ryaneverk2 Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 I'm in the middle of KTA 2 working on getting the 35-pound blob up. The problem I'm having is that as soon as my hands touch a blob they're sweaty and just slip right off. I've tried rubbing them dry as I can with a towel, washing them real well, using chalk.... nothing seems to help. Sometimes I can get a dry grip on them, and I can hold the 35-pounder for about 5 seconds... but much of the time, it's so slippery that I can't even hold it for a second. As soon as I lift it just slides right out, and after that it's like it's practically wet. Really frustrating because I'm having trouble actually working the lifts when they slip right off so quick, and it's time consuming to be constantly trying to dry my hands. Sometimes they're so slippery that I can't even lift the 30-pounder, which I can do easily when my hands aren't sweating. I don't know if it's the cold garage and cold metal blobs mixed with my warm body or what... maybe I just have sweaty hands. Chalk doesn't seem to help on my blobs.... just makes them slippery... I guess they're too smooth for chalk to help. Any ideas for coping with the slipperiness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rying Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Try putting hockey tape on the gripping surface of the blob. While perhaps this is "cheating", it is alot more consistent and relies less on having the elusive "perfectly chalked hand". It makes it a little easier, so you can microload (from tape to no-tape). I taped my slick 37.5 hex and my 35 lb plates when I was on (my modified plate & blob) KTA2 and I think it really helped make my negatives more effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zpf Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Sounds like you may be doing too much to achieve that dry hand. I have found that if I wash my hands too close to adding chalk it does not have the desired effect. I personally attribute this to the natural oils on the hands being washed away. If you just have an exceptionally shiny blob you may find that first working to build up the amount of chalk on it in one place (without attempting the lift) to give you fingers a better chance of catching. The cold may have an effect on your hot hands ability to lift the cold blob, have you tried performing the lift in a warm environment (first allowing the blobs to acclimatise)? Do you also regularly remove the dead skin on your hands with a pumice stone? Doing this for me seems to improve the grip potential of the skin. Good luck with getting the lift! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Piche Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 I've said before with pinching that to get your ultimate "max" you have to decide whether you are going "clean" or "dirty". Plus, it helps avoid variances that occur if you waffle all over with respect to being sweating one day, dry the next, somewhere in between, etc. With such small increments meaning the difference between a lift and no lift, these variances will have you pulling your hair out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGuy Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 What are the conditions in the room/place you are doing your blob attempts, is it hot and humid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 You said the blobs were "cold". My garage has heat but I only turn it on right before I go out to lift so I've experienced the same thing this winter. A cold blob and warm hands will immediately cause condensation or whatever you want to call it on the surface of the steel and chalk doesn't matter because the moisture comes from the steel so to speak. Whatever, it makes it almost immpossible to lift the things. Take them in the house and keep them room temperature and I think you'll find things will work out OK for you. Or at least you'll just have the problem of the darn things being heavy, not slippery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironorr Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 (edited) Dude, no one feels the same frustration at the moment as much as I do!!! I am doing the KTA2 to lift the 40 pounder. Did you get your Blobs from Ed Claypoole like I did?? They're awesome Blobs. but they're VERY SLIPPERY. It's very frustrating because I can hold the 40 pounder in the air for a couple of seconds, but my 35 pounder won't budge. My 35 and 45 pound Blobs are the slipperiest things I've ever gripped, yet my 40 and 50 pounders are more rough. Hell I'll probably lift the actual "BLOB" before I even lift my 45 pounder! So it looks like we have another factual quote to add to our books and it goes like this: GRIPPERS VARY, AND SO DO BLOBS!!! Edited April 24, 2005 by ironorr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryaneverk2 Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 (edited) rying: I think I'll try the hockey tape as a last resort, if I can't get around the slipperiness any other way. Thanks for the tip though. zpf: I don't use the pumice stone right now because I haven't been getting much dead skin since I've been off grippers and deadlift during KTA2. I believe the coldness may be an issue. Wanna: "I've said before with pinching that to get your ultimate "max" you have to decide whether you are going "clean" or "dirty". Plus, it helps avoid variances that occur if you waffle all over with respect to being sweating one day, dry the next, somewhere in between, etc. With