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Roch Climber

A climber grip journey

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Roch Climber
Posted (edited)

Hi everyone. I'm a climber getting into grip as a way to progress in my sport. Lots of cool info on the board, made me want to start grip, helped me a lot and got me motivated. I thought that might be interesting for some of you to see how a climber train and i would be happy to give back. 

Grip oriented goal : progress in climbing (climb v14/15 and 8c+/9a, pessimistic and optimistic values, is the long term goal  if that make sense for some of u),  progress on gripper

Strenght goals (some of those might be a bit optimistic as grip is my main focus but we will see) : 5 one arm pull ups, double body weight bench press, triple body weight deadlift, a good form iron cross on rings, a good form front lever pull up

Why train grip : Climbing specific strenght training destroy my finger pretty bad, especially as i'm heavy (for a climber, i'm a little bitch by powerlifter standard i suppose haha) and i started late. Gripper and thick bar seem somewhat more pulley friendly and gripper probably promote hypertrophy better than static holds, i saw some carryover in the climbing to grip direction, so i guess it must work the opposite dirrection as well. 

Stats : 25, 1m85, 80kg off season, 19.5cm hands

Edited by Roch Climber
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Roch Climber

Today training

First session :

Did a 3h climbing gym session in the afternoon (that was longer than i expected to describe and i'm not sure anyone here care/have any reference so i will probably not detail it in the future if nobody ask for it)

~1h45 of campus board training with some friends (my gym campus board is pretty hard, 24cm between rungs and 24°, usual is 22cm and ~17°) :

- about 8/10 set of 1-4-6-8-10 alternating starting hands on 22mm flat/slightly rounded angle. Stop cause shoulder hurt.

-6 to 8 sets of 1-3-5-7-9-match with a 5kg weight vest

-4 sets of max ascents on big sloppers (managed 4, 4, 3 and a half, 3, stopped there, pretty tired)

Then i tried to go boulder, didn't go well, some ultra strong young local crusher was doing resistance laps i joined in on an easier stuff to finish myself. Did 4 burn + some individual sections in a hour. Did some dyno training during rest times, working on my weaknesses.  

In the end i really fell my off season weight holding me down but i probably had the best sensation i ever had on the campus board being this heavy so i think i'm still progressing.

 

 

Second session : did a gripper session after lunch

L and R :

S 1x10

T 2x10

0.5 2x5

1 2x5

That's what i did those last days for warm up regardless of the session, seem to work fine so i will just note that as warm up from now on, all reps a bit less than ccs probably, i try to open to ccs but it feel a few mm away from my sweet spot for setting so i probably don't always hit it, don't want to bother with a credit card for every rep of my warm up (carryover strenght is the goal not really certification), cliked if possible.

1.5 1x3 

2 CCS 1x1, L was about 4mm away, R was ok.

Now i'm doing L and R separetely.

L :

2 CCS, 2x1 2mm away, got it yesterday, probably tired by the campus training.

2 CCS 1x1 about 1 inch, time to change gripper.

1 3x12 all about CCS

 

R

2.5 CCS 2x1 half a fu***** mm away, i read here (i think) yesterday that it's alway that 1/16th of an inch that drive you mad, i guess it was right... pretty frustrating haha, so close but so far. Just got  this one 2 days ago tho, i heard they get easier so i guess i just have to keep coming at it, it will soften and i shouldn't. 

2.5 CCS 2x1, 3 or 4 mm, time to go down

1.5 3x12 all about CCS

 

Finished by getting pumped on the side winder (love this thing, hate wrist curl which makes it even better, not sure how this translate to climbing tho but i guess it can't hurt). 

 

 

 

 

 

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Roch Climber

Today hangboard session, got a short night, not expecting this to go to well grip wise, first thing which take a hit when i'm tired 

Every exercice i usually do a progressive loading before my working sets except some accessory stuff or when i chain different hangboard grips

Full range strict on everything unless specified.

Warm up  : mobility and deadhangs, few pu

Workout

- About 8x 3 to 5 sec HC (half crimp) deadhangs on 6mm beastmaker micros to build the skin and the pain tolerance, tired, feel hard and it's not suppose to.

- Switch to HC deadhangs on 7mm uncut, do one or two 5s hangs between my pull ups sets.

- Pull ups 6x4 +35kg, kinda easy (russian squat program, gonna get harder soon...)

