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Noob Bending Amnesty Question Thread (lots of merged threads)


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51 minutes ago, Kluv#0 said:

Hello benders, I have a few of questions.

Reverse style- how many fingers are on steel(under wrap) with bending hand and how many on the "anchor hand" 

Double Overhand- What does it mean when someone says to try to "fold" bar instead of bend it? What fingers are the primary force in DO. Also, I read somewhere that people should press inward on the bar- I can't understand that.

Thanks in advance.

For reverse bending I usually leave the pinky slightly off the bar with the anchor hand and with the driving hand I have the edge of the bar in the middle of my palm.

DU I don't do so I can't answer.

DO and braced (leg crush technique) is about compression. Reverse, DU, heslep style vertical style is about torque. Not the same type of bending at all. That's why most people are doing DO wrong when they first try, because they try to torque the bar with their hands/wrist. Instead of compressing the bar.

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33 minutes ago, Fist of Fury said:

For reverse bending I usually leave the pinky slightly off the bar with the anchor hand and with the driving hand I have the edge of the bar in the middle of my palm.

DU I don't do so I can't answer.

DO and braced (leg crush technique) is about compression. Reverse, DU, heslep style vertical style is about torque. Not the same type of bending at all. That's why most people are doing DO wrong when they first try, because they try to torque the bar with their hands/wrist. Instead of compressing the bar.

FOF, I appreciate the Reverse style response and overall styles information. DO style- How long do you compress before you try to fold and what body part initiates that move. Thanks 

Edited by Kluv#0
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36 minutes ago, Kluv#0 said:

FOF, I appreciate the Reverse style response and overall styles information. DO style- How long do you compress before you try to fold and what body part initiates that move. Thanks 

The bar will fold eventually once you have applied enough pressure on it. You need to find the right technique for this. Practice with very light bars and do a lot of volume to get the technique right. And don't cheat, do it with perfect technique. Easy bars are easy to cheat on, don't do that. use the proper technique no matter how hard and awkward it feels.

There a few guides on it on youtube. Basically find the right grip (this depends on your preference to a large extent) then drive your elbows forward, try to make you pinky fingers touch each other. Hands and wrist should not move, they should be in the same position, you just drive the elbows forward and if you're strong enough the bar will start to move. You have to practice, it's not a "natural" thing at all, it's not like lifting something off the ground, it's way more complex than that (IMO).

You have to find the right tension. It's matter of feeling and the only way to get good at it is to practice it a lot. Finding that perfect position that feels the best for you.

Also flexibility is very important, you need to be flexible in the shoulders, chest and back. The further up under your chin you can get the bar and not just get it there, also generate force from there the better it will be. You will gain more leverage that way. This is up to flexibility and a lot of practice.

DO activates everything in your upper body, everything besides your legs I would say. It's extremely taxing, it's just as hard as doing really heavy deadlifts IMO. Providing you know how to do it correctly.

 

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1 hour ago, Kluv#0 said:

FOF, I appreciate the Reverse style response and overall styles information. DO style- How long do you compress before you try to fold and what body part initiates that move. Thanks 

To add on what everyone else was saying, here is the best visual representation I can give to show the forces going on

Screenshot_20211117-172307_Instagram-01.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/17/2021 at 10:48 AM, Fist of Fury said:

The further up under your chin you can get the bar and not just get it there, also generate force from there the better it will be. You will gain more leverage that way. This is up to flexibility and a lot of practice.

Crucial point. You need to be stable, not just shove the bar under your chin and wish very hard.

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24 minutes ago, Tom Flesher said:

Crucial point. You need to be stable, not just shove the bar under your chin and wish very hard.

Yeah you don't want to just put the bar there and go. If you watch videos of the guys that know what they are doing you will notice them move their head up and down a bunch after the bar is "in place".  At least for me I do it to get my shoulders lined up with the bar before I pull the trigger. 

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

I have a question about reverse bending and using the Wrist Developer.. i'll describe what i'm asking the best I can

With reverse bending I always thought you keep the "anchor" hand upright and then the hand your doing the bend with the other hand.  The piece of steel your bending would start out vertical . But i see videos, the hands are more horizontal or lower than chest level.  It also seems like people use their "anchor" hand to assist the bend. 

I always thought with reverse, the "anchor" hand acts as a vice and doesn't assist in the bend.

Is there a correct way? Or is it just as long as it's above the waist level and you don't brace against the body? I feel like the way i've been doing it but I could be wrong....Whether its the WD or 60d, is harder on the wrists. 

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2 hours ago, Blacksmith513 said:

I have a question about reverse bending and using the Wrist Developer.. i'll describe what i'm asking the best I can

With reverse bending I always thought you keep the "anchor" hand upright and then the hand your doing the bend with the other hand.  The piece of steel your bending would start out vertical . But i see videos, the hands are more horizontal or lower than chest level.  It also seems like people use their "anchor" hand to assist the bend. 

