Paul Markowski Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I'm trying to bridge the gap between a COC 2.5 and 3....I have a Robert Baraban 210 and a GHP 6 gripper that I believe is "between" the 2.5 and #3.....what advice would you Mash Monsters give to me as I try to work towards my 2017 goal of closing the COC #3 with an MM set? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeezus Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Get your grippers rated so you know exactly where you are and where you're going. Cannon Powerworks, Jedd, and Barrel Strength Systems all rate grippers. There is a good chance that you don't actually need anything to bridge the #2.5 and #3. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chez Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 39 minutes ago, Squeezus said: Get your grippers rated so you know exactly where you are and where you're going. Cannon Powerworks, Jedd, and Barrel Strength Systems all rate grippers. There is a good chance that you don't actually need anything to bridge the #2.5 and #3. This is the best advice. Its expensive if you have a lot of grippers but its important if you want to progress quickly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anwnate Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 1 hour ago, Squeezus said: Get your grippers rated so you know exactly where you are and where you're going. Cannon Powerworks, Jedd, and Barrel Strength Systems all rate grippers. There is a good chance that you don't actually need anything to bridge the #2.5 and #3. Working only with the 3, it took me 11 months to go from the 2.5 to the 3. The time is going to depend a lot on your commitment, but perhaps even more so the respective ratings of both grippers. I didn't use rated gappers back then...but I do think working with a 3.5 helped me get the 3. Part of that was overload...but some was simply making the 3 feel easier...and demystifying it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chez Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I always give this advice and people don't always like it since they are on a budget, but having a lot of grippers in small increments helps you progress very fast. There are other ways to do it but I find this to be the fastest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anwnate Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 2 minutes ago, Chez said: I always give this advice and people don't always like it since they are on a budget, but having a lot of grippers in small increments helps you progress very fast. There are other ways to do it but I find this to be the fastest. You can still use this advice cheaply by buying an adjustable like a TRex or megladon. It's essentially like getting 7-8 grippers with 5lb jumps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chez Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 1 minute ago, anwnate said: You can still use this advice cheaply by buying an adjustable like a TRex or megladon. It's essentially like getting 7-8 grippers with 5lb jumps. Ya, they are good grippers but also more narrow than the top brands like COC, tetting and GHP. I believe in training with what you want to excel in. Another reason why I think adjustables like the vulcan and rba should be only supplements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richcottrell Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 I am not a Mash Monster... more like a Mashed Potato Fists Monster, but I have overthought a lot of things about grippers... I would say, if you want to save money, you need to get your existing grippers rated.... or at least the important ones need to be rated. You do not need to get any of your easy grippers rated, but RATE the ones that are at your high end and rate the ones just outside of your current max... You can not rely on what you "believe" is between your CoC2.5 and your CoC3, you need to know. Forget about your Robert Baraban 210 and your GHP 6 gripper for a second and hear me out... Minimally, you should rate your CoC2.5 and your CoC3 because that is the gap your looking at filling. That will cost you $20 plus shipping. [consider that an investment, as rated grippers usually re-sell for more money then unrated once] Firstly, this will tell you what weight you are currently closing. That will give you something numerical for your training log/records. Second, this will give you an idea how many pounds away your CoC#3 is. For example, say your CoC#2.5 was an easy one [RGC in the low 120's], but your CoC3 is a harder one [at 155]... that is a big jump. You might actually find that getting two grippers (or more) to bridge that gap would be better in the end.... Or, what if your CoC2.5 is easy [low 120's] but your CoC3 is also low [say 145]. That means maybe you can get away with just finding one more gripper in the 135lb area [maybe thats your GHP6, maybe not...] The idea here is you spend just a little money to rate the current grippers, so you know what would fill the gap. That same logic would apply if your CoC2.5 was a hard one, yet your CoC3 was an easy one. Another low budget option you could go -- once you have a numerical rating for that current CoC2.5: After you get that gripper rated, try to find a CoC that rates 10lbs harder. CPW sells the pre-rated ones, and grippers are always being sold on the forum. Once you find that gripper that is 10lbs harder then that CoC2.5, if you find you can close that new gripper right way, sell the original CoC2.5 and then find another gripper 10b harder [so now your 20b above that original CoC2.5]. This way, you only own one "extra" gripper and the sale of the original CoC2.5 offsets the cost of having your first two grippers rated . Once you can close that new gripper, see how far away that original CoC3 is... as you would have just gone 20lbs up from where you started, which is just about the average distance between a CoC2.5 and a CoC3 (if you use the CPW ratings data]. But you have a GHP6 and a RB210. Either one of those might be your potential gap filler, but you would know know until you get them rated as well. Either get them rated along with the CoC2.5 and CoC3, or sell them unrated and buy a rated gripper or two that you know will fill your gap... