MadMardegan Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 So I just got my wrist developer in the post today and I'm seriously impressed. It came with a black spring that I can just about close on the lowest setting... I was shocked at how tough it was (I've just ordered a lighter spring). Anyway, I've got a couple of questions: How exactly is each level determined? Is it acceptable to glue the suede wraps to the handles? They tend to slip a lot. Is it a good idea to use double overhand or double underhand as well as reverse bending techniques? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnus Gustafsson Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 So I just got my wrist developer in the post today and I'm seriously impressed. It came with a black spring that I can just about close on the lowest setting... I was shocked at how tough it was (I've just ordered a lighter spring). Anyway, I've got a couple of questions: How exactly is each level determined? Is it acceptable to glue the suede wraps to the handles? They tend to slip a lot. Is it a good idea to use double overhand or double underhand as well as reverse bending techniques? I love my WD. Haven't bothered to look into the levels; just interested in progressing with it and occasionally test with a benchmark nail. Preventing the wraps from slipping is really part of the bend and should be trained so I would not glue. I put rubber bands somewhat loosely around the wraps to keep them in place between bends and left it at that. I started using the reverse technique when I received the WD and it is now the only way I bend nails. You could probably employ something similar to DO and DU techniques though, but I don't know that it'd be very effective? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedd Johnson Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Good questions. The WD is a fun device. I hope I can answer some of your questions:How exactly is each level determined? With the Black spring, the lowest setting is called Level 3. You then move the spring in the back or top up one notch to get level 4. For level 5, you move the back portion of the spring back down one notch and then move the front up one notch. Then you move the back one upwards again to get Level 6. So, every time the spring is on equal notches in the front and back, your spring level is a multiple of 3 => 3,6,9, etc. Is it acceptable to glue the suede wraps to the handles? They tend to slip a lot. Not in competition or for records lists, but certainly in training you can do this to keep them secure. What is more commonly done is using rubber bands to keep them in place. Is it a good idea to use double overhand or double underhand as well as reverse bending techniques? The main purpose of the WD is Reverse style. You can certainly accomplish variations of Double Over and Double Under with the WD, but it is very cumbersome. Here is a video I put up a while back on the WD. Maybe it can help shed some light on how to get the most out of it. If you want more detailed instruction, I have a full-length video I sell on How to Train with the Wrist Developer. I cover how to use it for bringing up your reverse bending, and how to use it to get the biggest "closes" out of it for contest settings, as well as many other things, all of which are outlined on the video page. Good luck with it and enjoy it. Jedd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMardegan Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 So I just got my wrist developer in the post today and I'm seriously impressed. It came with a black spring that I can just about close on the lowest setting... I was shocked at how tough it was (I've just ordered a lighter spring). Anyway, I've got a couple of questions: How exactly is each level determined? Is it acceptable to glue the suede wraps to the handles? They tend to slip a lot. Is it a good idea to use double overhand or double underhand as well as reverse bending techniques? I love my WD. Haven't bothered to look into the levels; just interested in progressing with it and occasionally test with a benchmark nail. Preventing the wraps from slipping is really part of the bend and should be trained so I would not glue. I put rubber bands somewhat loosely around the wraps to keep them in place between bends and left it at that. I started using the reverse technique when I received the WD and it is now the only way I bend nails. You could probably employ something similar to DO and DU techniques though, but I don't know that it'd be very effective? Thanks for the reply man. I feel as if it'd be a pretty good tool to use for DO/DU bends too, obviously not what's it meant for though. Good questions. The WD is a fun device. I hope I can answer some of your questions: How exactly is each level determined? With the Black spring, the lowest setting is called Level 3. You then move the spring in the back or top up one notch to get level 4. For level 5, you move the back portion of the spring back down one notch and then move the front up one notch. Then you move the back one upwards again to get Level 6. So, every time the spring is on equal notches in the front and back, your spring level is a multiple of 3 => 3,6,9, etc. Is it acceptable to glue the suede wraps to the handles? They tend to slip a lot. Not in competition or for records lists, but certainly in training you can do this to keep them secure. What is more commonly done is using rubber bands to keep them in place. Is it a good idea to use double overhand or double underhand as well as reverse bending techniques? The main purpose of the WD is Reverse style. You can certainly accomplish variations of Double Over and Double Under with the WD, but it is very cumbersome. Here is a video I put up a while back on the WD. Maybe it can help shed some light on how to get the most out of it. If you want more detailed instruction, I have a full-length video I sell on How to Train with the Wrist Developer. I cover how to use it for bringing up your reverse bending, and how to use it to get the biggest "closes" out of it for contest settings, as well as many other things, all of which are outlined on the video page. Good luck with it and enjoy it. Jedd Thanks for the comprehensive reply Jedd! Still kind of iffy about the levels. Is there a difference in difficulty between the back of the spring being on the 2nd notch and the front being on the 1st notch compared to the back of the spring being on the 1st notch and the front of the spring being on the 2nd notch? When I said gluing the wraps I meant applying a small bit on the handle before applying the wraps as I found it hard to get a tight wrap on it, and found that the apparatus sometimes falls to the side because the handles move around in the wraps. Really appreciate the response dude! Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedd Johnson Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Still kind of iffy about the levels. Is there a difference in difficulty between the back of the spring being on the 2nd notch and the front being on the 1st notch compared to the back of the spring being on the 1st notch and the front of the spring being on the 2nd notch? Yes. When the front portion of the spring is further up one level, the difficulty is harder than when the back portion of the spring is up one level. As far as the wraps, you can certainly do that, but it is "cheating" I suppose. In other words, it's not permitted for comps and records lists. It's supposed to just be the wraps and a rubber band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anwnate Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 When I said gluing the wraps I meant applying a small bit on the handle before applying the wraps as I found it hard to get a tight wrap on it, and found that the apparatus sometimes falls to the side because the handles move around in the wraps.Mick This slippage while annoying...will force you to grip it tightly and also bring your power to bear evenly (which will mean safely). In the long run, this will help your skill with the WD, increase your grip strength, and improve your bending. Take it slow, and remember that any PR (volume, density, intensity or even quality of movement) is still a PR. Progress isn't always measured by a another plate on a bar...or by a single notch on a WD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jedd Johnson Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 I shot a new video of the spring adjustment levels to hopefully help you out. I also expanded on all the other questions you had. Hopefully this gets you going. http://www.dieselcrew.com/wrist-developer-common-questions-and-answers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMardegan Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 I shot a new video of the spring adjustment levels to hopefully help you out. I also expanded on all the other questions you had. Hopefully this gets you going. http://www.dieselcrew.com/wrist-developer-common-questions-and-answers Oh wow, that's really helpful! Thanks Jedd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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