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My Search For An Inch Dumbbell...


Jaz

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Okay so i contacted a metal company right here in my city. I gave the guy some rough dimensions, i needed a bar segment that is about 8 inches in diameter that weighs 70lb, he calculated that it would be around 5.5 inches long. He said a single piece of this would cost around 225 dollars. This was with the cheapest steel they had apparently. Thats pretty expensive, how much does steel usually cost per pound? Cuz that is 3$+.

So that would be 500 dollars+- for the two cylinders. Then the handle would probably be around 50 dollars. The welding would probably cost 150??? so altogether it would be around 700 dollars. Damn. I want to get under 600.

This is the website by the way, very well made.

http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/

He's obviously quoting you the price for "new" steel. If you're that rich, just have the real thing shipped from England. Otherwise, call around to one of your local scrapyards and see what they have for scrap in big "rounds". The last time I bought used carbon steel it was about .30-35 cents per lb. Maybe a tad more now. Once you know what they have then go to this site:

CRS WEIGHTS PER FOOT

and figure out the lengths you'll need in whatever scrap steel is available. Anything in the 4" - 9" range will work and not look too awkward. Heck, you might even get luck and find some cool hex piece! The scrapyard will make your cuts on their bandsaw for usually a buck or two per cut.

Once you have your parts the only real hard part is finding a welder with enough amps to put it together properly. I got luck with mine and the kid who worked at the shop thought the project was cool and did a lot of work for next to nothing. Mine got set on a lathe and some holes were predrilled for the 2.5" handle to set into a bit. Even with that, he told me he set a cherry on the metal for 10-20 mins just to heat it up enough for the welds to sink in - he was using a 300-400 amp machine iirc. That being said, on the second DB I had made (115lber w/1.75" handle), his boss charged me "normal" price. Ended up costing me about $150 or so, which is still a steal for a solid steel DB of that size. You could easily be in the $200-300 range for a nice homebuilt Inch.

PS - the current scrap prices here in Oregon are .30 per lb.

Hmm. Thanks for the info. I dont know if the scrap yard would have anything like that. Im not sure what people even use the huge bars for lol. (it never hurts to look tho). That seems pretty cheap for the cutting, especially for an 8inch piece, how big was the piece you got cut?

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I believe mine are 7" rounds about 8" long. The handle is a piece of 2 7/16" iirc. It came in at 180lbs. The handle is polished up pretty smooth too, which obviously adds to the difficulty. Cutting with a bandsaw is a piece of cake - it take a bit to get through an 7" piece of crs though. The business that assembled the bell for me has a waterjet machine that will slice 12" thick steel and 24" of aluminum - pretty amazing stuff.

Edited by maidenfan
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One thing that springs to mind is that getting one-offs made may actually be cheaper than going in for a limited run - if you get to know people you can get one-off's done as favours, trades, experiments etc, but if you are producing things "for sale" then this is far more difficult as people will be less willing to forgo their own cut.

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These are the actual dimensions of the original Inch dumbbell as measured by Joe Roark.

172

Overall length - 20 1/2"

globe length - 8 1/4"

handle length - 3 15/16" - there's a 1/16" missing, so there is probably a 1/32" off in the globe length - the handle length's are pretty accurate.

globe circ - 26 3/4"

handle circ - 8 1/4"

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Cast Iron is actually not as brittle as Twig suggests.
[bristle]Oh, isn't it?[/bristle]
Makers tend to add a little to them to make them less brittle than iron used to be many years ago.
Well then they're not cast iron! Cast iron, whether white or grey, whilst stronger than pig iron, is still brittle, which is why it's wasn't used for the handle, which is the weak point.Unless you use malliable cast iron, which will put the cost way out of reach (tens of thousands of pounds).

Hmm, forgot I was trained in metallurgy. Regular grey cast iron, in a spherical lump, if a decent melt (not chinese newspaper and old dog) would/should be okay. Whiteheart or blackheart malleable is, I think, a dying breed (but I stand correcting) due to it's processing requirements. This was after all the original attempt at producing a ductile iron before helium injecting regular iron was discovered to produce the fancy Spheroidal Graphite iron. Regular malleable or SG Iron will add little extra cost if you have the casting made at an SG Iron foundry since they're melting the stuff anyway!

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These are the actual dimensions of the original Inch dumbbell as measured by Joe Roark.

172

Overall length - 20 1/2"

globe length - 8 1/4"

handle length - 3 15/16" - there's a 1/16" missing, so there is probably a 1/32" off in the globe length - the handle length's are pretty accurate.

globe circ - 26 3/4"

handle circ - 8 1/4"

Wow thanks for that! It will definitely help!

-maiden

That sounds like a crazy piece of iron, im assuming you have lifted it, but anyone else ever have a go?