such small increments meaning the difference between a lift and no lift, these variances will have you pulling your hair out." Exactly how I'm feeling. I've been going clean, since using chalk on these has just made them worse. I could try building a lot up on it like zpf suggested but I don't think it will help with these. I suppose I could try it and if it doesn't work, just wipe it off... Any tips on going "clean" or "dirty"? OldGuy: It's out in the garage and usually in the evening-night... usually a little cool and slightly humid, it seems. Maybe it just seems humid because my hands are always SWEATY on those blobs. climber: I think I'll try taking them inside. That makes sense, and I was thinking that it was like condensation on the blobs. It appears real fast as soon as I grab those things, and there are obvious "heat marks" from my fingers, like when you put your hands on a mirror. ironorr: The 35-er, the one that is the slipperiest, I did get from Ed. That thing is perfectly smooth, not a rough spot on it. Sometimes I'll get a good grip on it in a two finger lift, and can hold it for a while, and then a few minutes later I could try lifting with my whole hand, and can't budge it, because my hand just slides off instantly. FRUSTRATING. I also got my 40 from him, which is pretty slippery too. I'm still working on the 35, though. Thanks for the replies fellas. Any other suggestions would be great. Edited April 24, 2005 by ryaneverk2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Browne Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Try painting your slippery blobs with Rust-Oleum Premium, Fine Textured spray paint.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMERHEAD Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 I've used athletic tape to train with blocks that were beyond my ability. This is a great way to train. The best reason I can give you is, it will train you hand in the position of your goal block. As your hand gets stronger in this position your need for the tape will be eliminated. Good luck, the slippery blocks suck. I got a 42.5lber that's slick as snott. -HH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revtor Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 maybe get it sandblasted to give it a slight even texture and then repaint it? Its a tool to train with, not some exacting standard that cant be modified.... ~Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Browne Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Try painting your slippery blobs with Rust-Oleum Premium, Fine Textured spray paint.... ← Ryan, I will 100% guarantee the product I listed here, will give you the results you want. I am so confident in it, that if you do decide it DOES NOT work for you, I will send you money for the cost of the paint! You will though, need to prep the surface of the blob. A thorough Acetone wash preps it nicely. Follow the directions on the paint can and you will see a remarkable difference. Guaranteed! It is easy to do and not costly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryaneverk2 Posted April 25, 2005 Author Share Posted April 25, 2005 Try painting your slippery blobs with Rust-Oleum Premium, Fine Textured spray paint.... ← Ryan, I will 100% guarantee the product I listed here, will give you the results you want. I am so confident in it, that if you do decide it DOES NOT work for you, I will send you money for the cost of the paint! You will though, need to prep the surface of the blob. A thorough Acetone wash preps it nicely. Follow the directions on the paint can and you will see a remarkable difference. Guaranteed! It is easy to do and not costly ← Rick, Do you think this will help overcome the problem with moisutre? It seems that it's sweat/moisture from my hands that makes them slippery, almost wet. Would this not be a problem with this paint you suggested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Browne Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Try painting your slippery blobs with Rust-Oleum Premium, Fine Textured spray paint.... ← Ryan, I will 100% guarantee the product I listed here, will give you the results you want. I am so confident in it, that if you do decide it DOES NOT work for you, I will send you money for the cost of the paint! You will though, need to prep the surface of the blob. A thorough Acetone wash preps it nicely. Follow the directions on the paint can and you will see a remarkable difference. Guaranteed! It is easy to do and not costly ← Rick, Do you think this will help overcome the problem with moisutre? It seems that it's sweat/moisture from my hands that makes them slippery, almost wet. Would this not be a problem with this paint you suggested? ← I was under the impression your blobs themselves were surface slick. The fine texture paint will cure that. I see you are saying the problem is your hands themselves. To combat your hand moisture, You will most likely have to follow a regimen of washing your hands. Then try wiping them down with rubbing alcohol or get some of those hand towlettes. Then coat them with a little chalk. Rock rosin works well or get a rosin bag that baseball pitchers use. You can also try "Sure Grip" that comes in a spraycan. The rosin, spray grip, etc can be found at Sports Authority or a retailer that sells sporting goods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryaneverk2 Posted April 25, 2005 Author Share Posted April 25, 2005 I was under the impression your blobs themselves were surface