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#141 OFFLINE   Evan Raftopoulos

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 07:32 AM

For overhead bending do you guys actually use your neck flexor muscles to help with the bend or

 

I meant double overhand, not overhead, lol

 



 



from the first post

 

Cheat kink a bar to varying degrees and work on finishing them.

 

any ideas how to do that if you have no tools available?

 

I did so much cheat kinking of various bars that I could do it with my eyes closed.  Here's something to keep in mind on the topic of cheat kinking.  HOW you cheat kink the bar is going to effect the rest of the bend. 

 

So if you use pipes, like I did most of the time, you will kink the bar "tighter" - in more of a straight line, with no curve - than if you cheat kinked it by braced bending it against your leg.  You might be thinking that there would be no difference.  But there is a noticeable difference in a bar that is cheat kinked with pipes vs. one that is kinked either by another bender (unbraced) or by a braced kink. 

 

The braced kink provides the best payoff in terms of making you work a bit harder (not counting the braced bending part in this working hard comment) on the sweep and crushdown.  Because it will more closely mimic the way a bar bends when it is bent unbraced.  The crushdown is always harder on a bar that is NOT cheat kinked with pipes. 

 

I've talked to a few other elite benders about this over the years.  All of us agree that cheat kinking with a pipe negates some of the difficulty of the sweep and especially the crushdown.  That doesn't mean it's worthless.  Far from it.  In fact, like I mentioned, I cheat kinked most of my bars with the pipes because it's so much easier and faster.  And easier. :) 

 

You said you have no "tools available."  It's worth it (if you are going to bend a lot of steel over the coming years) to shell out a bit of cash at the hardware store and just buy some pipe to cheat kink the bars with.  Mine were mismatched, but the general measurements were both about 2 feet long.  The inside diameter was about 1/2".  I cheat kinked KOABs, MOABs, and everything I wanted to work on. 

 

It might've been Aaron (acorn) who used to put metal "caps" on the ends of bars to use as additional leverage...pure genius.  Not his only pure genius contribution to bending, but one that is not talked about much. 

 

thanks Ben, this helps a lot!



#142 OFFLINE   Evan Raftopoulos

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 07:34 AM

I think I could also use the RB pinch grip converter for grippers as pipes, and maybe the silvis adjustable handles



#143 OFFLINE   Evan Raftopoulos

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 07:36 AM

just tried silvis t rex handles and work well with anything 1/4 (everything bends easy and fast if you have the extended handles), I don't have a thicker bar with me but there is still room for thicker bar with these handles. I don't know if this could damage the handles in the long run


Edited by Evan Raftopoulos, 20 September 2015 - 07:39 AM.


#144 OFFLINE   bencrush

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 07:45 AM

 

so I am taking the advice in the first post, and starting with some 3/16" rod, which is $3-$5 for a 4' length at Home Depot(if I remember correctly). If I am able to bend 7" sections of that, then I will cut 6" sections, then 5".  Trying to save a buck.

 

 

My advice is to save your money and buy 1/4" HRS at Home Depot.  Skip the 3/16" CRS entirely.  I've seen enough of your videos to know that you will without a doubt roll right through 3/16" CRS.  It will be like setting money on fire. 



#145 OFFLINE   ZFJango

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 07:49 AM

 

 

so I am taking the advice in the first post, and starting with some 3/16" rod, which is $3-$5 for a 4' length at Home Depot(if I remember correctly). If I am able to bend 7" sections of that, then I will cut 6" sections, then 5".  Trying to save a buck.

 

 

My advice is to save your money and buy 1/4" HRS at Home Depot.  Skip the 3/16" CRS entirely.  I've seen enough of your videos to know that you will without a doubt roll right through 3/16" CRS.  It will be like setting money on fire. 

 

You have a fine way with words! Ha ha ha! All right, all right. I'll take your and Josh's advice, and go for the 1/4" Progress was never made by going the too-easy path. Thank you!


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#146 OFFLINE   bencrush

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 07:54 AM

 

 

 

so I am taking the advice in the first post, and starting with some 3/16" rod, which is $3-$5 for a 4' length at Home Depot(if I remember correctly). If I am able to bend 7" sections of that, then I will cut 6" sections, then 5".  Trying to save a buck.

 

 

My advice is to save your money and buy 1/4" HRS at Home Depot.  Skip the 3/16" CRS entirely.  I've seen enough of your videos to know that you will without a doubt roll right through 3/16" CRS.  It will be like setting money on fire. 

 

You have a fine way with words! Ha ha ha! All right, all right. I'll take your and Josh's advice, and go for the 1/4" Progress was never made by going the too-easy path. Thank you!

 

Right on man.  I'm not trying to steer you on the path of the bar being too hard either.  Cut it to 7" and let it rip.  It needs to be hard enough that you feel some significant resistance.  But not so hard that it feels impossible.  The super easy bends (3/16" CRS) feel great.  Because they are super easy.  But your biggest bang for the buck is going to be 1/4" HRS. 

 

I have seen total couch potatoes bend 3/16"x7" CRS.



#147 ONLINE   vickg

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Posted 11 December 2015 - 02:38 PM

What would you guys say are the biggest benefits in bending?