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Horseshoes, Again


Zach Passman

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OK-

So, I'm still very interested in bending horseshoes. However, I have not found many (well, 2) that I'm able to bend--and they have both been used.

After visiting a local stable and looking for used shoes in the dirt and poop, I went inside to talk to the staff. They sent me to the Valley to another feed and tack store, that sells new shoes. I spoke to the owner about their relative strengths, and here's what he told me (some of this is old news for many of you):

Shoes go from 000 to 5 (I think). Each number is also available in "LITE," which is slightly thinner. The numbers indicate the size of the shoe--not the thickness of the metal, but the measurement across the shoe, and from top to bottom. Bigger the number, bigger the shoe. However, he told me that the shoe thickness is the same, whether one is considering a 000 or a 4.

So I bought a few shoes, all LITE. A pair of 000, a pair of 00, and a pair of 1s.

Got home, wrapped up a 000, and struggled for a minute or so...until I was a sweaty, laughing mess. It didn't move, of course--I wasn't able to bend the metal.

Here's a question: If all the above info is true regarding the relatively consistent shoe thickness across sizes--might a #4 shoe be easier to bend than a 000? Better leverage, better grip, etc?

For any of you who can bend shoes, does this make sense? I know, I know--I've asked about shoe bending before...and I'm sure I'm not strong enough to bend the ones I'm trying. But I'd really like to determine where I can start. There MUST be some weaker shoes to start with.

Feedback, please! Set me straight.

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Here's a question: If all the above info is true regarding the relatively consistent shoe thickness across sizes--might a #4 shoe be easier to bend than a 000? Better leverage, better grip, etc?

Good question. If they are all uniform thickness, then the larger shoes would definitley be easier because of the added leverage.

I have shoes that go from 000 to 7 (draft horse 1" wide x 1/2" thick) and they vary in thickness because some are LITE while others are regular thickness.

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Exerise band comes to mind.

If you can tranfer the movement to bands then load up the band.

You can get the band at the drug store.

or if you make a machine that act like a horse shoe.

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I do now why ironmind doesnot get into selling horse shoes that would

be great. Why not they do it with nails.

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http://www.horseshoes.com/

This is how I got going on shoes. Thanks to Tom Black.

St. Criox ultra lites 000 to 2. They are like bending nails. In time you will get stronger. Take your time and learn you body movement. A cheaper way to pull shoes is to get spikes and bend them in a vice if you can't bend them yourself. then pull them apart and keep doing these until it breaks. Shoes aint cheap. The big secert to shoes is get a strong vice, then pull with your whole body. Used shoes can hurt you if you get to pulling hard on a forged shoe (tempered one). I have pulled many thin ones and they did not move. About blew a muscle too. BE CAREFUL!

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I'm not a horse person, but aren't there specialty horse shoes? Like I know they have heavy ones in order to make a horse highstep when it walks, and aren't racing horse shoes made out of aluminum?

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Most shoes of the same type I've seen get wider as the size goes up, with a similar thickness, so the bigger are easier theory doesn't usually work. It's true in some cases, but most often not. The ones in John Beatty's bender's bag are the same type, but the smaller of the two is decidedly easier.....same thickness but not as wide. They're both pretty easy to destroy but definitely different.

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I seem to recall reading something online that rebar would be a good training substitute for horseshoes.

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I have a very hard time holding on to the little 0's I get, I too have wondered about the "thicker/bigger steel but better leverage" idea.... Thanks for the input guys. Gotta get crankin if I'm going to be smoking em at AOBS in June. :rock

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Shoes vary greatly, the #'s I'm not familiar with but a local stable and Ferrier, near me have tons of used shoes of varied thickness, I found the larger shoes easier as they have more leverage, a smaller shoe of the same thickness is much harder, obviously the best to learn on is the used shoes.

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I've done a few shoes and really enjoy it but the last time I tried one it was thinner than the others I've done but I couldn't barely bugde it.Steve was talking about tempered ones how do you know if they're tempered? I was hoping I could blame my wimp out on that.

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