Mystified By The Calibration Process

[Jedd Johnson]

I can't figure this calibration crap out.

I just wasted 30 minutes calibrating 3 grippers and came away with exactly equal numbers on two 3's that don't feel anything alike, and a 3.5 that would not sit upright so I could calibrate it.

Plus when I pulled the damn grippers out, a dime-sized area of the knurling was destroyed on two of them.

I did everything exactly how I have seen it done in the past, making sure the handles did not grind against the upright guides.

Unforch, like I said, the 3.5 WOULD NOT sit upright.

On all of the grippers, the knurling got damaged and on two of them, like I said a dime-sized swath was taken off completely down to smoothness.

If anyone has any ideas on what the hell I am doing wrong, please let me know, because right now, this process is a headache and a half.

Would it affect the calibrations if I wrapped athletic tape around the bottom handle that goes through the holding tube, so that the knurling on all my grippers doesn't get ruined?????

I'd love to calibrate all the grippers I own so that they can be used for a contest, but if this crap keeps up, it ain't happening.

Funny how I have never noticed any other calibrated grippers getting the knurling destroyed.

Thanks.

[Teemu I]

I know Matti wraps tape around the gripper handles before calibration, I don't think this changes the resulting poundage. I assume others are doing it as well.

Edited April 4, 2009 by Teemu I

[vikingsrule92]

I know Matti wraps tape around the gripper handles before calibration, I don't think this changes the resulting poundage. I assume others are doing it as well.

Everyone who uses the calibrator with the tube for the handle wraps tape around it because otherwise it gets destroyed like Jedd said.

[lukeamdman]

I put duct tape on the bottom handle. It's cheap and it allows you to rotate the gripper while there's weight from the calibrator on it. So with that #3.5, put about 110-120lb's of weight on it, and then when it's not lining up, push the top handle to rotate the gripper so it does line up. The duct tape takes away the friction and lets it spin, and it doesn't hurt the knurling.

Also, the only way to get consistent results is to oil the grippers before each calibration. A #3 I had went from 168lb's to 152lb's after getting oiled.

[bencrush]

I know Matti wraps tape around the gripper handles before calibration, I don't think this changes the resulting poundage. I assume others are doing it as well.

Everyone who uses the calibrator with the tube for the handle wraps tape around it because otherwise it gets destroyed like Jedd said.

If the grippers are mine - I don't wrap tape around the handle. My calibrator only puts a "nick," or whatever you want to call it, on the handle. Otherwise I put tape on there and 90% of the time that prevents the nicks.

Jedd, I wonder if the #3.5 that wouldn't sit upright is wound wonky? The only gripper that I've had that experience with was a reverse-wound Oddessey gripper that I ended up having an assistant apply minimal sideways pressure to it while I calibrated it.

[Magnus]

Basically what Luke said: oil for consistency, tape for consistency and protection. The handle in the tube has no affect on the calibrations,

just tape it to protect the handles. Wrap the top handle with duct tape so it stays upright through the sweep (video). Watch out for pegged legs, too.

Make sure you know whether the shorter one or the longer one is in the tube, since an easier gripper could end up seeming harder, and vice-versa.

We'll calibrate some when I come up

Edited April 4, 2009 by Magnus

[bencrush]

I put duct tape on the bottom handle. It's cheap and it allows you to rotate the gripper while there's weight from the calibrator on it. So with that #3.5, put about 110-120lb's of weight on it, and then when it's not lining up, push the top handle to rotate the gripper so it does line up. The duct tape takes away the friction and lets it spin, and it doesn't hurt the knurling.

Also, the only way to get consistent results is to oil the grippers before each calibration. A #3 I had went from 168lb's to 152lb's after getting oiled.

This is good advice but be careful when torquing the handles under pressure. This morning I was recalibrating some of my grippers (with the non-dogleg handle in the tube to see what difference I got) and broke the spring on my newest prized gripper - the 182lb #3.5! I about shit because it broke when I was eye-level doing a little positioning of the handles. Ironic since I just sent my brother-in-law the money for the #3.5.

[svr]

Ben,

Is there any way you can post a pic of the broken gripper, I've always wondered what that looks like.

Do they just crack in half or shatter in pieces?

Thanx!

[lukeamdman]

I put duct tape on the bottom handle. It's cheap and it allows you to rotate the gripper while there's weight from the calibrator on it. So with that #3.5, put about 110-120lb's of weight on it, and then when it's not lining up, push the top handle to rotate the gripper so it does line up. The duct tape takes away the friction and lets it spin, and it doesn't hurt the knurling.

Also, the only way to get consistent results is to oil the grippers before each calibration. A #3 I had went from 168lb's to 152lb's after getting oiled.

This is good advice but be careful when torquing the handles under pressure. This morning I was recalibrating some of my grippers (with the non-dogleg handle in the tube to see what difference I got) and broke the spring on my newest prized gripper - the 182lb #3.5! I about shit because it broke when I was eye-level doing a little positioning of the handles. Ironic since I just sent my brother-in-law the money for the #3.5.

Yikes!

For a #3.5 level gripper, 110-120lb's isn't even parallel yet. I wouldn't suggest moving the top handle if you have too much weight on there.

Do you remember how much was on there when it was being adjusted?

