honk Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Wolfgang Güllich hangig form the campusbord. Wolle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Look at the wrist tendons etc on the campus board picture - may explain why he was so strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Left Side Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Now we're talking hand strength. Climbing is a fantastic sport for hand strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revtor Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 scary scary scary strength!! This is the guy is who got me into climbing / pullups / grip with a picture of a one pinky pullup 14 years ago. For those who dont know, a campus board is a tool used by strongest climbers to get stronger. It consists of a board with wooden strips (rungs) attached which is set back at an angle. the strips vary in thickness from thin to no way, and are about 8" or so apart. (every board is different, but the concept is the same) You hang from these strips using the fingers only and ladder yourself up rung by rung. The highest levels involving skipping two/three rungs per step, "dynoing" with both hands at once, and even dropping down rungs. Very easy to get injured, can build freakish strength. Wolfgang Gullich here started using this (I believe he was basically the inventor of the thing) as training for a route he eventually nailed and named "Action Directe" (in France I think) It consists of a dozen or so moves at around 45 degrees overhanging, mainly one and two finger pockets. About 8 people I believe have climbed it in the ten years or so its been on the books. Many more have been injured attempting it. Nutty. ~Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Left Side Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Dai Koyamada is also an exceptional climber when it comes to finger strength, and overall strength in general. Here he is on action direct.: Dai Koyamada Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 8 people? You must be counting me as # 8. I haven't actually climbed the thing yet, but thanks for the confidence! I would love go to Germany to climb, the Frankenjura looks awesome. Action Direct is perfect. NIce and short with powerful climbing on sharp monos (that's one finger). If you are not light enough the rock slices your finger open as big Klem Loskot found out. Klem did the first (and hardest btw) move on his first go but could never link the whole thing... Mmmmotivation. To bad Gullich never had a chance to reach his full potential. Hmm, can you tell I'm enthusiastic about this subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Sorry, can't leave the topic alone. Trivia: What action movie did Wolfgang perform as a stunt double in? What party trick helped get him the part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florian Kellersmann Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 The best freak-climber is Gabe Walker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadams Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 so flo you like Cliffhanger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honk Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 The best freak-climber is Gabe Walker ← That makes you a fan of Güllich automatically cause he was one of the climbing doubles in Cliffhanger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florian Kellersmann Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 The best freak-climber is Gabe Walker ← That makes you a fan of Güllich automatically cause he was one of the climbing doubles in Cliffhanger. ← Cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 The best freak-climber is Gabe Walker ← Gabe Walker has an uncanny resemblance to a very accomplished armwrestler by the name of Lincoln Hawk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMunger Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 (edited) Video of the guy in action for anyone interested (27 minute feature in German) http://climbing-area.info/photos/videos/kl...portspiegel.wmv Edited December 1, 2005 by CMunger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadams Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 thanks cmunger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honk Posted December 2, 2005 Author Share Posted December 2, 2005 I know that vid, it's nice. I like the part where they both climb that overhang, first Wolfgang with his elegant economically style of climbing, than Kurt climbs along with just brute strength barely using his feet. Kurt weighted 78kg at that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 Aww shucks man, I want to take those two seriously but really. Spandex? Looks like they have a candy cane and an acid trip for legs. C'mon. What were they thinking in the 80's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 I can appreciate the lack of crash pads and the old school footwear however. That definitely makes The Lightning harder. CoC# of boulder problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climber511 Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 Ten Ox - I have a picture somewhere of me in the eighties in these crazy lycra tights. Wow - forgot all about those things. Actually real nice to climb in, but crazy looking. First tried Midnight Lightening in probably 1986 or so. Spotted Bacher that same trip - like he needed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted December 3, 2005 Share Posted December 3, 2005 Wow, thats cool! Must have been a tough spot. I've only been to the vally been once but it felt like home. Post up that pick! I promise not to laugh online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdude Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 scary scary scary strength!! This is the guy is who got me into climbing / pullups / grip with a picture of a one pinky pullup 14 years ago.For those who dont know, a campus board is a tool used by strongest climbers to get stronger. It consists of a board with wooden strips (rungs) attached which is set back at an angle. the strips vary in thickness from thin to no way, and are about 8" or so apart. (every board is different, but the concept is the same) You hang from these strips using the fingers only and ladder yourself up rung by rung. The highest levels involving skipping two/three rungs per step, "dynoing" with both hands at once, and even dropping down rungs. Very easy to get injured, can build freakish strength. Wolfgang Gullich here started using this (I believe he was basically the inventor of the thing) as training for a route he eventually nailed and named "Action Directe" (in France I think) It consists of a dozen or so moves at around 45 degrees overhanging, mainly one and two finger pockets. About 8 people I believe have climbed it in the ten years or so its been on the books. Many more have been injured attempting it. Nutty. ~Steve What are the other names for a campus board? Ive heard several versions. One guy on here calls it a hangboard, and the employees at the climbing gym I go to call it a gripboard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burkhardmacht Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 The best freak-climber is Gabe Walker <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Gabe Walker has an uncanny resemblance to a very accomplished armwrestler by the name of Lincoln Hawk. Perhaps both of them are members of the independent trucker league! :rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Mac Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 Great stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number Ten Ox Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 scary scary scary strength!! This is the guy is who got me into climbing / pullups / grip with a picture of a one pinky pullup 14 years ago.For those who dont know, a campus board is a tool used by strongest climbers to get stronger. It consists of a board with wooden strips (rungs) attached which is set back at an angle. the strips vary in thickness from thin to no way, and are about 8" or so apart. (every board is different, but the concept is the same) You hang from these strips using the fingers only and ladder yourself up rung by rung. The highest levels involving skipping two/three rungs per step, "dynoing" with both hands at once, and even dropping down rungs. Very easy to get injured, can build freakish strength. Wolfgang Gullich here started using this (I believe he was basically the inventor of the thing) as training for a route he eventually nailed and named "Action Directe" (in France I think) It consists of a dozen or so moves at around 45 degrees overhanging, mainly one and two finger pockets. About 8 people I believe have climbed it in the ten years or so its been on the books. Many more have been injured attempting it. Nutty. ~Steve What are the other names for a campus board? Ive heard several versions. One guy on here calls it a hangboard, and the employees at the climbing gym I go to call it a gripboard A campus board is as described above, rungs like a ladder you climb up, usually about 8' tall. A hangboard is meant to be just hung from, many different types of grips, about 8" tall. A Gripboard is probably the best tool for getting strong, provided you actually log off from time to time and train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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