I always thought with reverse, the "anchor" hand acts as a vice and doesn't assist in the bend.

Is there a correct way? Or is it just as long as it's above the waist level and you don't brace against the body? I feel like the way i've been doing it but I could be wrong....Whether its the WD or 60d, is harder on the wrists. 

I've seen both, I don't think there's a right or wrong. For me it doesn't work at all starting with the bar vertical. Probably because I never trained it like that. I actually tried it a few weeks ago but it felt very wrong for me.

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3 hours ago, Blacksmith513 said:

I have a question about reverse bending and using the Wrist Developer.. i'll describe what i'm asking the best I can

With reverse bending I always thought you keep the "anchor" hand upright and then the hand your doing the bend with the other hand.  The piece of steel your bending would start out vertical . But i see videos, the hands are more horizontal or lower than chest level.  It also seems like people use their "anchor" hand to assist the bend. 

I always thought with reverse, the "anchor" hand acts as a vice and doesn't assist in the bend.

Is there a correct way? Or is it just as long as it's above the waist level and you don't brace against the body? I feel like the way i've been doing it but I could be wrong....Whether its the WD or 60d, is harder on the wrists. 

People bend differently with reverse. I personally have my front hand doing most of the bending action but also assisted by the back hand. I know some people use the front hand as an anchor and then do the bending with the back hand. You just need to find what groove gives you the best power.

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2 hours ago, Fist of Fury said:

I've seen both, I don't think there's a right or wrong. For me it doesn't work at all starting with the bar vertical. Probably because I never trained it like that. I actually tried it a few weeks ago but it felt very wrong for me.

 Its just the way that seemed natural to me, but i'd like to try the other ways, I just assumed the other way wasn't technique.. 

1 hour ago, Donc101 said:

People bend differently with reverse. I personally have my front hand doing most of the bending action but also assisted by the back hand. I know some people use the front hand as an anchor and then do the bending with the back hand. You just need to find what groove gives you the best power.

That way seems very painful to me, to bend with the back hand but i'm going to give it a go... That's one thing i like about the WD,  I can practice the other ways with it to balance things out, but for actual steel bending I can use the technique most comfortable. 

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  • 1 month later...

I've looked at the steel rating chart and while its very helpful it confuses me. To get from a 60D to a G5 what should I order for drill rod? .261? 

I put a slight kink in a G5 yesterday. I also cut down my 60d and 60d spiral. A 5" 60d spiral was still easy to bend reverse style ( I think i even did it with my right hand but I'll have to check the video. Snapping it was very very hard. I never timed myself snapping a 60d spiral but i'm sure it was less than 5 minute.  This took 17 minutes and i was exhausted after.

 

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3 hours ago, Blacksmith513 said:

I've looked at the steel rating chart and while its very helpful it confuses me. To get from a 60D to a G5 what should I order for drill rod? .261? 

I put a slight kink in a G5 yesterday. I also cut down my 60d and 60d spiral. A 5" 60d spiral was still easy to bend reverse style ( I think i even did it with my right hand but I'll have to check the video. Snapping it was very very hard. I never timed myself snapping a 60d spiral but i'm sure it was less than 5 minute.  This took 17 minutes and i was exhausted after.

 

Are you bending galvanized 60d's or the shiny ones? 

In my experience the shineys are a lot harder, but should be a little easier that grade 5's.  You can get them at Ace hardware usually.

 

As far as drill rod, I'd start at 1/4 and work your way up. Maybe grab a few sticks of each or order from @devinhoo

Here's a copy of the chart for drill rod, in case you need it. 

 

 

Screenshot_20220812-102832.png

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4 minutes ago, stranger said:

Are you bending galvanized 60d's or the shiny ones? 

In my experience the shineys are a lot harder, but should be a little easier that grade 5's.  You can get them at Ace hardware usually.

 

As far as drill rod, I'd start at 1/4 and work your way up. Maybe grab a few sticks of each or order from @devinhoo

Here's a copy of the chart for drill rod, in case you need it. 

 

 

Screenshot_20220812-102832.png

Thanks… Grip rite galvanized from HD. I’d love some bright ones. Don’t know where to buy them though. I’ll check ace this weekend.

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3 hours ago, Blacksmith513 said:

Thanks… Grip rite galvanized from HD. I’d love some bright ones. Don’t know where to buy them though. I’ll check ace this weekend.

Stranger is a way better bender than me but another option might be get longer G5. As long as it's not too long it will make it easier.

 

For me I climbed the ladder through the drill rod levels. I found it was the best way for me to make progress.

 

 

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50 minutes ago, jculpepper said:

Stranger is a way better bender than me but another option might be get longer G5. As long as it's not too long it will make it easier.

