in contact with that they will cut the metal in more manageable pieces for transport. None I have frequented has any charge for this and currently I am buying steel for bending up to 5/16 CRS Square and I get mine cut into 5 foots lengths and at home I cut it down into lengths of my choice. Now if you were to need yours cut to smaller length than 5 foot, I would imagine that they would assist you but that may come at a cost. I guess it really depends on their style of business, basically are they willing to cater to people other than contractors that buy mass amounts of steel.

There is also several options for cutting the steel yourself but would require an investment for the tools.

A Heavy Duty set of Bolt Cutters ( I mean minimum 24-36 set) the larger models should cut the ½ inch but the need for the length is for the tremendous leverage you’ll need to do it without it being a workout in itself. (The larger the cutters the greater the price!)

Heavy Duty (decent) Jig Saw or Reciprocating Saw and use some metal cutting blades- would take long and would save you all the exercise you get from manually sawing.

Acetylene Torch or Plasma Torch- Cuts through some of the thickest metal with ease, but a major investment unless you have a great need for it in another profitable endeavor.

* A Welding or Machine shop could cut it for you at a small expense.

Disc Cutter or Grinder – Like a big dermal tool but you can buy special metal cutting disc, even diamond coated which would do the job I am sure.

These are just a few ideas to get you thinking of the possible options and to stimulate others to comment with different ideas.

I hope this helps you in some way my friend. GatorGrip

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http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...e&s=hi&n=228402

Try this - I'm sure a lot of companies make them but this will do the job - I've used this model at work to cut rebar (lots of rebar) and it does the job.

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Thanks for the imput fellas!

Currently I've ben buying 1/4-3/8". This has posed no problem because I bought a pair of bolt cutters which have proven very valuable.

I'm thinking Some type of Disk Cutter will be the way to go for me since the bars will not be braced.

I also need the flexibility of cutting the steel at home so I can progress by cutting the bars down bit by bit.

Thanks again for the imput. I'll let you know the rout I go and how it works.

-HH

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If you're using a sawzall in the parking lot, bring along a small 2x4. Put the board on the ground, put the 1/2" bar on the board, and step on it with one foot to hold it in place. Then you can cut down into the steel and into the wood if need be.

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I was going to say the same thing as Clay, maybe you should make an indentation in it so that it will fit in the board and not move if your foot moves. Also, be sure you are using a blade made for cutting steel. That sounds obvious but if you don't have any, you'll have to buy some.

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If you've got the cash and want to buy a new tool I'd suggest the STIHL Cutquick cutoff machine. A buddy of mine's Dad is a contractor and he has one and it's a BAD machine. It buzzes through 5/8" rebar like warm butter. The link is below.

http://www.nhlawn.com/stihl/stihl_cut_off_machine.htm

I'm buying one of these if I ever experience a midlife crisis :D

Edited by jad
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Speaking of cutting rebar, my uncle loaned us a rebar cutting shear that you just put on the ground and operate. Made cutting 1/2" and 3/4" rebar very easy. No electricity required either. I can't remember it's exact name, but "rebar shear" should net you should good results.

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My brother bought his sawzall for 89 dollars, one tenth that of the stihl cut off machine. Point is for your purposes you can get by with a cheap machine. Not extremely cheap mind you but if you do not use it frequently you do not need commercial quality.

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The definition of "World Class" is like grippers and assholes, everybody has 'em and they're all different. The best you can hope for is that your grippers don't stink. -HH

I am sorry this off the subject but I just about fell out of my chair HammerHead this is the first time I read your signature line.

Homemade humor no doubt because you just can't buy qaulity lines like that, after reading all these mounds of post and comments on brands and even model years of grippers and how the same #3 CoC swings widely in strength versus BB, HG, Ect....

Your line just sums the whole issue up so nicely- funny yet wrought with truth! :D:rock:tongue

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not ideal but it works take an ordinary edger you edge your lawn with and put on an 8 inch metal cutting wheel rev that baby up and cut your steel lay them next to each other and walk the machine towards them to cut it works good but nothing beats a cut off saw :erm

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A metal cutting band saw. I bought mine for $179. Most farm & fleet or Menards stores carry them. I cut pretty much all the FBBC stuff with mine. I've had it for 18 months & have cut miles of steel. For bending stock, it works great, it's got a stop on one end you can set to 8" or less, then I'll stack 4-5 pieces in the clamp. cut, slide, clamp, cut. I can cut & grind about 100pc per hour now. I've cut over 1500 pieces in the last 3 months for bending stock alone. You can cut up to 4" solid on it.

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Not to sound like a noob, but what do you plan on doing with 3/8 and 1/2 inch metal? Bend it? :blink

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Real benders use hacksaws. :tongue

So do poor and cheapskate benders...

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Again, thaks for all the imput!

I got a Dewalt Heavy Duty Angle Grinder. (about $45) With a handful of metal cutting disks.

Total with tax was about $65.

Today I tore though3 1/2" HRS round and 1 1/2"HRS square bars. Lots of cool sparks. Nice clean cuts.

-HH

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