FrankyBoy Posted November 18, 2006 Posted November 18, 2006 Probably splitting hairs but would it make sense to calibrate the plates used? Cumulatively it might make a difference. Definately yes. Hopefully I'll own such a device soon then I'll test how exact one can determine the weight necessary for the closure using my set of calibrated competition plates. Quote
superfeemiman Posted November 18, 2006 Posted November 18, 2006 Hope you ordered the new tweeners so we can see where they fall. Yeah. I felt like purchasing some but it would be great to hear what you guys have to say first. Quote #2 Right hand -- 12/17/06 Parallel, 2/11/07 CCS, 5/9/07 No-set ///// Left hand -- 2/11/07 Parallel, 4/7/07 CCS, 5/9/07 No-set #3 #4(lol)
gamidon Posted November 18, 2006 Posted November 18, 2006 Both Dave and I ordered the 3.5 We can both calibrate the one we get. One major difference is that Dave will actually close his HAHAHA Quote
FrankyBoy Posted November 18, 2006 Posted November 18, 2006 I'll correct that on monday since I don't have Adobe Acrobat on my PC here. Good find Matt. I proof read it and overlooked that part. 150# is the correct value when its closed, see the table at the end of the article. The 155# should be somehow lower (maybe 135# or so). Greg can give the exact value (which is not important at all, but its <150# of course). This thing is really cool, Franky. I may have to make one and send Greg my results. I have a friend who could whip this up in no time. It's interesting to me to see that the both BBSMs tested very close to the CoC3. The 155 is a typo, it should say 125. One of the BBSM measured 132.5 which put it in the middle of the #2 and the #3. The other is actually a BBSM+ this is a new gripper from Tetting where he buries the spring. He stamps them with a P on one handle to indicate it is harder than a SM. This particular one is not seasoned at all so I will use it and then see how it drops off in difficulty. There are several grippers that the first close was on the calibrator, we will track the changes as they are seasoned. It should be very interesting. Perhaps I can stomp the crap out of one and see what that does Its a joke so don't get all pissed. HAHAHAHA Thanks Franky for proofreading and hosting the document. Greg Quote
handgripperman Posted November 18, 2006 Posted November 18, 2006 That is very nice. very simple design. I'm gonna have to send ya my #4. It's by far the hardest #4 I have ever felt. Quote
apttdwler Posted December 4, 2006 Posted December 4, 2006 Any more results with the tester? I'm nearly finished with a "getto" version of the machine. No welding involved. I still need to get a little more straping. I also am woundering about the small strap you have on the back of the strap. Does it have to support any weight? I'm trying to figure how to attach it. I have limited, no machine sewing skills. I might try a pop rivet? http://www.geocities.com/fightraining Quote http://www.geocities.com/fightraining http://fightraining.blogspot.com/
1stCoC Posted September 17, 2007 Posted September 17, 2007 Very interesting. Just one question..... what is the dogleg side of the gripper? I heard that once before but still don't understand what exactly is being referred to. When I was asked to give the estimated "poundage numbers" (for the average mid point of the grippers for the #1,#2 #3.back in 91') I guess my original estimates were pretty close as that was put in print and have been used ever since.RS Quote Richard Sorin, Sorinex Equipment SORINEX.com
MalachiMcMullen Posted September 17, 2007 Posted September 17, 2007 When the companies, or Tetting, wind the spring one side of the spring is straight up until near the top of the coil and the other side most of the time has a slight arc or warp in it. The straight side is the dogleg, I don't have a picture but I think there is one on here. Quote Zach Coulter Goals #1- The Planche
Scott Styles Posted September 17, 2007 Posted September 17, 2007 http://www.gripfaq.com/Hand_Grippers/#GRIPDOGLEG Quote You don't get a dog and do the barking yourself.
1stCoC Posted September 18, 2007 Posted September 18, 2007 Great info on the Grip FAQ. Even this "old dog" can learn some new tricks. Thanks Scott! RS Quote Richard Sorin, Sorinex Equipment SORINEX.com
gumpster Posted September 19, 2007 Posted September 19, 2007 The "dogleg" seems to be a bit of gripper folklore from what I have read. In some cases people say that placing the dogleg towards the thumb gives you greater leverage and makes closing the gripper easier...how this was proven remains a mystery. Conversely, I have read several posts stating that guys felt the gripper was easier to close in their left hand with the dogleg towards the fingers. I don't have much experience and only one gripper but I didn't even know about the dogleg theory until many months after I started gripping. Even now that I do, I can't tell any difference in difficulty between the position of the dogleg handle in my hands - if I set it well, it gets closed. I find it hard to believe that using the redneck gripper calibrator there would be any difference in the weight required to close a gripper (this defies logic). Why would there be any difference in your hand? Do you guys require dogleg-to-thumb in competitions? I'm classifying this as a grip myth until it is officially debunked. Maybe it's just a psychological trick that helps people close grippers if they "believe" they have an advantage over the gripper. Quote Name: Perry6'4", 170lbsGoals:MMS close #3 - 11May2010...after 3yr 4mo on grippersRed/Bastard
Teemu I Posted September 19, 2007 Posted September 19, 2007 IMO it's not a myth. I'm sure it makes adifference and I think the difference grows relatively bigger when you move to a harder grippers. I can't explain it to you though, but I can feel the difference. Quote Teemu Ilvesniemi, Finland My Blog
tja Posted September 19, 2007 Posted September 19, 2007 I'm pretty sure there would be no difference between calibrating a gripper dogleg side up or down. The gripper is fixed in place and forced to move in a fixed plane. However, when gripping, things are a bit different, as the hand needs not only squeeze the gripper shut but also prevent it from slipping. Because the spring is not symmetrical, the forces required for the sideways support cannot be the same. Quote
Teemu I Posted September 19, 2007 Posted September 19, 2007 I'm pretty sure there would be no difference between calibrating a gripper dogleg side up or down. The gripper is fixed in place and forced to move in a fixed plane. However, when gripping, things are a bit different, as the hand needs not only squeeze the gripper shut but also prevent it from slipping. Because the spring is not symmetrical, the forces required for the sideways support cannot be the same. Excactly! Well said about the need to prevent the thumb side handle from slipping. Grippers vary in many ways, and the dogleg is more prominent on some springs. Direction of the force is different on these grippers, more towards the center of the palm (given that the dogleg side is facing the thumb on the right hand) and it is easier to keep to thumb side handle from slipping from the optimal position. Quote Teemu Ilvesniemi, Finland My Blog
Cannon Posted September 19, 2007 Posted September 19, 2007 I feel like my filed #2 represents this "torsion" quite well. To file the gripper, I closed it in my right hand, with the dogleg in my palm. With the handles touching I marked the point where the handles meet with a permanent marker. This guaranteed, I thought, that I would file the gripper in the correct place. Now that it's filed, if I close it with my LEFT hand, the filed area does not meet the other handle properly. No matter how I position the gripper. I feel like this is a good example of the asymmetry of the spring. Quote
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