Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
HAMMERHEAD

Plates With Good Hubs

Recommended Posts

HAMMERHEAD

Went to a local fitness store and noticed Hampton plates. I remember people posted on the board pictures of them because they look like they have good hubs. Well they do. Unfortunately they are painted/sealed to have the slickest surface possible. :( I wouldn't even recommend 'em for plate pinching.

-HH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Matt Van Weele

I would look at used sporting goods supply stores or in the paper for old barbell sets. I have tried the painted ones and there quite a bit harder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JeffPeterson

If you want easy hubs get Jacksons. They are very easy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MIKE HALEY RILEY CLOE

HH, I found my 55s (they have great hubs) at a second hand sports store, actually I have found quite a few odd weighted plates there including 3lbs. and 7.5lbs. which work great with the sledge. Good lucK, Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
climber511

Has anyone tried the Ivanko plates for hub lifting - on the website, they look like they might be OK?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OldGuy
Has anyone tried the Ivanko plates for hub lifting - on the website, they look like they might be OK?

I have both old and new Ivanko plates and the 35 and 45 do not seem suitable for hublifting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thorfinn

Not sure if this makes sense but,...

My gym has Hampton dbs and these things are nice to hub lift. I just turn the db on its side and hub pinch-it and pick-it-up. Why are these good? Becasue they are nice dry semi-hard rubber plates on the ends. Some sizes offer only the rubber (~1") but, others have a metal plate so there is more to grab (~2").

Long story short... These are awesome in my opinion for hub lifting. No chalk required. If it falls, it semi bounces and does not have a huge bang. Owners (for some reason) do not like people banging plates and etc around.

Pro-Style Dumbells (what the ones I use look like)

http://www.hamptonfitness.co.uk/dumbells.shtml

* The ones I use are blue and are at least 3 years old. Looks like they have changed a bit. Warning the style at top is not so good for hub lifting because the rubber is slippery and harder.

I have picked up 25 lbs w/ both hands with the 1" surface-to-grip and 40lbs with 2" surface-to-grip. The surface makes a huge difference. I almost have the 35s (1" surface).

-Keith-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HAMMERHEAD

Those look cool! Would definitly work the fingers.

-HH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sybersnott

Hammerhead,

Is there any way you can remove the finish off of those plates and set them up just for hub pinching??

The 35# plates I got were a godsend, because I looked all over for some just like them and when I saw them I bought them immediately.

Either that or I can give you the measurements off of mine and you can build one out of a piece of steel and then hook it up to some weighs and lift it like that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HAMMERHEAD

Thanks for the offer, but don't sweat it Snott. I'm not training hubs at the moment. I just rembered that we had discussed Hampton plates in the past and I wanted to let everyone know to steer clear. One could probably get a Dremel and grind the finish off the hub and rims, but I don't know if it would be worth it.

I'll keep my eyes open. :blink I'll find my 45's out there somewhere...they're waiting for me! :D

-HH

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cannon

Hey guys, resurrecting an old thread because I have been very interested lately in acquiring good hub-lifting plates.  I would like to hear from you guys about what plates you have, maybe some photos, and the dimensions of the hub.  I already acquired some HAMPTONs and those are excellent.  Really, I'm looking for details on plates other than Hamptons. 

I found this set on Craigslist and emailed the guy and the hub is 3-3/8 and 1" deep with straight sides.  I can't decide if that is too wide.  For reference the Hamptons are 3" wide and an IM hub is 2-7/8" according to their site.  These look like they would be great (not the ones that say "MAX"). 

 

01010_hV1lSJ7ZbBh_600x450.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squeezus
2 minutes ago, Cannon said:

Hey guys, resurrecting an old thread because I have been very interested lately in acquiring good hub-lifting plates.  I would like to hear from you guys about what plates you have, maybe some photos, and the dimensions of the hub.  I already acquired some HAMPTONs and those are excellent.  Really, I'm looking for details on plates other than Hamptons. 

I found this set on Craigslist and emailed the guy and the hub is 3-3/8 and 1" deep with straight sides.  I can't decide if that is too wide.  For reference the Hamptons are 3" wide and an IM hub is 2-7/8" according to their site.  These look like they would be great (not the ones that say "MAX"). 

 

01010_hV1lSJ7ZbBh_600x450.jpg

The IM website is wrong. Their hub is 3". A 3-3/8" would not be too wide, I built a 4" hub for Riccardo Magni and he loves it.

I have these and they are hard, but nice hubs.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BIyRhIfAqhq/

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cannon

@Squeezus Thanks for posting.  I also thought IM was 3" (which is the spec we publish on CPW's site) and thought it was curious IM said 2-7/8.  I just wasn't at home to actually measure one. 

What are the dimensions on the hub in your pic? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
anwnate

Some Cap 45s are great for hubbing.

3 1/4" diameter

1" depth (approx)

caps.jpg

In 2014, @Cannon and I attempted to get a thread started for pics but it didn't take off.  I've got some other brand pics.  I'll try and dig through and find them later today.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squeezus
15 minutes ago, Cannon said:

@Squeezus Thanks for posting.  I also thought IM was 3" (which is the spec we publish on CPW's site) and thought it was curious IM said 2-7/8.  I just wasn't at home to actually measure one. 

What are the dimensions on the hub in your pic? 

They are 3-1/4" wide and 1-1/4" deep. They have a 1/2" fillet around the base of the hub that reduces the (mostly) flat depth to 3/4".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cannon

How important would you guys say it is for the hub walls to be vertical?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cannon
5 minutes ago, Cannon said:

How important would you guys say it is for the hub walls to be vertical?

