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Vinnie

Climbers and crush ... Alex Honnold on Oscars

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Vinnie

Regarding this this video:

Honnold squeezes a dynamometer, and he gets readings of "75" to "95" -- and he says pounds.  But can that possibly be?  It must be that he just doesn't test his grip strength and assumed it was pounds when it was really kilos, right?  Because 75-95 pounds is average at best, probably a little below.  It must be in kilos, which would mean 165-200 pounds or so. 

Right?

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Vinnie

Wow.  When I pasted it in here, it got bigger, and I think I could see "lb" on the readout.  I am astounded.  Maybe he just was a little off and didn't try much.

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Eric Roussin

This was my first thought as well. Kilos, not pounds.

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Joseph Sullivan
Posted (edited)

That definitely said pounds. I have one at work. I will look at it and report back. It only goes to 90kilos so it’s pounds for sure, does not go to 95kilo 

Edited by Joseph Sullivan

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Joseph Sullivan
Posted (edited)

Ok I shot a video. Just gave it an initial squeeze. Says max is 90kg or 198 for machines capacity. This was the result for the initial squeeze without the traditional “wind up” like someone’s about to throw a pitch at yankee stadium or swing a sledgehammer.So no body thrown into it.

 

 

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Edited by Joseph Sullivan

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Vinnie

Wow.  Wimp.  (lol)  Guess there's more to climbing than grip ...

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Joseph Sullivan
4 minutes ago, Vinnie said:

Wow.  Wimp.  (lol)  Guess there's more to climbing than grip ...

Felt pretty easy to get what I got on it after lunch and just grabbing it. First time I squeezed it. Was collecting dust on the occupational therapist side of the gym.

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Joseph Sullivan
7 minutes ago, Vinnie said:

Wow.  Wimp.  (lol)  Guess there's more to climbing than grip ...

Don’t you mean there is more to grip than climbing?  😂

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Vinnie
Just now, Joseph Sullivan said:

Felt pretty easy to get what I got on it after lunch and just grabbing it. First time I squeezed it. Was collecting dust on the occupational therapist side of the gym.

Oh I didn't even see yours, I was kidding that Honneld was a wimp for the low number he got.  You can do over 200 I think - I did over 200 on one, in November, and your crush is better than mine.  I think I got 212 or 218.  Chez did about 280, which makes sense because his max gripper is about 33% more than mine and same ratio there.  Probably varies some by machine.

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Vinnie
5 minutes ago, Joseph Sullivan said:

Felt pretty easy to get what I got on it after lunch and just grabbing it. First time I squeezed it. Was collecting dust on the occupational therapist side of the gym.

Um, it has a 198 max, you thought 195 was pretty easy, and you stopped and posted a 195 reading?  Who does that?  198 my man!  Chop chop!

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Vinnie
Just now, Vinnie said:

Um, it has a 198 max, you thought 195 was pretty easy, and you stopped and posted a 195 reading?  Who does that?  198 my man!  Chop chop!

Please post a 198 and tell me you had plenty left lol.

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Joseph Sullivan
1 minute ago, Vinnie said:

Oh I didn't even see yours, I was kidding that Honneld was a wimp for the low number he got.  You can do over 200 I think - I did over 200 on one, in November, and your crush is better than mine.  I think I got 212 or 218.  Chez did about 280, which makes sense because his max gripper is about 33% more than mine and same ratio there.  Probably varies some by machine.

Dude, I just picked it up and gave it a first squeeze. These things definitely vary, I got much higher on the dyno from Jamar with the clock style gauge the few times I’ve squeezed one. I take these things with a grain of salt. Have zero carryover into grip lifts IMO. 

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Joseph Sullivan
2 minutes ago, Vinnie said:

Um, it has a 198 max, you thought 195 was pretty easy, and you stopped and posted a 195 reading?  Who does that?  198 my man!  Chop chop!

Because I wanted it to be my first “true squeeze” on it, like the fella in the video 

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Vinnie
Just now, Joseph Sullivan said:

Because I wanted it to be my first “true squeeze” on it, like the fella in the video 

I'm just messing with you.  I don't doubt your strength for a second.

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Fist of Fury
15 minutes ago, Joseph Sullivan said:

Dude, I just picked it up and gave it a first squeeze. These things definitely vary, I got much higher on the dyno from Jamar with the clock style gauge the few times I’ve squeezed one. I take these things with a grain of salt. Have zero carryover into grip lifts IMO. 

