Guest Monkey Paws Posted June 20, 2001 Share Posted June 20, 2001 I am about ready to get back into the grip game. I feel the need to back off climbing so I am not going bouldering again for a couple of weeks. I feel some twinges but that is to be expected when pushing as hard as possible. Specialized grip training will fit the bill for the next couple of weeks then as I return to climbing I hope to maintain some select grip exercises. I slightly tweaked my left wrist when I fell and my thumb got caught while trying to standup out of a mantle on a slackline. Also I have a mild case of climbers elbow (the inside of my right elbow has been tender). True rest might be appropriate but I feel ready to go with something else. Maybe reverse curls and paper crinkling. I could do grippers and plate pinches but I think plate curls would aggravate both my right elbow and left wrist. I could just go for runs and diet while I recover but that doesn’t sound like much fun right now. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the swiss Posted June 20, 2001 Share Posted June 20, 2001 I'd go for pinch work and maybe some gripper work. Hand work that can be done with a fully extended arm and which doesn't pull too much on the wrist. good to have back training the grip train hard david ps: by the way, what are your achievements in bouldering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Monkey Paws Posted June 20, 2001 Share Posted June 20, 2001 Thanks. I see your point, keeping a straight arm should also be good for my elbow. Plate pinches are in. I am interested to see how much strength I have retained in the plate pinch lift anyway; my best max was 85 pounds but I haven’t worked them since back in November or early December of last year. I think the grippers will be o.k. for my elbow and wrist. Maybe some grip machine. There is a sloped fingertip hold on my hangboard that may see some use. I’ve been bouldering for about15 years and I’ve had a great time; I guess that’s an achievement. I have bouldered mostly in the western states. I visited Fontainebleau once to boulder in 1995. Some well-known and cool problems I’ve climbed in the past few months include Blue Suede Shoes at Yosemite, Saigon at the Buttermilks, and The Hulk at the Happy Boulders. I’d really like to step it up. I have my sights set on Midnight Lightning but I am giving myself until the weather cools in October. Congratulations on the certification. What are your bouldering achievements? (Edited by Monkey Paws at 12:55 am on June 20, 2001) (Edited by Monkey Paws at 1:08 am on June 20, 2001) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 20, 2001 Share Posted June 20, 2001 Hi Monkey Paws (Mark isn't it?), You have some great boulder problems there in your climbing resume. How do you find climbing and grip training at the same time? I was wondering as I'm considering getting back into climbing due to a few injuries that are stopping me lifting at the moment. It won't be easy at 215lbs but it will keep me strong, agile and focussed on a strength related avenue. Also what did you do for lower back and leg strength or did you do nothing like a lot of climbers? As for your training question. Why don't you try the rim lift and reverse rim lift. They would still be in keeping with the climbing theme and also are a great pure grip movement. Look forward to your thoughts on climbing. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the swiss Posted June 20, 2001 Share Posted June 20, 2001 your bouldering problems look real cool! I have been climbing for like 4 years, mostly bouldering. In fontainebleau for about two years and then here in switzerland. The thing is I do not know the ratings of most of the problems I've done here. The best I did until now was something like V8 or V9 (a V8 in Fontainebleau and then problems I have found harder here in Switzerland). I now have a hard time climbing in winter (snow), so this winter I focused on grip training. Nick if this can help: I personally now train my grip twice a week (once heavy, and once light) and boulder once. This seems to work for me, but you probably recover faster than me from your grip training, so you might do more. Until recently I had never worked my legs (for strength that is) or lower back. train hard david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scotte Posted June 20, 2001 Share Posted June 20, 2001 Hia I know this is sort of changing the subject slightly, but I've got into scrambling (is that like boldering?) as a result of my grip training. I live in a part of the UK where there are rocky out crops that can be climbed and scrambled safely without the need for ropes. Its great fun, challenging and gets you breathing hard once you have picked a route and go for it without stopping. Out of all the lifts, I have found finger and wrist strength the most useful and would suggest pinch grips, eagle loops, wrist movements (weaver, plate and wrist curls) a basic MUST. I havent found a problem going scrambling for a few hours the day after strap holds and weaver stick training (which I'm doing for the iron grip championships) but saying that, I havent been hanging upside down or with one hand. Ive found powerful legs, hips and calfs combined to excellent flexability essential. Trap bar deadlift, weighted back extensions, hill walking and leg presses seem to help me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.