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fist of Fury Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Yes get your grippers calibrated. "Number 3" doesn't really mean anything. 144 lbs and 155 lbs are two completely different worlds with grippers. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Markowski Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 2 hours ago, Squeezus said: Get your grippers rated so you know exactly where you are and where you're going. Cannon Powerworks, Jedd, and Barrel Strength Systems all rate grippers. There is a good chance that you don't actually need anything to bridge the #2.5 and #3. Good point! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Markowski Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 1 hour ago, Chez said: This is the best advice. Its expensive if you have a lot of grippers but its important if you want to progress quickly. I have 19 grippers as I am very serious about getting that MM0 certification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Markowski Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 1 hour ago, anwnate said: Working only with the 3, it took me 11 months to go from the 2.5 to the 3. The time is going to depend a lot on your commitment, but perhaps even more so the respective ratings of both grippers. I didn't use rated gappers back then...but I do think working with a 3.5 helped me get the 3. Part of that was overload...but some was simply making the 3 feel easier...and demystifying it. So you suggest working with say a #3.5 gripper in order to master a #3 eventually? What did your workout look like....I am very curious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fist of Fury Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Another thing you should consider is to file down your RB-grippers a little bit because the handles are one millimeter larger on them, which makes it two millimeters in total, which is a big difference. If you train only with them it will not carryover good to COC, GHP, Tetting etc. You lose that extra range and the hand gets used to closing in another (shorter) range. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Markowski Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 49 minutes ago, richcottrell said: I am not a Mash Monster... more like a Mashed Potato Fists Monster, but I have overthought a lot of things about grippers... I would say, if you want to save money, you need to get your existing grippers rated.... or at least the important ones need to be rated. You do not need to get any of your easy grippers rated, but RATE the ones that are at your high end and rate the ones just outside of your current max... You can not rely on what you "believe" is between your CoC2.5 and your CoC3, you need to know. Forget about your Robert Baraban 210 and your GHP 6 gripper for a second and hear me out... Minimally, you should rate your CoC2.5 and your CoC3 because that is the gap your looking at filling. That will cost you $20 plus shipping. [consider that an investment, as rated grippers usually re-sell for more money then unrated once] Firstly, this will tell you what weight you are currently closing. That will give you something numerical for your training log/records. Second, this will give you an idea how many pounds away your CoC#3 is. For example, say your CoC#2.5 was an easy one [RGC in the low 120's], but your CoC3 is a harder one [at 155]... that is a big jump. You might actually find that getting two grippers (or more) to bridge that gap would be better in the end.... Or, what if your CoC2.5 is easy [low 120's] but your CoC3 is also low [say 145]. That means maybe you can get away with just finding one more gripper in the 135lb area [maybe thats your GHP6, maybe not...] The idea here is you spend just a little money to rate the current grippers, so you know what would fill the gap. That same logic would apply if your CoC2.5 was a hard one, yet your CoC3 was an easy one. Another low budget option you could go -- once you have a numerical rating for that current CoC2.5: After you get that gripper rated, try to find a CoC that rates 10lbs harder. CPW sells the pre-rated ones, and grippers are always being sold on the forum. Once you find that gripper that is 10lbs harder then that CoC2.5, if you find you can close that new gripper right way, sell the original CoC2.5 and then find another gripper 10b harder [so now your 20b above that original CoC2.5]. This way, you only own one "extra" gripper and the sale of the original CoC2.5 offsets the cost of having your first two grippers rated . Once you can close that new gripper, see how far away that original CoC3 is... as you would have just gone 20lbs up from where you started, which is just about the average distance between a CoC2.5 and a CoC3 (if you use the CPW ratings data]. But you have a GHP6 and a RB210. Either one of those might be your potential gap filler, but you would know know until you get them rated as well. Either get them rated along with the CoC2.5 and CoC3, or sell them unrated and buy a rated gripper or two that you know will fill your gap... Great advice brother! I appreciate it very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.