Bob Callahan Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 (edited) This isn't in English, and it takes awhile to get to the results, but I thought it'd be of interest here: Edited October 24, 2019 by Bob Callahan Correction 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChimpGrip Posted October 25, 2019 Share Posted October 25, 2019 On 10/24/2019 at 11:07 AM, Bob Callahan said: This isn't in English, and it takes awhile to get to the results, but I thought it'd be of interest here: I heard Denis Cyplenkov closed the CoC #2, 2.5, and 3 on his first attempts. Supposedly he did some insane amount of weight on the pinch block for an unofficial record. I was only told the above, none of it confirmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Callahan Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 One of the things that is often said is that rock climbers have a lot of grip strength, and it's sometimes suggested on forums like this that training like a climber would be a good idea for grip. The truth is that typically rock climbers have moderately strong grips for their weight, but in the absolute sense normally are about average. Alex Honnold is one of the more famous climbers, and in the video below you can see that his grip is nothing to brag about. There are exceptions--a fellow climber that I've tested can single-hand deadlift 215 pounds using a 14 millimeter edge. For those of you who climb, he also has climbed 5.14d and is currently working on 5.15+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricochet Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 Concur. Finger strength, finger endurance, and finger dexterity exhibited by climbers doesn't always equate well to crushing or even supporting grip strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fist of Fury Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 47 minutes ago, Bob Callahan said: One of the things that is often said is that rock climbers have a lot of grip strength, and it's sometimes suggested on forums like this that training like a climber would be a good idea for grip. The truth is that typically rock climbers have moderately strong grips for their weight, but in the absolute sense normally are about average. Alex Honnold is one of the more famous climbers, and in the video below you can see that his grip is nothing to brag about. There are exceptions--a fellow climber that I've tested can single-hand deadlift 215 pounds using a 14 millimeter edge. For those of you who climb, he also has climbed 5.14d and is currently working on 5.15+. Climbers don't develop a strong crush strength because they don't get that type of training when climbing. However any elite climber will have excellent open hand strength and especially very strong fingertip strength. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Callahan Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 41 minutes ago, Fist of Fury said: Climbers don't develop a strong crush strength because they don't get that type of training when climbing. However any elite climber will have excellent open hand strength and especially very strong fingertip strength. Yep. Like I mentioned about my friend. He also has good gripper strength, too. He's closed a #3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raymond Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 I've been rock climbing for about 6 years (indoor and on the real thing). I'm not in the elite bracket but I'm getting into the advanced level. My crush is pathetic, it's had no carry over to crush strength for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fist of Fury Posted October 26, 2019 Share Posted October 26, 2019 56 minutes ago, Raymond said: I've been rock climbing for about 6 years (indoor and on the real thing). I'm not in the elite bracket but I'm getting into the advanced level. My crush is pathetic, it's had no carry over to crush strength for me. Grippers has a lot to do with other stuff than just pure muscle strength. Technique, CNS adaptation and even anatomy is extremely important with grippers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Callahan Posted October 26, 2019 Author Share Posted October 26, 2019 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Fist of Fury said: Grippers has a lot to do with other stuff than just pure muscle strength. Technique, CNS adaptation and even anatomy is extremely important with grippers. The same things apply to climbing finger strength. I should clarify for non-rock climbers what I meant by "...single-hand deadlift [of] 215 pounds using a 14 millimeter edge." The attached photo shows Griffin Whiteside doing that kind of lift. Although I should point out that Griffin is using an 18mm edge, and my friend used a 14mm edge which is more difficult. At the time, Griffin Whiteside was 5'9" and weighed 140lb. Edited October 26, 2019 by Bob Callahan Added content Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alawadhi Posted October 27, 2019 Share Posted October 27, 2019 On 10/24/2019 at 8:07 PM, Bob Callahan said: This isn't in English, and it takes awhile to get to the results, but I thought it'd be of interest here: Nice video thanks. It good to see these results! But clearly the Korean guy doesn't understand grip strength. He might love grip, but not informed on it. The tall 200+ CM guy had a correct measurement. He didn't even went 100%. Few others were like him. But others like Levan jerked it so bad. That shouldn't count. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 On 10/27/2019 at 10:39 AM, Alawadhi said: Nice video thanks. It good to see these results! But clearly the Korean guy doesn't understand grip strength. He might love grip, but not informed on it. The tall 200+ CM guy had a correct measurement. He didn't even went 100%. Few others were like him. But others like Levan jerked it so bad. That shouldn't count. I thought the same thing when I saw this video months ago.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 (edited) A Edited October 29, 2019 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 (edited) A Edited October 29, 2019 by Guest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roch Climber Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 To be fair i don't think honnold was trying hard, he is way to layback. Here is a video of chon jong won a 53kg world cup climber doing 77kg on the same device . I have it as well and when i use it it says error haha, but i'm 75. And i have made a lot of my friend try it with 0 grip training other than climbing it was pretty correlated with climbing strenght, the best ones having 15 to 20kg above bw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.