slick. The fine texture paint will cure that. I see you are saying the problem is your hands themselves. To combat your hand moisture, You will most likely have to follow a regimen of washing your hands. Then try wiping them down with rubbing alcohol or get some of those hand towlettes. Then coat them with a little chalk. Rock rosin works well or get a rosin bag that baseball pitchers use. You can also try "Sure Grip" that comes in a spraycan. The rosin, spray grip, etc can be found at Sports Authority or a retailer that sells sporting goods. ← Well, they blobs themselves are actually slick, as well. Especially the 30-pounder. But I think the main problem is with hand moisture, or from condensation from my warm hands + cold blobs. I've put them inside and will try to do tonight's workout inside the house, and see how that helps with it. I haven't tried rubbing alcohol yet, so I may give that a try, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Everybody has given you some great ideas. Something that I've found that helps is to rotate the areas you train with on the blob. For example, if you have a blob50 don't always just grip over the Blob50 embossment. Roll it and grip a different area. This way the hand oil and moisture doesn't build up as fast and you don't have to go through an elaborate cleaning ritual before attempts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluteus Maximus Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Are your blobs sanded down to bear metal? If not, I would definitely try it. You can power sand them with a coarse brush pad- sort of a 'knurled' effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryaneverk2 Posted April 25, 2005 Author Share Posted April 25, 2005 Are your blobs sanded down to bear metal? If not, I would definitely try it. You can power sand them with a coarse brush pad- sort of a 'knurled' effect. ← I was considering that too... I think I'll try the minor adjustments first, such as doing them inside to help against condensation from cold blobs + warm hands, and probably the rubbing alcohol.... then athletic tape...then probably the paint.... and if nothing seems to help, I'll probably rough them up with some sanding. Hopefully doing them inside where it's a little warmer will help, we'll see tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Browne Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Are your blobs sanded down to bear metal? If not, I would definitely try it. You can power sand them with a coarse brush pad- sort of a 'knurled' effect. ← I was considering that too... I think I'll try the minor adjustments first, such as doing them inside to help against condensation from cold blobs + warm hands, and probably the rubbing alcohol.... then athletic tape...then probably the paint.... and if nothing seems to help, I'll probably rough them up with some sanding. Hopefully doing them inside where it's a little warmer will help, we'll see tonight. ← After you wash your hands, slosh on the rubbing alcohol and then fan your hands back and forth fast. This will quicken the evaporation causing a better drying affect. Then chalk up a little. If you power sand your blobs, be aware that you face the possiblity of removing the natural suface texture and making them smoother. Cast iron is a brittle metal and is easily changed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryaneverk2 Posted April 25, 2005 Author Share Posted April 25, 2005 After you wash your hands, slosh on the rubbing alcohol and then fan your handsback and forth fast. This will quicken the evaporation causing a better drying affect. Then chalk up a little. If you power sand your blobs, be aware that you face the possiblity of removing the natural suface texture and making them smoother. Cast iron is a brittle metal and is easily changed ← Thanks, Rick. I'll be trying the rubbing alcohol first, and tape, paint, etc... before I go and sand the blobs. Hopefully that won't be necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbrown Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 you could leave your blob out in the rain...lol we left our hex in the rain (not on purpose) and it now has a much rougher texture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Browne Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 http://www.blackwatersportsb2b.com/cramer_...atters_bag.html A good product to use on hands for blob lifting, if you dislike chalk. lasts a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 zcor - I've never used rosin before - I somehow thought that was considered cheating. Isn't rosin sort of sticky or tacky? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNowiski Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 zcor - I've never used rosin before - I somehow thought that was considered cheating. Isn't rosin sort of sticky or tacky? ← Rosin? Like for a violin or String Bass? -Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 My neighbor just showed me a bag of something called X FACTOR XPD. It says The Anti Chalk. 100% inert, non-marking, hydrophobic. He only had a tiny little bit left - I'm going to tryit tonight. Anyone every heard of this stuff? It doesn't feel like much of anything on your hands but they do feel "dry" but not slick dry like all the oils are washed off your hands. Manufactured by XPD-Bellevue, Wa, USA is all it says. Nothing on a Google search so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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