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Vinnie

Climbers and crush ... Alex Honnold on Oscars

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king crusher
11 minutes ago, Climber028 said:

I do tons of weird stuff at work. Like I only loosen screws with my left hand and tighten with my right, to stay symmetrical.

Well then that will not work as screwing in and unscrewing will be working slightly differently in the forearms.  Better mix it up haha

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Climber028
8 minutes ago, king crusher said:

Well then that will not work as screwing in and unscrewing will be working slightly differently in the forearms.  Better mix it up haha

Pronation is already strong, great way to sneak in supination training

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Yves Gravelle
Posted (edited)

Fun story for you guys! 

I was competing in a Bouldering World Cup a few year back and there was a contest to see how had the strongest grip! They used a Dyno to mesure grip strength of all the climbers. 

Some pretty famous names and some of the strongest competition climbers in the world were on that list including Adam Ondra, Jan Hoyer! 

I ended up winning th contest by maxing out of the device which I believe was 200lbs. 

The closest after me was Josh Larsen a very strong American Climber with 170lbs. 

I believe climbers will do very well if you test finger tips lifts like the Stirrup and tip tester. 

We also mostly train with our own body weight and usually increase intensity by grabbing and training on smaller holds.

I still think the best way to get better at grip is to train grip! 

If some of you are interested I could put up a few fingerboard training on the forum that I think Gripster could benefit from! 

Edited by Yves Gravelle
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WestSlope
1 hour ago, Yves Gravelle said:

I could put up a few fingerboard training on the forum that I think Gripster could benefit from

Great idea! It should be in another thread though.

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FrankSobotka
On 3/4/2019 at 3:16 PM, WestSlope said:

Chris, have you watched Free Solo yet? I want to, but I don't know if I can sit through it all even knowing the outcome. It took me three times through to see him pull the whole crux section on Moonlight Buttress.

Also watched The Dawn Wall last night. I can’t even wrap my head around the grip needed to do that. 

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Squeezus
On 3/4/2019 at 3:19 PM, king crusher said:

Dont forget unscrewing a oil filter by hand instead of needing a filter wrench.  Lol

I always end up stabbing my finger straight through the filter to get leverage.

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Anton.Torrella

A year ago I shattered a pair of linesman pliers trying to snap off a rim cylinder tailpiece - the pliers were made in China - my hands were made in America - all the evidence I needed that my crush is crazy - also thats not what that tool was intended for

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devinhoo
On 3/4/2019 at 4:39 PM, Yves Gravelle said:

Fun story for you guys! 

I was competing in a Bouldering World Cup a few year back and there was a contest to see how had the strongest grip! They used a Dyno to mesure grip strength of all the climbers. 

Some pretty famous names and some of the strongest competition climbers in the world were on that list including Adam Ondra, Jan Hoyer! 

I ended up winning th contest by maxing out of the device which I believe was 200lbs. 

The closest after me was Josh Larsen a very strong American Climber with 170lbs. 

I believe climbers will do very well if you test finger tips lifts like the Stirrup and tip tester. 

We also mostly train with our own body weight and usually increase intensity by grabbing and training on smaller holds.

I still think the best way to get better at grip is to train grip! 

If some of you are interested I could put up a few fingerboard training on the forum that I think Gripster could benefit from! 

I want to second this as well. I climbed for years before I ever touched a gripper, and I have generally strong hands from that. However that's a totally different type of grip from grippers. Yeah Alex Honnold might not be very good at grippers, but he probably never trains that kind of closed hand/crushing grip. In rock climbing, especially at that elite level, he's never going to encounter something shaped like a gripper or barbell. He's amazing at crimps, so he's probably amazing at stuff like  the stirrup, tips tester, and anvil stub. 

Different sports, different goals, different strengths.

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WestSlope
2 hours ago, FrankSobotka said:

Also watched The Dawn Wall last night. I can’t even wrap my head around the grip needed to do that. 

Almost no one can. So far only Adam Ondra has repeated the route. He did it so quickly... Are you a climber?

 

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FrankSobotka
6 hours ago, WestSlope said:

Almost no one can. So far only Adam Ondra has repeated the route. He did it so quickly... Are you a climber?

 

Nope, just a guy who likes the outdoors and documentaries. 

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Hubgeezer
On 3/4/2019 at 11:52 AM, climber511 said:

Crushing strength is good for ..............crushing a gripper or dyno.............and not much else.  If Honnold does poorly crushing a dyno - nothing happens.  If you do poorly at what he does you die.  :) 

 

Since you posted this, I watched the movie, twice. This may be one of my favorite posts on the Gripboard.

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climber511
2 minutes ago, Hubgeezer said:

Since you posted this, I watched the movie, twice. This may be one of my favorite posts on the Gripboard.

Mike 

Over my time climbing I met several of the big name soloists.  All but Peter Croft are dead from falls.  It's a seriously fine line "no mistakes" way to climb.  

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climber511
On 3/4/2019 at 4:39 PM, Yves Gravelle said:

Fun story for you guys! 

I was competing in a Bouldering World Cup a few year back and there was a contest to see how had the strongest grip! They used a Dyno to mesure grip strength of all the climbers. 

Some pretty famous names and some of the strongest competition climbers in the world were on that list including Adam Ondra, Jan Hoyer! 

I ended up winning th contest by maxing out of the device which I believe was 200lbs. 

The closest after me was Josh Larsen a very strong American Climber with 170lbs. 

I believe climbers will do very well if you test finger tips lifts like the Stirrup and tip tester. 

We also mostly train with our own body weight and usually increase intensity by grabbing and training on smaller holds.

I still think the best way to get better at grip is to train grip! 

If some of you are interested I could put up a few fingerboard training on the forum that I think Gripster could benefit from! 

Please post a few workouts!

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