 

I know much of this is personal preference and any hub is "hubbable" if you want a challenge, but I wanted to gather info maybe for new folks too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
anwnate
10 minutes ago, Cannon said:

How important would you guys say it is for the hub walls to be vertical?

 

I think slope is very important...however there is also a direct relation to the depth of the hub.

In the case of say York Deep Dishes...they are very deep, yet the slope sucks...making them less than ideal for hubbing.

If I had a flat choice...I'd go with vertical over general depth every time.  My opinion of course.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kluv#0

Aaron C. has one of the best plates for hubbing from what I can tell on video and from others who say billard are one of the easiest - a billard that is very, very deep

Edited by Kluv#0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cannon

Those ones I found on craigslist apparently have a "110 degree" slope by the seller's estimation.  Combined with 3-3/8" width and only 1" of depth I think I'm going to pass on them.  It's just outside how far I would drive to "take a look". 

These are also available nearby. 

00606_fHZ19DKJiLl_600x450.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Boulderbrew
1 hour ago, Cannon said:

 

These are also available nearby. 

00606_fHZ19DKJiLl_600x450.jpg

I have two of these and would not reccomend them. They hve a painted coating that is extremely slick. I used paint remover and got  most of it off, however the hub still is very slick. Maybe if it rusts up it will hold chalk better. I would say these plates are a no go.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Boulderbrew

I have used Power Systems plates and they work great. You would probably just have to buy them new

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AKJV1769
7 hours ago, Cannon said:

Hey guys, resurrecting an old thread because I have been very interested lately in acquiring good hub-lifting plates.  I would like to hear from you guys about what plates you have, maybe some photos, and the dimensions of the hub.  I already acquired some HAMPTONs and those are excellent.  Really, I'm looking for details on plates other than Hamptons. 

I found this set on Craigslist and emailed the guy and the hub is 3-3/8 and 1" deep with straight sides.  I can't decide if that is too wide.  For reference the Hamptons are 3" wide and an IM hub is 2-7/8" according to their site.  These look like they would be great (not the ones that say "MAX"). 

 

01010_hV1lSJ7ZbBh_600x450.jpg

Yes my last Youtube video I put up covered the plate hubs with a lot of suggestions and advice on this subject, see: Overview Of My Plate Hub Collection

Also if you review some of my short videos at: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYWv9EPgAo5xYxExBIaZYeg I specifically get into the dimensions of the hubs (of different brands of plates) which just makes a huge difference when hub-lifting, as does if the plate is a 4 spoke or 3 spoke.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AKJV1769
7 hours ago, anwnate said:

I think slope is very important...however there is also a direct relation to the depth of the hub.

In the case of say York Deep Dishes...they are very deep, yet the slope sucks...making them less than ideal for hubbing.

If I had a flat choice...I'd go with vertical over general depth every time.  My opinion of course.

Yes Nate, great points! If a plate slopes all the way up to the top of the hub it makes it almost impossible to hub.  I have found on the plates that have a huge slope to them you have to drive your fingers as low as possible on the hub before engaging your grip. Here is a video of me lifting an unbranded Ivanko and unbranded BFCO plate (I found out the brands from James Fuller after I made this video).  Both of these hubs are sloped and extremely hard (at least for me) to lift: Double Hub 45lb Lift Olympic Standard - 3 Seconds Airtime Also chalking the hub and your hands well is also crucial.

7 hours ago, Squeezus said:

The IM website is wrong. Their hub is 3". A 3-3/8" would not be too wide, I built a 4" hub for Riccardo Magni and he loves it.

I have these and they are hard, but nice hubs.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BIyRhIfAqhq/

Those are a rare find Gil. Really nice plates!

7 hours ago, Cannon said:

How important would you guys say it is for the hub walls to be vertical?

 

Yes see my answer above. If the hub walls are vertical it just makes it so much easier (depending on the actual surface of the hub). Form what I have seen the easiest ones that were ever produced are the Jackson and (as James Fuller refers to them as) waxed Weider tamper style 45lb plate.  James and AC have both hub lifted these after putting over 45lbs extra weight on these plates bring them over 90lbs.  Here is a recent video of James Fuller lifting one of these tamper style plate hubs (a waxed Weider): 70lb Hub Clean & Press

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AKJV1769
5 hours ago, Boulderbrew said:

I have two of these and would not reccomend them. They hve a painted coating that is extremely slick. I used paint remover and got  most of it off, however the hub still is very slick. Maybe if it rusts up it will hold chalk better. I would say these plates are a no go.

Yes these are tough due to the gray hammer-tone finish. To get that hammer-tone paint off the hub here is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/Rust.../dp/B003CT49BC/ref=sr_1_1... but it may take several coats. Cake it on thick and wait at least an hour and use a wire brush on it between coats. Also taping off the area around the hub is advisable. Yes I got mine to rust really quick (once I got the hammer-tone off) by finding my rustiest plate and spraying the smooth side with a little water (on the rustiest part). I then just took my small wire brush and made small circles, which made a think rust water mixture.  I then just took my fingers and transferred this rust paste over to the hub that was bare metal, until the whole hub was just covered with rust paste.  I then hit it with a water spray bottle once a day to get it rusting even more.  In about a week the hub was rust seasoned and this was recently, in the middle of winter when the humidity was low. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×