- Max hangs (each hang is a separate set) :

                   - R OAH (one arm hangs) 22mm/one pad HC 3x10s bw+2kg, 5x10s bw+5kg, ok

                   - L OAH 20mm pocket 3F (3 finger drag) 3x8s with light elastic band, 5x8s just using the band to get into position so i don't shock load it, i have an injury. Feeling great ! This is actually a good day for this side, finally letting the band go, the pulley feel better everyday, i just have to keep not being stupid...

alternating sets with 

- Stric press 3x5 54k kg, my worst compound, finally training it i think it can have some use. Lacking mobility, i think my form isn't great, should work on that or go lighter, maybe use db idk.

-RT (well not RT but rolling handle same size so i think it's probably comparable) :

L 1x55, tried 65 but popped the finger a little,  back to being a moron in 30min, nothing to bad but will set me back a few days i guess, piss me off i love this stuff would like to train it more, can't train thick bar as well. To much pressure on the middle finger.

R managed to get 85 of the floor for a second, 15kg pr from first session, noob gains baby ! Did a few 75kg hold between my row sets

-Dumbell row 1x5 2x3 60kg L and R, ok 

-some ab wheel work

 

 

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Roch Climber
Posted (edited)

Was chilling reading Hopefully grip log instead of studying and came accross a comment by Anwnate telling him to set deeper then open for the ccs to get more skin friction, tried it on my T which was laying around, freaking eye opener. My setting was dead wrong, felt so much easier. Did a quick 1rep of each gripper warm up, closed the #2 CCS with my left much easier than the first time i did it, then close #2.5 CCS with my right first try. I did it again to video tape my setting so some of you might drop more knowledge bombs on me !

Anwnate if you read this you just made me gain a few week of progress in 10sec, thx dude ! 

The videos are pretty bad, as I shake a lot when I try hard it seem and I go partially out of sight when I'm closing cause I'm not really thinking about the camera but not trying to get any sort of credit so who care. The setting is visible tho, that's what matter i guess (unless there is some special closing technique as well, I help with the thumb as much as I can I think it's allowed, that's all the shenanigans I do). Also I close pretty slowly compared to the videos I see, I don't know if it's a lack of technique, fear or injuries, the fact that I used to train static hangs or just that it's hard for me.

The ccs is probably sloppy as the credit card make noise against the handle, I guess I should try to fit it further down the gripper so it goes smoothly, got to work on that.

 

Anyway so psyched ! 

Edited by Roch Climber
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Roch Climber
Posted (edited)

Had my first grip rest day in like a month yesterday, funny how the pain and the inflammation come all at once, had more finger swelling and forearm pain than i did all month today. Woke up early for work, did a little gripper session coming back, just to check where i'm at after a month of gripper training. 

Close the #2 L and #2.5 R easy, decided to try the bigger ones.

L :

#2.5 2x1 CCS, got it to like 4mm

         1x1 few mm closer than ccs (as i said that's my sweetspot as i can set the pinkie better, i have only 19.5cm hands, added it to my stats), got it to about 2mm

R

#3 2x1 CCS, once to less than a cm (about 7 mm, couldn't really watch was trying to hard haha), second go was worse, not enough rest

       1x1 closer same as L, about 4mm, getting there, need to soften this one was as well.

The gap between my 2.5 and my 3 feel bigger than any of my other grippers, i wonder if that's cause my 2.5 is weak (probably, as i got super close on the left), my 3 is hard or just cause it's my max strenght, anyway feel like it will blow my fingers off everytime i try it. 

 

Tired again, need to get my sleep in check, biggest weakness in my training plan i think. 

Edited by Roch Climber

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Roch Climber

Second sesh studying between sets, love this way of setting up my day, tired but feel ok sine i just got a rest day i guess. Trying to do a better formating job, i don't know if i should write my thought like i do here or if people just want the training and i should keep it simple.

Pull ups 6x2@+35kg feel so easy, been pulling the same weight for 2 weeks now, wonder how it will go when it will go up.

Gripper : Can't wait to close the 3 so give it another go, wide set

                  L : #2.5 2x1, about 2mm away, a tiny bit closer i would say, i'm lefty but my left is injured more often it seem, gripper don't hurt me yet so it might catch up again.

                   R : #3 2x1, about 3mm away, closer and closer

Feeling better, #3 doesn't feel as bad anymore and L hand seem to like grippers more than the board.

Hangboard -15mm OC (open crimp) 5x7s@+35kg between pu sets, about 75% of max effort, just to get some volume in

- 18mm 2 finger pockets, getting bad at them should train them more, and i think last phalange flexion should be a good addition to gripper. Also better for the pulley than the crimps.

5x7s@+20kg, ok, not going to hard so i have an ok climbing sesh.

 

 

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