Lubrication And Calibration Ratings

[EricMilfeld]

Paul and I see the need to recalibrate all of our grippers. The original figures were obtained with non-oiled, yet basically clean and rust-free grippers. A #3.5 that hit 177 previously hit only 166 after an application of oil. We had time for only one calibration last night, but I will continue to post the results as they come in.

I think a standard should be set for calibrating that requires a fresh coat of oil on the spring. As of now, I believe it's meaningless to compare our gripper ratings where a fresh coat of oil was not applied. Perhaps the type of oil needs to be addressed, as well. My wife brought up the point of organic oils eventually breaking down and forming a gooey, non-slippery substance. So, perhaps something like a silicone based oil would be best. Paul also has a theory, which at first sounded far-fetched, but may actually have some merit. He and I have noticed that it seems as if rustier grippers, after receiving a fresh application of oil, actually close easier than they would if kept in a well oiled state for some time without any rust. We're wondering if little particles of crushed rust act as ball bearings between the springs. We also wonder if organic oils becoming gooey over time could account for it. Of course, it could be a combination of the two. We also wonder if we're nuts.

I know some others have reported similar results, but to actually obtain the results for yourself through calibration was an eye-opener.

On a slightly unrelated topic, wouldn't it be cool to have a friction-free gripper?! We spent about an hour last night talking about possible designs.

[mobsterone]

Too, too deep. I'm gonna PM you on another matter.

[lukeamdman]

I agree. I'm sure Matt will chime in, but we both oil our grippers before calibrations.

My #3 went from 168 to 152 after oiling it!

[climber511]

Paul and I see the need to recalibrate all of our grippers. The original figures were obtained with non-oiled, yet basically clean and rust-free grippers. A #3.5 that hit 177 previously hit only 166 after an application of oil. We had time for only one calibration last night, but I will continue to post the results as they come in. I agree and will do all mine again with a fresh coat of oil.

I think a standard should be set for calibrating that requires a fresh coat of oil on the spring. OK As of now, I believe it's meaningless to compare our gripper ratings where a fresh coat of oil was not applied. Perhaps the type of oil needs to be addressed, as well. My wife brought up the point of organic oils eventually breaking down and forming a gooey, non-slippery substance. So, perhaps something like a silicone based oil would be best. Paul also has a theory, which at first sounded far-fetched, but may actually have some merit. He and I have noticed that it seems as if rustier grippers, after receiving a fresh application of oil, actually close easier than they would if kept in a well oiled state for some time without any rust. The rust coming off means less metal so it's weaker hehe We're wondering if little particles of crushed rust act as ball bearings between the springs. We also wonder if organic oils becoming gooey over time could account for it. Of course, it could be a combination of the two. We also wonder if we're nuts. Not much doubt on this part

I know some others have reported similar results, but to actually obtain the results for yourself through calibration was an eye-opener.

On a slightly unrelated topic, wouldn't it be cool to have a friction-free gripper?! We spent about an hour last night talking about possible designs.

[Autolupus]

A PTFE lubricant would probably work best.

[MalachiMcMullen]

I like the idea! I've liked it since Cannon suggested it really. I used 3 in 1 oil for all of my grippers and it's worked great so far.

[bencrush]

I calibrated at least one of mine back in April before and after oiling and got very noticeable differences. It's one thing I didn't mention publicly because I thought most people wouldn't believe it.

[Cannon]

Here are a couple of my posts on this idea:

http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry383751

http://www.gripboard.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry383932

I have put this into practice and have been very happy with the results. With my BBGM (my lab rat gripper), I have been able to hit very consistent numbers. Really only a 1lb variation that is typically a result of going over the next pound or not. To clarify that, I don't personally round the decimal from the calibration. It didn't make sense to me to ever round up and assign a higher number. So 155.12 and 155.87 would both be 155. But a slightly different combination of plates might put me at 156.20 or whatever so that would be 156. I also think it's a bit of a stretch to think I can be accurate to within .01lbs with other variables like strap placement.

[Cannon]

I use WD-40 because it sprays easily, it's cheap, and you can get it ANYWHERE, at least in the US.

[Cannon]

We already knew this, though, but I personally wasn't paying it much attention. If you search for "mash monster" and look at the old threads, there is some pretty interesting stuff that leads up to the decision to oil and clean the MM grippers after every cert.

From my other post: I did this search again myself and couldn't find the posts I was talking about. I think Rick Walker was involved somehow? Basically, someone got the MMG1 gripper who should have closed it in their sleep. But it was difficult for them and it raised questions about "was it the same gripper?" and "was it possibly one of the backups?" and "if it was a backup, are they similar enough to serve as a backup?" But then Wannagrip confirmed it WAS the same gripper that had been in use, but needed to be cleaned and oiled. If memory serves, that was basically the point of the old posts I'm referring to.

[Cannon]

To add another point of discussion to this thread, regarding the strap spreader:

I have taken to using a rubber ball. I noticed sometimes during the calibration that where the strap goes over the handle, it seemed loose toward the front (like, near the bevel) even though there was 150lbs hanging on the strap! I couldn't figure out how that was possible. I found that if I fiddled with the wooden spreader block, I could make it better. What I realized is that the wooden block was creating pressure points on the strap that changed the weight distribution over the gripper handle. It was essentially taking enough of the load from an uneven strap placement that it created slack over the top of the gripper handle. Even over the thickness of just a 1" strap! So I started using a small rubber ball so that the strap could shift and adjust against the ball. The ball just "rolls" between the straps and doesn't create the same problem with weight distribution over the handle. In other words, if there is uneven strap placement, even by a little, the strap can roll and correct itself on the ball as the weight pulls down instead of just binding against the corner of a wooden block.