Im in the process of finding a scrap yard here in calgary (internet phone book), too bad most scrapyards don't have fancy web pages heh.

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I can lift it, but I'm no thick bar daddy like some of the other monsters here

Man, that was a nice lift :rock

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I can lift it, but I'm no thick bar daddy like some of the other monsters here

Me like. :rock

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I can lift it, but I'm no thick bar daddy like some of the other monsters here

Insane man! Thats wicked.

GOOD NEWS!!

Okay so things are falling into place here. My dad just replaced a bunch of our appliances, so hes taking them down to a metal place for free disposal. I called that place cuz hes heading down there tommorrow. They dont sell, but they gave me a number of a place that does.

So the lady told me she has 7" round stock of mild steel, weighing 172lb per foot. 6inches of it she said would give me around 70lb. And only 93 dollars for one of the pieces!

They dont sell any 2 and 3/8ths (which is the right handle thickness isnt it?) but thats the easy stuff.

And my dad informed me that my uncle is a very accomplished welder, he has his ticket and everything. Apparently he could weld it all up for me for free!

Should i buy the handle in a 4 inch piece (like the inch) or should i make it a bit longer to account for the welds??

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I can lift it, but I'm no thick bar daddy like some of the other monsters here

Insane man! Thats wicked.

GOOD NEWS!!

Okay so things are falling into place here. My dad just replaced a bunch of our appliances, so hes taking them down to a metal place for free disposal. I called that place cuz hes heading down there tommorrow. They dont sell, but they gave me a number of a place that does.

So the lady told me she has 7" round stock of mild steel, weighing 172lb per foot. 6inches of it she said would give me around 70lb. And only 93 dollars for one of the pieces!

They dont sell any 2 and 3/8ths (which is the right handle thickness isnt it?) but thats the easy stuff.

And my dad informed me that my uncle is a very accomplished welder, he has his ticket and everything. Apparently he could weld it all up for me for free!

Should i buy the handle in a 4 inch piece (like the inch) or should i make it a bit longer to account for the welds??

I should note that i just called the other place which was 225$ and they carry 2 and 7/16ths which is of course just a 16th bigger (probly better that way anyways) and it is 23 dollars. Not bad at all! so i think i might be able to drop in tomorrow and pick this stuff up.

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Should i buy the handle in a 4 inch piece (like the inch) or should i make it a bit longer to account for the welds??

you should talk to your uncle before you cut the handle lengths. He may want to drill out the ends and press the handle into globes.

Congratualtions on finding a way to make an inexpensive inch.

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Should i buy the handle in a 4 inch piece (like the inch) or should i make it a bit longer to account for the welds??

you should talk to your uncle before you cut the handle lengths. He may want to drill out the ends and press the handle into globes.

Congratualtions on finding a way to make an inexpensive inch.

I thought the same thing. To press the handle into the globes are you saying that they would have to be drilled into first (cuz i dont think he has such a tool) or that they would be so hot that the metal would give way to a push?

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I can lift it, but I'm no thick bar daddy like some of the other monsters here

Insane man! Thats wicked.

GOOD NEWS!!

Okay so things are falling into place here. My dad just replaced a bunch of our appliances, so hes taking them down to a metal place for free disposal. I called that place cuz hes heading down there tommorrow. They dont sell, but they gave me a number of a place that does.

So the lady told me she has 7" round stock of mild steel, weighing 172lb per foot. 6inches of it she said would give me around 70lb. And only 93 dollars for one of the pieces!

They dont sell any 2 and 3/8ths (which is the right handle thickness isnt it?) but thats the easy stuff.

And my dad informed me that my uncle is a very accomplished welder, he has his ticket and everything. Apparently he could weld it all up for me for free!

Should i buy the handle in a 4 inch piece (like the inch) or should i make it a bit longer to account for the welds??

4 inches on that dumbell wont be long enough your hand will wedge inbetween them and your lift wont be that ligit and when you get to a real inch it will be way harder for you id make it 5 1/2 inches and that might still tilt to hit your hand good luck

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Should i buy the handle in a 4 inch piece (like the inch) or should i make it a bit longer to account for the welds??

you should talk to your uncle before you cut the handle lengths. He may want to drill out the ends and press the handle into globes.

Congratualtions on finding a way to make an inexpensive inch.

I thought the same thing. To press the handle into the globes are you saying that they would have to be drilled into first (cuz i dont think he has such a tool) or that they would be so hot that the metal would give way to a push?

I am not a very expierienced welder; so I am not sure of the methods of how your uncle can weld the handle to the ends. In another post someone mentioned that they had the globes drilled so the ends of the handle could be pressed into them.

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So the lady told me she has 7" round stock of mild steel, weighing 172lb per foot. 6inches of it she said would give me around 70lb.