[Cannon]

If the grippers are mine - I don't wrap tape around the handle. My calibrator only puts a "nick," or whatever you want to call it, on the handle. Otherwise I put tape on there and 90% of the time that prevents the nicks.

Ditto.

[bencrush]

Yikes!

For a #3.5 level gripper, 110-120lb's isn't even parallel yet. I wouldn't suggest moving the top handle if you have too much weight on there.

Do you remember how much was on there when it was being adjusted?

Oh yeah, I had a hell of a lot more than 110-120lbs on it. It was 185lbs because it was just a hair away from closing and that's when I realized it looked like the handle was grinding on the upright. It was calibrating higher with the non-dogleg handle in the tube but I don't know for sure if that's the case since I saw the handle grinding on the upright.

[Cannon]

Jedd, who made your RGC?

I've had problems with the gripper tipping over. If nothing else works, try resetting your strap and make sure it's hanging over the handle as evenly as possible.

Also, I recommend using something round for the strap spreader. Like a small ball or a piece of PVC. When I was using a block of wood, I found that the corners would actually create pressure points on the strap causing drastic changes in "tension" of the strap, if that makes any sense. Like the gripper would be sitting there just fine, but then I would add the block and it wouldn't pull straight down anymore no matter what. If you use something round it will roll inside the strap if the weight distribution changes.

[Magnus]

This morning I was recalibrating some of my grippers (with the non-dogleg handle in the tube to see what difference I got) and broke the spring on my newest prized gripper - the 182lb #3.5! I about shit because it broke when I was eye-level doing a little positioning of the handles. Ironic since I just sent my brother-in-law the money for the #3.5.

Good grief

[Bob Lipinski]

I use duct tape, but like Ben says mine has only nicked a little bit of the knurling.

Actually, I use duct tape even if I don't care about the knurling because it makes the gripper easier to rotate in the RGC.

[climber511]

Put them in a box and send them to me.

[Jedd Johnson]

Thanks for the tips guys. Actually, I doused the sh*t out of the springs WD40 before calibrating them. Also, I always put the dogleg handle into the tube and hang the weight from the rounder leg.

I can try the duct tape thing, no problem.

Chris, How many could I send to you? I want to calibrate every gripper I have.

[climber511]

Thanks for the tips guys. Actually, I doused the sh*t out of the springs WD40 before calibrating them. Also, I always put the dogleg handle into the tube and hang the weight from the rounder leg.

I can try the duct tape thing, no problem.

Chris, How many could I send to you? I want to calibrate every gripper I have.

Jedd - send me whatever you don't need right now to train with - then when I return those - you can send me the rest - no problem!

[kilkkinen]

All the tips are above I havent seen any damage after 499 calibrated grippers.

[Paul Knight]

Put them in a box and send them to me.

haha

Jedd - it seems that most of the harder grippers are a little more squirly .... wanting to pop to either side and can be kind of a balancing act, but like Matt said - make sure the strap is resting evenly on the handle as this can fix that problem

[Marc M]

Put them in a box and send them to me.

haha

Jedd - it seems that most of the harder grippers are a little more squirly .... wanting to pop to either side and can be kind of a balancing act, but like Matt said - make sure the strap is resting evenly on the handle as this can fix that problem

Paul,

What do you mean by "make sure the strap is resting evenly on the handle as this can fix that problem"? Evenly? do you mean flush with the end of the handle?

Thanks

Marc

[Tim71]

I'm no gripper expert but could you guys glue a small piece of thin leather or suede to the inside of the tube to kinda "line" it? Works good for bending and I could see it being stable by allowing the knurling to "bite" into it but protecting it all at the same time.

Tim

[Cannon]

Put them in a box and send them to me.

haha

Jedd - it seems that most of the harder grippers are a little more squirly .... wanting to pop to either side and can be kind of a balancing act, but like Matt said - make sure the strap is resting evenly on the handle as this can fix that problem

Paul,

What do you mean by "make sure the strap is resting evenly on the handle as this can fix that problem"? Evenly? do you mean flush with the end of the handle?

Thanks

Marc

Like if the strap is 4 feet long, make sure there is 2 feet hanging over each end of the gripper handle. If there is more on one side than the other, the strap doesn't necessarily self-correct. It will usually pull the gripper to one side instead.

[EricMilfeld]

Put them in a box and send them to me.

haha

Jedd - it seems that most of the harder grippers are a little more squirly .... wanting to pop to either side and can be kind of a balancing act, but like Matt said - make sure the strap is resting evenly on the handle as this can fix that problem

Paul,

What do you mean by "make sure the strap is resting evenly on the handle as this can fix that problem"? Evenly? do you mean flush with the end of the handle?

Thanks

Marc

In addition to insuring the strap is flush with the handle's end, it's critical to make sure the strap is adjusted so that the gripper doesn't tip over to the side. Pulling the strap 1/16" to the left or right can make a significant difference. By the way, I'm Paul's publicity agent. Actually, he and I calibrate grippers grippers as a team.

[rico300zx]

does any one have a list of what grippers would fall into with a max and min , climber you seem to have done alot, any spreadsheets with results over the years?

rico

[Magnus]

does any one have a list of what grippers would fall into with a max and min , climber you seem to have done alot, any spreadsheets with results over the years?

rico

http://p2.foorumi.info/rautakoura/viewtopi...t=9&start=0

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pQa...IQcxkjb4Z-i8DPA

Is this what you're looking for?