Just mentioning this in case anyone else has noticed the same thing.

[Cannon]

To add another point of discussion to this thread, regarding the strap spreader:

I have taken to using a rubber ball. I noticed sometimes during the calibration that where the strap goes over the handle, it seemed loose toward the front (like, near the bevel) even though there was 150lbs hanging on the strap! I couldn't figure out how that was possible. I found that if I fiddled with the wooden spreader block, I could make it better. What I realized is that the wooden block was creating pressure points on the strap that changed the weight distribution over the gripper handle. It was essentially taking enough of the load from an uneven strap placement that it created slack over the top of the gripper handle. Even over the thickness of just a 1" strap! So I started using a small rubber ball so that the strap could shift and adjust against the ball. The ball just "rolls" between the straps and doesn't create the same problem with weight distribution over the handle. In other words, if there is uneven strap placement, even by a little, the strap can roll and correct itself on the ball as the weight pulls down instead of just binding against the corner of a wooden block.

Just mentioning this in case anyone else has noticed the same thing.

Luke just reminded me about something here. He's been using a short section of 3" PVC pipe as a spreader and has had good results with that. I think it might be a better choice than a ball. It will roll the same way as a ball and allow the strap to correct itself, but will also contact the strap evenly across the width. It also sounds like it stays in better than a ball. I think it's a good idea I'm going to start using--Thanks Luke!

[acorn]

Interesting, I normally just use a bent red nail or equiv as my spreader.

- Aaron

[lifesnotfair]

My IM and BB gripper's springs rust quickly. My RB160 gripper is my only gripper with a shiny spring. I wonder if they put a coat or something different or what.

[cemery]

I agree about the oil factor. A silicone chain lube works really well. Makes me wonder what # gripper I've really been closing. . . uh oh.

[Jedd Johnson]

We already knew this, though, but I personally wasn't paying it much attention. If you search for "mash monster" and look at the old threads, there is some pretty interesting stuff that leads up to the decision to oil and clean the MM grippers after every cert.

From my other post: I did this search again myself and couldn't find the posts I was talking about. I think Rick Walker was involved somehow? Basically, someone got the MMG1 gripper who should have closed it in their sleep. But it was difficult for them and it raised questions about "was it the same gripper?" and "was it possibly one of the backups?" and "if it was a backup, are they similar enough to serve as a backup?" But then Wannagrip confirmed it WAS the same gripper that had been in use, but needed to be cleaned and oiled. If memory serves, that was basically the point of the old posts I'm referring to.

That was Steve McGranahan's cert.

[Cannon]

We already knew this, though, but I personally wasn't paying it much attention. If you search for "mash monster" and look at the old threads, there is some pretty interesting stuff that leads up to the decision to oil and clean the MM grippers after every cert.

From my other post: I did this search again myself and couldn't find the posts I was talking about. I think Rick Walker was involved somehow? Basically, someone got the MMG1 gripper who should have closed it in their sleep. But it was difficult for them and it raised questions about "was it the same gripper?" and "was it possibly one of the backups?" and "if it was a backup, are they similar enough to serve as a backup?" But then Wannagrip confirmed it WAS the same gripper that had been in use, but needed to be cleaned and oiled. If memory serves, that was basically the point of the old posts I'm referring to.

That was Steve McGranahan's cert.

Yes! Thank you for putting me out of my misery

[Bob Lipinski]

Thanks Jedd! That's who I thought it was. I remember that.

[Paul Knight]

I remember Ben's vid and it sounded like the MM3 was about to break!

[Captain Crunk]

I put a few drops of Rem Oil on mine every few weeks.

[EricMilfeld]

Paul and I calibrated some more grippers last night, taking care to oil each one just prior to putting them in the RGC device. When the following grippers were first calibrated they were all in very good shape with little if any rust, but most hadn't been oiled for at least several weeks.

Listed below is the type of gripper, followed by the calibration readings we got back in April, and finally, the latest readings.

#2...113...112

#3...143...141

#3...150...145

Elite...166...163

One of the more dramatic changes was a rather tough #3 with the one of the new springs, rust free. It calibrated at 162, but felt way harder due to the way it would bind up en route to closing. Previous to oiling if felt like at least a 170, afterwards maybe high 150s. Unfortunately we don't have the gripper in our possession at the moment to recalibrate.

[Incindium]

So are the calibrations actually wrong without the lubrication or are the grippers just harder to close because the spring is binding more? If its the later then there really isn't an issue is there?

[MalachiMcMullen]

So are the calibrations actually wrong without the lubrication or are the grippers just harder to close because the spring is binding more? If its the later then there really isn't an issue is there?

This.

There is an issue with the binding though. The oil eliminates much of the binding and makes the sweep the grippers smooth instead of choppy. As far as competitions are concerned, oiling grippers helps to keep them consistent. If you calibrated a gripper just after oiling it, you KNOW what it will calibrate at if you oil it just before use. It helps eliminate guesswork when lining up grippers at a comp.

[Paul Knight]

So are the calibrations actually wrong without the lubrication or are the grippers just harder to close because the spring is binding more? If its the later then there really isn't an issue is there?

IMO I would say that they are wrong, unless you didn't oil it ever and just always used the gripper in the same state as when you cal'ed it, but if you cal'ed it (un-oiled) and then oiled it - it's not the same gripper

[Incindium]

Basically you need to calibrate the grippers in the state that they are to be used.

In my case I never oil my grippers so my calibrations are fine as it. If I ever oil them up I'll need to recalibrate them.