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Rick Browne

I was looking at the York 100 blob next to the York 95. Comparing the two. I honestly could not tell the difference in them in size other than the numbers, (of course)

for the heck of it I will be taking as many measurements that can be attributed to the many facets and contours of each Blob 

I will use a precision outside divider. Here is a list of what I came up with that will be measured

Top to bottom ( top center to bottom center of the flat spot USA)

Front to back 

diameter

the bottom edge of the slope as it rises to the top slop edge. This is the area where the middle finger rests when in pinch grip.

the width of the top edge slope, where the thumb and fingers start to go down the slope.

This is all I can think of. 

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Tommy J.
On 5/22/2020 at 5:06 PM, Rick Browne said:

I was looking at the York 100 blob next to the York 95. Comparing the two. I honestly could not tell the difference in them in size other than the numbers, (of course)

for the heck of it I will be taking as many measurements that can be attributed to the many facets and contours of each Blob 

I will use a precision outside divider. Here is a list of what I came up with that will be measured

Top to bottom ( top center to bottom center of the flat spot USA)

Front to back 

diameter

the bottom edge of the slope as it rises to the top slop edge. This is the area where the middle finger rests when in pinch grip.

the width of the top edge slope, where the thumb and fingers start to go down the slope.

This is all I can think of. 

Dammit.. now I’m gonna have to scale every single lift of that new blob any time I put it on camera.

you did send a half 100, right?!

jk....jk...

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DAVE101
On 5/22/2020 at 6:06 PM, Rick Browne said:

I was looking at the York 100 blob next to the York 95. Comparing the two. I honestly could not tell the difference in them in size other than the numbers, (of course)

for the heck of it I will be taking as many measurements that can be attributed to the many facets and contours of each Blob 

I will use a precision outside divider. Here is a list of what I came up with that will be measured

Top to bottom ( top center to bottom center of the flat spot USA)

Front to back 

diameter

the bottom edge of the slope as it rises to the top slop edge. This is the area where the middle finger rests when in pinch grip.

the width of the top edge slope, where the thumb and fingers start to go down the slope.

This is all I can think of. 

Hey Rick, there is so much variation in the casts for these dumbbells I don't think there's much benefit to measuring them. My 95s are on loan, but they're 95 and 97.6 respectively. And 100s can weigh from 100-110 lbs. The legacies are even worse, sometimes with the 95s being even heavier than the 100s.

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Rick Browne
13 minutes ago, DAVE101 said:

Hey Rick, there is so much variation in the casts for these dumbbells I don't think there's much benefit to measuring them. My 95s are on loan, but they're 95 and 97.6 respectively. And 100s can weigh from 100-110 lbs. The legacies are even worse, sometimes with the 95s being even heavier than the 100s.

I disagree with the no benefit portion of your post. I like when the members dissect their equipment , analyze it,  give info on their findings etc.  It can be helpful if you consider it to be important to what you own.The Board has always, off and on, had such postings on many measurements of grip tools,  and I for one liked it. We even had guys measuring their gripper spring legs with micrometers back in the day. I recall it was a learning experience where it showed much variation in thousandths of the spring diameter of a let's say a #3 gripper.  I was involved with Tetting in the development of the Mash Monster grippers. Wannagrip can attest to this. I spoke with Tetting probably 4 times a week about the Mash Monsters.  I insisted to him that each spring must be consistently a  thousandths thicker or so than a previous level. The Board had quality control on the Mash Monsters. Tetting was very compliant. He made sure each spring was to the specs of the board. We also used depth of spring in the handles to help assure  a doable progression up the Mash Monster ladder.  There was a great discussion on the Sam the Hammerman double hammer lift and  the graphics of his hammers. Boy I learned a lot in that thread. 🙂.  Anyway, I think it a cool thing to do

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DAVE101
2 hours ago, Rick Browne said:

We even had guys measuring their gripper spring legs with micrometers back in the day

I think that has value, as that should be consistent. If all CoC #2's have 0.250 thickness and all Grip Genie 4's have a .255 thickness, you now know which one should be harder on average (all other variables the same).

What I'm saying is there is little to no consistency in blobs since they used different molds. Sure, if you crowdsource this and get a huge sample size then yeah. But if you're asking just one person to get these measurements for you from their own blobs, it'll have no use to you and your blobs. We don't really know since it's not clear what you're asking for (are you asking for anything?) in your OP. It looks you just said "Hey these are some ways we can measure a blob..." 

 

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Rick Browne
2 hours ago, DAVE101 said:

I think that has value, as that should be consistent. If all CoC #2's have 0.250 thickness and all Grip Genie 4's have a .255 thickness, you now know which one should be harder on average (all other variables the same).

What I'm saying is there is little to no consistency in blobs since they used different molds. Sure, if you crowdsource this and get a huge sample size then yeah. But if you're asking just one person to get these measurements for you from their own blobs, it'll have no use to you and your blobs. We don't really know since it's not clear what you're asking for (are you asking for anything?) in your OP. It looks you just said "Hey these are some ways we can measure a blob..." 

 

Hold on Hoss. It looks to me that you are way over thinking  this 🙂...This diction was for my Blobs anyway. Thinking out loud as it were. So now this thread can now die in it's own vein (I hope) Thanks

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Tommy J.

Personally, I’d prefer the thread stay open. Got in grip in 2011 and have avoided blobs this whole time, until recently. And as a result am only just now learning about them. The more info out there the better.

also in agreement with Rick. I enjoy skimming through threads that have equipment dimensions and whatnot.

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Tommy J.

Since this thread is a bit of a blob specs thread, is it okay to also just discuss all things blobs here?..

