Individual Finger Training Experiences

[AdriaanRobert96]

So as a lot of you know by now, I am the curious guy with the questions all the time

I always like to read other peoples experiences on different things..

This time around it’s about individual finger training.

Before you go ahead and say anything, I know there isn’t a perfect answer or way of training.

This is just me being curious of carry-overs and general strength improvements etc.

I also know individual finger training is a cheap way to Snap City if done incorrectly but lets say…

Let’s say you add an overall of 5-10kg to each of your fingers individually with let’s say for example.. the eagle loops.

Might be a bad example but a parr of me refuses to believe that it wouldn’t carry over to overall hand strength..

Feel free to share you experiences here, doesn’t have to be eagle loops, it can be any way of training individual fingers.

Hoping on a good debate

I am in the mood for research!

[Climber028]

The problem isn't that individual finger training doesn't work, of course it will get you stronger but you have to consider that it takes 10 times longer to do, so in order to be the ideal training method it would have to provide results 10 times better than training the entire hand as a unit. It's possible that it could be slightly better, but definitely not by that much. If you have a specific weakness, then it is valuable in the short term to even things out. The only other time I would use it is if training for a specific feat or competition, get the tissues ready in order to prevent what is a very common injury. I've also used it following rehab for individual finger injuries to help catch up to the rest of the hand. 

The one important tip I have is if you're training an individual finger do not make a tight fist with the rest of your hand, this makes it much more likely to get an injury in the palm muscles, the remaining fingers should be held partially opened and partially relaxed. 

[AdriaanRobert96]

8 minutes ago, Climber028 said:

The problem isn't that individual finger training doesn't work, of course it will get you stronger but you have to consider that it takes 10 times longer to do, so in order to be the ideal training method it would have to provide results 10 times better than training the entire hand as a unit. It's possible that it could be slightly better, but definitely not by that much. If you have a specific weakness, then it is valuable in the short term to even things out. The only other time I would use it is if training for a specific feat or competition, get the tissues ready in order to prevent what is a very common injury. I've also used it following rehab for individual finger injuries to help catch up to the rest of the hand. 

The one important tip I have is if you're training an individual finger do not make a tight fist with the rest of your hand, this makes it much more likely to get an injury in the palm muscles, the remaining fingers should be held partially opened and partially relaxed. 

Oh alright, that truly makes sense!

Especially the tip at the end, felt that myself a long time ago.

Not doing individual finger training atm, just very curious.

Thanks for the response!

[Jermiah Merciconah]

In the case of training this way to make your gripper closing better, individual training can throw off the neural pathways/feeling of closing the grippers and you can end up going backwards

[AdriaanRobert96]

3 minutes ago, Jermiah Merciconah said:

In the case of training this way to make your gripper closing better, individual training can throw off the neural pathways/feeling of closing the grippers and you can end up going backwards

Oh is that so?

Very interesting how that works, because I’ve always wondered what sets the people with crazy grippera strength apart from other people.

[Apneaa]

In climbing individual finger training isn't so much a strength display as it is a conditioning work.

You train the tendon first and foremost with individual finger training.

I would still think that working all of the fingers together with a stronger load is better but if you wanna do single finger feats you absolutly need to do mono finger work even just to develop the ability of the tendon to whistand that very unique strain.

So if the goal is to do mono finger achievements then it's worth to train, if you are considering mono finger as a way to improve strength overall, i don't know if it's very efficient if not straight up bad if you consider risk/reward.

[AdriaanRobert96]

6 minutes ago, Apneaa said:

In climbing individual finger training isn't so much a strength display as it is a conditioning work.

You train the tendon first and foremost with individual finger training.

I would still think that working all of the fingers together with a stronger load is better but if you wanna do single finger feats you absolutly need to do mono finger work even just to develop the ability of the tendon to whistand that very unique strain.

So if the goal is to do mono finger achievements then it's worth to train, if you are considering mono finger as a way to improve strength overall, i don't know if it's very efficient if not straight up bad if you consider risk/reward.

Alright, I see there’s a lot of climbers on the board aswell which I love btw

So much to learn, thanks a lot!

Not considering training that atm since I am on a gripper grind atm, with that said I love to research