Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
KapMan

Climbing holds

Recommended Posts

KapMan

I think it goes without saying that climbing is to grip like a scope is to a sniper rifle. Just makes it better. Wecan look to Chris Rice, Tannar and Gil as great examples to what years climbing can do. So it got me thinking.

 

What climbing holds or tools best translate to grip strength and how can I use that without blowing my wad on a 1 hr drive and 85 dollar membership fee for a climbing gym membership. 

So theres the question for the climbers, aside from just years of climbing what specific holds, or tools do you find to be useful or can be useful in boosting grip potential. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Climber028

I made a flat fixture that mounts to a loading pin with the standard sized screw hole and can use that to buy any climbing hold and progress normally.  Then just check out some hold companies and get shapes that look cool. Climbing gyms routinely throw away old holds so that's also a route to explore.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
climber511

Of the common grip sport items the tips tester might be the closest?   Climbers really use very few "tools".  I would suggest a hangboard and rig up a way to "deload" with it - harness, rope and a couple pulleys.  It's pretty easy to find them with a simple search and workout routines are also easy to find.  Start slow and deload more than you think necessary if you have any significant bodyweight (big boys beware).  And stay away from things like one hand hangs and two finger and one finger hangs - unnecessary even for beginning climbers.  It's easy to just screw a 2 x 4 up somewhere and hang from that also - gives a 1.5" edge to work with.   If you have somewhere to put them - a variety of climbing holds are also even better but take more space.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WestSlope

Get Metolius Rock Rings and use the same setup off the ground with a loading pin as you did with the BSS stirrup. Spend the first six months training repeaters in an attempt to stave off pulley sprains and other types of hand and finger injuries that are common with finger training. A repeater protocol might look like hold for 10s rest for 3s, hold for 10s rest for 3s... repeat 5x. Rest about 5 min and repeat. You will have to use a light enough weight to finish the workout, but this will help with injury prevention.

You amazed me with your stirrup lifts so you might not be as prone to finger injuries as others. Every single climber I have know in my 33+ years of climbing has suffered finger injuries that sidelined them for months. Chez is a current example. A guy of similar weight as you, Gingernaught on this board, injured his fingers with Rock Rings. Be careful bud.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
richcottrell
5 minutes ago, WestSlope said:

 Spend the first six months training repeaters in an attempt to stave off pulley sprains and other types of hand and finger injuries that are common with finger training. A repeater protocol might look like hold for 10s rest for 3s, hold for 10s rest for 3s... repeat 5x. Rest about 5 min and repeat. 

I do not think I have read about that “Repeater Protocol” before.  Could you direct me in a direction to learn more before I fall down. Google wormhole?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WestSlope
49 minutes ago, richcottrell said:

I do not think I have read about that “Repeater Protocol” before.  Could you direct me in a direction to learn more before I fall down. Google wormhole?

The most thorough resource for climbers is the Rock Climbers Training Manual written by Mike and Mark Anderson. That way madness lies. Instead check out this nice discussion from Dan Mirsky http://eveningsends.com/catch-hangboard-buzz/

If you are not a climber, skip the two finger holds and stick to the large edges with all four fingers.

  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KapMan
8 hours ago, climber511 said:

Of the common grip sport items the tips tester might be the closest?   Climbers really use very few "tools".  I would suggest a hangboard and rig up a way to "deload" with it - harness, rope and a couple pulleys.  It's pretty easy to find them with a simple search and workout routines are also easy to find.  Start slow and deload more than you think necessary if you have any significant bodyweight (big boys beware).  And stay away from things like one hand hangs and two finger and one finger hangs - unnecessary even for beginning climbers.  It's easy to just screw a 2 x 4 up somewhere and hang from that also - gives a 1.5" edge to work with.   If you have somewhere to put them - a variety of climbing holds are also even better but take more space.

On climbing holds what are types to avoid as I understand it, anything that doesnt put you into a agressive grip like a full crimp is fair game, does that sound about right? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DAVE101

Have you considered a pair of Rock Rings? At $30 a pair, it's much cheaper than a hangboard (let alone a package of climbing holds) and much more portable. You can do any exercise that you'd normally do on gymnastic rings, or you could take them down and hook to weight or a loading pin to regulate the resistance level. It would also emulate "The Stirrup" that Gil used to sell at BSS.

I also second Chris's idea of mounting a 2x4 (or 2x2, it's all the same depth). It's cheap, effective, and pretty much exactly what's used to create "cliff hanger" obstacles in Ninja Warrior. It's also smoother, and would save your skin for more grip training. You don't need fancy, specially molded and textured polyurethane shapes to get stronger in my opinion.

Edited by DAVE101

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JHenze646

I am not a climber.

In most of the discussion I have read and the climbers I have talked with, it seems like large volumes of low to occasionally moderate intensity work is the norm. I think this is the key to developing the hand not necessarily the actual climbing. It just so happens that climbing is an enjoyable activity and climbers gladly invest the time. Much like grip implements “climbing holds” can just be a matter of creativity and what’s on hand.

if only you knew someone who could carve and shape a relative accessibile inexpensive substance like wood? 🤔

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KapMan
1 hour ago, JHenze646 said:

 

if only you knew someone who could carve and shape a relative accessibile inexpensive substance like wood? 🤔

 

0D86DCDF-2CD9-416D-9020-770AC29D3E72.jpeg

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy policies.