 

if so, I have a question regarding blob etiquette, if you will...

what are everyone’s thoughts on painting blobs? Or stripping them of paint completely? Or even media blasting them to a raw finish?

basically, I don’t want to do anything to the surface that may be considered cheating the feat. I am considering media blasting it to a nice raw finish to not only give it a nice clean appearance, but also help it hold chalk. Would this be considered cheating?

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Climber028
10 minutes ago, Tommy J. said:

Since this thread is a bit of a blob specs thread, is it okay to also just discuss all things blobs here?..

 

if so, I have a question regarding blob etiquette, if you will...

what are everyone’s thoughts on painting blobs? Or stripping them of paint completely? Or even media blasting them to a raw finish?

basically, I don’t want to do anything to the surface that may be considered cheating the feat. I am considering media blasting it to a nice raw finish to not only give it a nice clean appearance, but also help it hold chalk. Would this be considered cheating?

I've done this and gotten mixed responses on whether people think its cheating but I don't worry about that, I'm definitely not doing any elite blob feats so it's a non issue. I have a blobzilla that's totally stripped, I also took a smaller blob and painted half with glossy paint and half with textured paint to get two lifts in one object. 

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Tommy J.
1 minute ago, Climber028 said:

I've done this and gotten mixed responses on whether people think its cheating but I don't worry about that, I'm definitely not doing any elite blob feats so it's a non issue. I have a blobzilla that's totally stripped, I also took a smaller blob and painted half with glossy paint and half with textured paint to get two lifts in one object. 

Did you use paint stripper or a media blaster? Trying to decide which route to go.

can you post a couple pics of the stripped ‘zilla?

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climber511

I have to wonder how many "molds" York had and used when pouring "Blobs"?  Different molds would account for small differences in individual castings.  Rick you might ask on Iron History if anyone might know about this?

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Squeezus

@Rick Browne I'd be interested to see how those measurements came out compared to one another.

As far as stripping blobs, I don't think there's enough consistency within blobs in the wild to call anything cheating. Most of mine are rusty from sitting in a garage and getting chalked and pawed on for years, so who's to say a media blasted blob would be easier than that? I personally don't like glossy painted blobs, mainly because the friction coefficient of skin on a glossy surface is way more moisture dependent than a rough, chalky surface. I want a consistent feel, day to day, for my blobs.

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Climber028
44 minutes ago, Tommy J. said:

Did you use paint stripper or a media blaster? Trying to decide which route to go.

can you post a couple pics of the stripped ‘zilla?

I used stripper, I didn't want to risk altering the metal. I would post a pic bit it's heavily chalked so doesn't actually look any different. I might do media blasting if it was something soft like walnut shells but wouldn't use anything even close to abrasive. 

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liftyzig
8 minutes ago, Climber028 said:

I used stripper, I didn't want to risk altering the metal. I would post a pic bit it's heavily chalked so doesn't actually look any different. I might do media blasting if it was something soft like walnut shells but wouldn't use anything even close to abrasive. 

I was thinking about using a wire cup on an angle grinder on my half 90, it's paint is chipped and the metal is getting a bit rusty and chunky underneath, doesn't make for a fun lifting experience.

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Climber028
25 minutes ago, liftyzig said:

I was thinking about using a wire cup on an angle grinder on my half 90, it's paint is chipped and the metal is getting a bit rusty and chunky underneath, doesn't make for a fun lifting experience.

Stripper for the paint then vinegar for the rust, after that a stiff plastic brush will remove any remaining debris and you will not risk damaging it. I just use an old baking pan and soak a side overnight, flip it then scrap off the remaining paint. Then soak in vinegar but this vinegar can be reused many times for rust removal after just running it through a coffee filter, obviously no longer for cooking use tho. 

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Rick Browne

All good stuff presented in this thread. Myself, an old dog of the Gripboard, found all the posts quite helpful with the info that has been presented.  As soon as I get caught up with some projects and a little bit of traveling, I will be posting MY York Blobs 95 and 100

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Bearhugger

Another blob question here. What do you think a good price is for a USA stamp half 100? I don’t have access to the “for sale” section on here yet I don’t think.

And they tend to run lighter than the fat mans correct? I’m looking at picking one up.

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Rick Browne
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Bearhugger said:

Another blob question here. What do you think a good price is for a USA stamp half 100? I don’t have access to the “for sale” section on here yet I don’t think.

And they tend to run lighter than the fat mans correct? I’m looking at picking one up.

Over the years I have seen many price variables of Blobs on the Board. The prices reflect what the owner believes it will sell for here.  I would hazard a price range (from what I have seen) between $175 -$275. The price is what the market will bear. Ebay I have seen $300. And yes, it has been discussed that the Fatman's are heavier. And rare. I recall the Blob 50 ( a reproduced replica by a board member) sold for$220. But don't quote me on it 🙂

Edited by Rick Browne
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DAVE101
8 hours ago, Bearhugger said:

Another blob question here. What do you think a good price is for a USA stamp half 100? I don’t have access to the “for sale” section on here yet I don’t think.

And they tend to run lighter than the fat mans correct? I’m looking at picking one up.

https://www.gripboard.com/index.php?/topic/46626-whats-a-blob-50lb-really-worth/&tab=comments#comment-695955

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Rick Browne
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, DAVE101 said:

The graph is good. However, it can not show the number of Blobs that were sold off the Board and ebay, that are unknown by the Board or elsewhere. It would skew the graph ;). I will leave it at that....:whistel

Edited by Rick Browne
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DAVE101

Why would you want prices for specifically off gripboard? That caveat is mentioned in the first post.

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Rick Browne
1 hour ago, DAVE101 said:

Why would you want prices for specifically off gripboard? That caveat is mentioned in the first post.

simple...Large profit margin

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