I have two dynamos. This one which is used in the vid and a digital one from silarukov and I think the Camry is much harder. I've maxed out the camry but it's quite hard and I really have to give everything. I've done 110 kg on the silarukov, but that was with chalk. I think it's mostly because of the grip, which is very uncomfortable on the camry.

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Joseph Sullivan
Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, Vinnie said:

I'm just messing with you.  I don't doubt your strength for a second.

Also, keep in mind Vin, most that close these dynos that I’ve seen do heck of a hand flail and jerk like they are winding up for a pitch at yankee stadium! This significantly  aids in increasing the poundage registered. The actual true way to test it in therapy is with the arm bent at the side at 90 degrees with the elbow at the side. I did NOT wind up and throw my whole body into it at all. I wonder what it would read if I did?

Edited by Joseph Sullivan
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climber511

Crushing strength is good for ..............crushing a gripper or dyno.............and not much else.  If Honnold does poorly crushing a dyno - nothing happens.  If you do poorly at what he does you die.  :) 

 

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Joseph Sullivan
4 minutes ago, climber511 said:

Crushing strength is good for ..............crushing a gripper or dyno.............and not much else.  If Honnold does poorly crushing a dyno - nothing happens.  If you do poorly at what he does you die.  :) 

 

Totally and 100% agree with this statement. Crushing grippers and dynos is the only thing that activity is good for. Not much carryover to functional grip strength. If it did, then every big gripper closer would have a big pinch and thick bar number. Most of the time that’s not the case, unfortunately.

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king crusher
11 minutes ago, climber511 said:

Crushing strength is good for ..............crushing a gripper or dyno.............and not much else.  If Honnold does poorly crushing a dyno - nothing happens.  If you do poorly at what he does you die.  :) 

 

Or snapping necks like breadsticks ala Carlitos way lol

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WestSlope
20 minutes ago, climber511 said:

Crushing strength is good for ..............crushing a gripper or dyno.............and not much else.  If Honnold does poorly crushing a dyno - nothing happens.  If you do poorly at what he does you die.  :) 

 

Chris, have you watched Free Solo yet? I want to, but I don't know if I can sit through it all even knowing the outcome. It took me three times through to see him pull the whole crux section on Moonlight Buttress.

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FrankSobotka
8 minutes ago, WestSlope said:

Chris, have you watched Free Solo yet? I want to, but I don't know if I can sit through it all even knowing the outcome. It took me three times through to see him pull the whole crux section on Moonlight Buttress.

I watched Meru last night. What an awesome doc. 

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Climber028
8 minutes ago, Tommy J. said:

Having a decent crush certainly helps at work when cutting heavy guage battery cables or setting vice grips on stripped out hardware. I can imagine electricians benefiting heavily from having a powerful crush due to the 1000+ times a day they cut wire with dykes.

 

but i do agree about the Alex sentiments. He loses nothing having a weak crush.

 

i might even say mechanics or electricians lose nothing if they have a weak crush.. they could simply use both hands to cut wire or set vice grips and not get to reap the benefits of being able to do those things one handed. 😬

I took a grinder and dulled up my wire cutter so I can get a little extra crush training while working. If you're not getting stronger,  you're getting weaker. 

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Chez
15 minutes ago, Tommy J. said:

Having a decent crush certainly helps at work when cutting heavy guage battery cables or setting vice grips on stripped out hardware. I can imagine electricians benefiting heavily from having a powerful crush due to the 1000+ times a day they cut wire with dykes.

 

but i do agree about the Alex sentiments. He loses nothing having a weak crush.

 

i might even say mechanics or electricians lose nothing if they have a weak crush.. they could simply use both hands to cut wire or set vice grips and not get to reap the benefits of being able to do those things one handed. 😬

I actually remember Dave Morton mentioning his time spent cutting wire at work probably attributed to his high starting point with grippers

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Climber028
16 minutes ago, Tommy J. said:

You cray

I do tons of weird stuff at work. Like I only loosen screws with my left hand and tighten with my right, to stay symmetrical.

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king crusher
46 minutes ago, Tommy J. said:

Having a decent crush certainly helps at work when cutting heavy guage battery cables or setting vice grips on stripped out hardware. I can imagine electricians benefiting heavily from having a powerful crush due to the 1000+ times a day they cut wire with dykes.

 

but i do agree about the Alex sentiments. He loses nothing having a weak crush.

 

i might even say mechanics or electricians lose nothing if they have a weak crush.. they could simply use both hands to cut wire or set vice grips and not get to reap the benefits of being able to do those things one handed. 😬

Dont forget unscrewing a oil filter by hand instead of needing a filter wrench.  Lol

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