Climb Grip Training

[Left Side]

An attempt to help me climb longer without my forearms pumping out. Anyone that has suggestions for the program, I'd love to hear them.

Day 1:

3 rounds no rest.

Crimp Closes: Trainer x 1

Ledge Hang: 15 seconds

Finger Curls: 40 x 10

NS closes: Trainer x 10

[Left Side]

Day 2

3 rounds no rest.

Ledge Hang: 20 seconds

Set Closes: #1 x 3

Fingertip Pushups: 5

Reverse Wrist Curl: 30 x 8

[climber511]

First - go climbing - the best way to increase climbing endurance is to get and keep more weight on your feet. I can write more later if you wish but it's more to do with capillarity and efficient climbing skills and one rep max stuff.

[the swiss]

what climber said. problem when we don't climb enough is that we tend to hold the holds too hard, if that makes any sense. climb climb climb climb. of course, you could also do hangs on semi-crimp holds for set of 2-4 minutes, too.

[pdfk20]

I agree with the other guys, you will build up endurance on the wall , purely by doing as many climbing sessions as your body will allow you to. When i was doing loads of climbing, i would be quite happy staying on the wall for up to 5 hours, 3 or 4 times a week, i can't do anywhere near that any more, since i dropped my number of sessions, but still.

[Left Side]

I'm climbing 4 times a week, I just don't put that in the log, this is the stuff I do at lunch hour at work. You think I should climb more often than 4?

Anything you are willing to take the time to tell me Chris, I would love to read. Please don't hesitate.

[climber511]

I'm climbing 4 times a week, I just don't put that in the log, this is the stuff I do at lunch hour at work. You think I should climb more often than 4?

Anything you are willing to take the time to tell me Chris, I would love to read. Please don't hesitate.

The first question is this - are you climbing 4 days a week or "practicing" 4 days a week - there is a huge difference? Just having a good time may not be teaching you new "engrams" or movement patterns - something you must continually be working on. What level are you climbing at now? What weakness's do you have and how are you addressing them?

"If you always do what you have always done - you will always get what you have always got"

[aquilonian]

First - go climbing - the best way to increase climbing endurance is to get and keep more weight on your feet. I can write more later if you wish but it's more to do with capillarity and efficient climbing skills and one rep max stuff.

You have no idea how much sense that made to me. Its so stupeffiengly simple, its borderline genius. you know when somethigs just hit you, and make perfect sense? Wow, I never saw it like that. it just proves that the hardest things to comprehend are the simplest ones.

[Left Side]

I boulder indoors most weeks, 4 times a week, every few weeks I get to spend a weekend at the cliffs doing routes. (It's hard to find a partner here at university)

My biggest weakness is endurance, I pump out way too fast. My arms and back and legs don't get tired, it's just my forearms that die.

Working on endurance in a bouldering gym is tricky. The best I can do is just traverse around on the wall for as long as possible. Two days a week I boulder to focus on strength, and the other two I work endurance. Am I practicing or just climbing? Hmmm, to be honest I am not completely sure. When I'm bouldering I pick a problem I can't do, and work it usually exclusively until I send it, which usuall takes several days. Then onto the next problem. When I'm training endurance I just stay on the wall as long as possible, take 20 seconds and get back on. Every 10 minutes or so I take a proper rest.

I'm onsighting most any 5.10 now, and have done one 5.11a. I pump out on the higher 5.11s, but I can do all the moves. Bouldering I have no idea, but I think (god I hope) I am a better boulderer than sport climber.

[honk]

Jeez, that isn't half bad... ....5.11...

I think climbing is the best way to train endurance for climbing. And don't grip harder than you have to.

[Left Side]

Day 3

10 rounds.

20 seconds ledge hang, 5 seconds rest.

Jeez, that isn't half bad... ....5.11...

I think climbing is the best way to train endurance for climbing. And don't grip harder than you have to.

I wish I could climb more often, but I have no car and it's hard to find a partner that will drive. All the indoor stuff we have is a bouldering room.

[climber511]

Practicing is so much different than just climbing - it's learning either new movement patterns or learning new ways to use existing engrams to move thru problems quicker and/or more effeciently. there are tons of drills you can use from simple one hand only - or one finger on each hand only to only lie back hand holds left then right no matter the holds to backstep only drill left then right, straight arms only with rotating trunk and on and on. Learning to read problems and climb faster during on sights can be very useful - that's often a weakness of indoor climbers when they go outside. Is your problem slabs, face, cracks, overhanging or a combination. The other thing is ratings, indoor ratings are often stiff, and relating them to real rock can be difficult, especially considering the difference between a short indoor wall and a long multi pitch trad route. Where do you climb outside, what type of rock etc - some areas are soft and some stiff on number grades - a lot of variables to consider.

[Left Side]

I climb in southern Ontario, it's all granite here.

So where is a good resource that will help me learn to train properly and effectively? I will likely not be playing volleyball this winter so I will have lots of time to dedicate to climbing training, and of course the whole summer.

I know it would be a large hassle to teach me this stuff yourself, could you maybe reccommend a good book? (I've read several, they were okay).

Thanks Chris.

[climber511]

I climb in southern Ontario, it's all granite here.

So where is a good resource that will help me learn to train properly and effectively? I will likely not be playing volleyball this winter so I will have lots of time to dedicate to climbing training, and of course the whole summer.

I know it would be a large hassle to teach me this stuff yourself, could you maybe reccommend a good book? (I've read several, they were okay).

Thanks Chris.

Performance Rock Climbing by Dale Goodard and Udo Neumann is a really good book that everyone should read - not just climbers but any grip athlete - well any athlete I guess. It discusses climbing strength and endurance in ways you have perhaps not trained or thought much of.

Flash Training and How to Climb 5.12 by Eric Horst - Eric writes some nice stuff and also has a website with good information.

Also Google "System Boards" for climbing - the original ones were mirror images on the left and right sides so you could practice identical moves both left and right.

I haven't bought any newer books on climbing for a while so there are probably some other offerings out there also. Games such as "Add On" and "Stick" are also good learning tools as far as learning new movement patterns. A partner will force you to do things you wouldn't maybe try on your own.

I'll be glad to help in any way I can - ask away. Chris

[drdude]

I must disagree with the majority here: climbing is seldom an effective way to increase forearm strength and endurance because it is so inconsistent. Instead try to do more grip/hold specific work. Try doing pullups on door jambs. I have fund it extremely effective and very hard. It requires only a small level of strength but some incredible endurance. Most climbers I know can only do a few.Also I would suggest Eric Host's book Training for Climbing. I have read How to Climb 5.12 and although quite helpful, it focuses on the technical aspects that you learn best by climbing. Training for Climbing also has technical aspects, but has a much larger focus on training.Unfortunately I doubt you will find one on this site (I've looked), but gripboards are great climbing tools as well.

[Ivarboneless]

I must disagree with the majority here: climbing is seldom an effective way to increase forearm strength and endurance because it is so inconsistent.

Are you kidding bro?

Climbing is a GREAT way to increase forearm strength. I'm not sure where you're getting the inconsistant statement from, if V6 is hard for you then climbing on lots of V6 will certainly train your fingers.

As for endurance.....actual climbing is no doubt the ABSOLUTE BEST endurance workout I have ever done or can even imagine. Try climbing a Black Canyon route and tell me "climbing is not an effective way to increase forearm endurance."

Go climbing son.