 

For me I climbed the ladder through the drill rod levels. I found it was the best way for me to make progress.

 

 

I do have some 6.5 inch G5s I tried once but I wasn’t feeling it. I have some rated nails from David Horne too I should use.

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16 minutes ago, Blacksmith513 said:

I do have some 6.5 inch G5s I tried once but I wasn’t feeling it. I have some rated nails from David Horne too I should use.

Yeah technically the long the nail/bolt the easier it should be do to the leverage but if your not use to that length it can be harder.

 

@Harrido has a bunch of different bolts you could maybe find one that is right for you. 

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2 hours ago, jculpepper said:

Yeah technically the long the nail/bolt the easier it should be do to the leverage but if your not use to that length it can be harder.

 

@Harrido has a bunch of different bolts you could maybe find one that is right for you. 

Yeah.. I only tried the G5 6.5" inch once when I was at the end of recovering after my eye surgery.  I think attempting to bend something longer did throw me off a little. Now i'm extremely focused. Bending isn't my #1 goal right now (the inch is) but its something i'm slowly going to build on. I'm dedicating a day a week to it. But like I said, more so than bending, I love snapping. It's such a great workout.

i'll have to place an order at both Eatchalkgetbig and Horridos..

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18 minutes ago, Blacksmith513 said:

Yeah.. I only tried the G5 6.5" inch once when I was at the end of recovering after my eye surgery.  I think attempting to bend something longer did throw me off a little. Now i'm extremely focused. Bending isn't my #1 goal right now (the inch is) but its something i'm slowly going to build on. I'm dedicating a day a week to it. But like I said, more so than bending, I love snapping. It's such a great workout.

i'll have to place an order at both Eatchalkgetbig and Horridos..

Yeah stick with it man. It will go down faster than. You think.

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On 8/12/2022 at 7:50 PM, jculpepper said:

Yeah stick with it man. It will go down faster than. You think.

Thanks.. I just ordered the beginners bending bag from FBBC this morning.  I don't care about certifying with anything except David Hornes Man Killer challenge which is snapping a G5 G8 and something similar to red nail in under 20 minutes. 

Very very fair price. If I ordered everything and cut it up, i'd have  maybe saved a little money.  Now I will have some actual rated steel and know where to go from here. 

Edited by Blacksmith513
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23 minutes ago, Blacksmith513 said:

Thanks.. I just ordered the beginners bending bag from FBBC this morning.  I don't care about certifying with anything except David Hornes Man Killer challenge which is snapping a G5 G8 and something similar to red nail in under 20 minutes. 

Very very fair price. If I ordered everything and cut it up, i'd have  maybe saved a little money.  Now I will have some actual rated steel and know where to go from here. 

Yeah that is a great place to start. I bought the same bag. It should help you get there for sure. Keep me posted. I'd like to see that.

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Just now, jculpepper said:

Yeah that is a great place to start. I bought the same bag. It should help you get there for sure. Keep me posted. I'd like to see that.

Will do!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still waiting on my order from FBBC.. He makes it clear he can't ship fast so I get it.

I ordered some 1/4 drill rod, should be here tomorrow.  

When wrapping steel for bends, on say a 6" piece... What is the proper wrap placement? I normally go about halfway to 2/3rds of the wrap. I try not to grab onto what overhangs because that seems like it would help with leverage. 

I read so many things, I get myself confused.

 

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Blacksmith513 said:

Still waiting on my order from FBBC.. He makes it clear he can't ship fast so I get it.

I ordered some 1/4 drill rod, should be here tomorrow.  

When wrapping steel for bends, on say a 6" piece... What is the proper wrap placement? I normally go about halfway to 2/3rds of the wrap. I try not to grab onto what overhangs because that seems like it would help with leverage. 

I read so many things, I get myself confused.

 

 

 

I depends on your style of bending. I like to bend over hand because I want to get the biggest nails I can. If you bend over hand too, are you familiar with the pistol grip that's used?  I tend to only put enough leather on the nail some my fingers don't touch steel. Maybe and 1.5" to 2". I grab the leather that hangs off with the rest of my hand. It improves the leverage and essentially makes the nail longer. You will also want this wrap to be as thight as possible.

 

I will try and shoot a video tonight.

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4 minutes ago, jculpepper said:

I depends on your style of bending. I like to bend over hand because I want to get the biggest nails I can. If you bend over hand too, are you familiar with the pistol grip that's used?  I tend to only put enough leather on the nail some my fingers don't touch steel. Maybe and 1.5" to 2". I grab the leather that hangs off with the rest of my hand. It improves the leverage and essentially makes the nail longer. You will also want this wrap to be as thight as possible.

 

I will try and shoot a video tonight.

Thanks. I’m focusing on reverse. It feels most natural to me. I’ve heard of the pistol grip but off hand can’t think how it’s performed.

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