The lady can't do math. 12"=172 pounds is not the same as 6"=70 lb. If 12"=172lbs, then 6"=86lbs OR if 6"=70lbs, then 12"=140lbs. I would say though that 7" round should be closer to 120-125lbs per foot.

For the kind of money you'll be spending, make sure you know what you'll actually be getting.

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7" roundstock weighs 130.82lbs per foot (10.90lbs per inch). I'd suggest 7, 7.5", or 8" pieces for your globes which will give you 152.6lbs, 162lbs or 174.4lbs for your globes only. I'd also suggest a 7" piece for your handle. You really need to machine (or drill - good luck on the 2.5" hole saw) some holes as simply welding to the globes will give very little strength for the welds. That'll give you a nice 5" handle with 1" into each globe. Use the link I gave you for whatever handle size you want and rough weight you want. For example, 2.5" is 16.9 lbs per foot. A 7" piece yields 9.85lbs. 9.85 +174.4 = 184.25lbs x .30 per lb for scrap = $55.27 for your scrap metal alone. Scrap prices may differ some where you're at, but it sure sounds like your quote was very high - shop around. The most expensive part (unless your uncle can do it), will be machining the globes to accept the handle.

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So the lady told me she has 7" round stock of mild steel, weighing 172lb per foot. 6inches of it she said would give me around 70lb.

The lady can't do math. 12"=172 pounds is not the same as 6"=70 lb. If 12"=172lbs, then 6"=86lbs OR if 6"=70lbs, then 12"=140lbs. I would say though that 7" round should be closer to 120-125lbs per foot.

For the kind of money you'll be spending, make sure you know what you'll actually be getting.

-and to maiden

I was only really looking for something that weighed around 150lb anyways. Ill check it out tomorrow and see if i can get the weights figured out. The handle would be 2 and 7 16ths so how big should i drill the hole? A 16th bigger? Also the idea for a 7 inch handle sounds like a good one. I guess the difference between a four inch handle and a five inch handle isn't that great. I have pretty small hands, m palm is around 3.75 inches wide. so i think a 5 or 4.75 inch handle would be good. Yea the machining will be expensive for sure.

Thanks

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I have one question for anyone who wants to answer it. If you are not getting an authentic replica, and you are using it for grip, not cleaning, pressing and dropping, why not go with plate loadable DBs? They can be bought (or made) for next to nothing and work well. So long as you don't buy a premium DB with rotating sleeves, it should pretty well simulate an Inch. I have made several regular plate loaders, as well as some that are specific lengths and use threaded rod to lock everything together and don't see either style as being easier than my Coulter 'Bell (not that I can pick up any of them).

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I have one question for anyone who wants to answer it. If you are not getting an authentic replica, and you are using it for grip, not cleaning, pressing and dropping, why not go with plate loadable DBs? They can be bought (or made) for next to nothing and work well. So long as you don't buy a premium DB with rotating sleeves, it should pretty well simulate an Inch. I have made several regular plate loaders, as well as some that are specific lengths and use threaded rod to lock everything together and don't see either style as being easier than my Coulter 'Bell (not that I can pick up any of them).

Cause Inches are cool.

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I have one question for anyone who wants to answer it. If you are not getting an authentic replica, and you are using it for grip, not cleaning, pressing and dropping, why not go with plate loadable DBs? They can be bought (or made) for next to nothing and work well. So long as you don't buy a premium DB with rotating sleeves, it should pretty well simulate an Inch. I have made several regular plate loaders, as well as some that are specific lengths and use threaded rod to lock everything together and don't see either style as being easier than my Coulter 'Bell (not that I can pick up any of them).

I dont want to waste a whole lot of plates on a single bell. And i do plan on dropping it etc, pressing (attempts). its the sort of thing you can leave outside a door in the house, and try and pick it up everyday, with plate loading it would be huge!

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I have one question for anyone who wants to answer it. If you are not getting an authentic replica, and you are using it for grip, not cleaning, pressing and dropping, why not go with plate loadable DBs? They can be bought (or made) for next to nothing and work well. So long as you don't buy a premium DB with rotating sleeves, it should pretty well simulate an Inch. I have made several regular plate loaders, as well as some that are specific lengths and use threaded rod to lock everything together and don't see either style as being easier than my Coulter 'Bell (not that I can pick up any of them).

I dont want to waste a whole lot of plates on a single bell. And i do plan on dropping it etc, pressing (attempts). its the sort of thing you can leave outside a door in the house, and try and pick it up everyday, with plate loading it would be huge!

I used several oly plate loaded handles for a long time before making my Inch. They're cheap and work great - I dropped mine from time to time and didnt have a problem. To be honest, I made my Inch, lifted it a couple of times and its sat in the shop since rusting away. If you just want to train your hands, get a 2.5" dumbell handle made and work up to 200+lbs and the inch will go up.

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