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Calibrated Fat Bastard Stocks


EricMilfeld
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Thanks Eric! I guess I sent you that 11/32" for no reason then :D

Watch it calibrate 50 pounds different.

Haha yeah that'd be funny!! But it's not really that important to calibate if you already have a rough number, I'm not going to be using it for a cert or anything since it's got a stainless type crush on it. So if you want it as a gift for appreciation for the calibration feel free to cut it down and try it, I've got no problem with that if you want. If not, cal it I suppose, this is just an offer

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Here's the results, Derek. You'll notice the 11/32" W-1 drill rod calibrated within 10 pounds of the last one I did.

- 11/32 x 7" W-1 drill rod = 535

- 5/16 x 7" hexagonal = 535

- 1/2 x 7" aluminum = 465

I finished off the aluminum after calibration, and I must say that stuff is fun. I like how it didn't work harden on me and I was able to crush it to past parallel.

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Here's the results, Derek. You'll notice the 11/32" W-1 drill rod calibrated within 10 pounds of the last one I did.

- 11/32 x 7" W-1 drill rod = 535

- 5/16 x 7" hexagonal = 535

- 1/2 x 7" aluminum = 465

I finished off the aluminum after calibration, and I must say that stuff is fun. I like how it didn't work harden on me and I was able to crush it to past parallel.

Yeah I was able to get mine to about parallel as well. Damn fun stuff for sure. If you want I'd be happy to send you a 6" or shorter. I've gotten a 6" to 90 but it starts to ramp up as it get's shorter.

Damn I was really hoping for my hex to be easy so I could work towards the 485 Grand Hex, oh well. Thanks for the calibration Eric, I appreciate it.

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Here's the results, Derek. You'll notice the 11/32" W-1 drill rod calibrated within 10 pounds of the last one I did.

- 11/32 x 7" W-1 drill rod = 535

- 5/16 x 7" hexagonal = 535

- 1/2 x 7" aluminum = 465

I finished off the aluminum after calibration, and I must say that stuff is fun. I like how it didn't work harden on me and I was able to crush it to past parallel.

Yeah I was able to get mine to about parallel as well. Damn fun stuff for sure. If you want I'd be happy to send you a 6" or shorter. I've gotten a 6" to 90 but it starts to ramp up as it get's shorter.

Damn I was really hoping for my hex to be easy so I could work towards the 485 Grand Hex, oh well. Thanks for the calibration Eric, I appreciate it.

Thanks for the offer Derek, but let me check a few local stores first. I seem to remember seeing that stuff recently.

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any idea what a 80D nail cut to 7 inch cals at?

Depends largely on the brand. I had an Ace Hardware (not sure the brand) 120d spike cut to 7" that cal'd at 565, but that's a pretty easy spike so it depends.

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  • 1 month later...

Eric, I have a couple questions on the square stock you've calibrated. Was it done on the flat as opposed to on the corner? I've read people saying that bending on the flat is harder than bending on the corner (almost every pic I see is with the square stock bent on the corner). You're an experienced bender yourself so maybe you can say if it "feels" any different. Do you think the results would be different if two pieces of the same square stock were calibrated using both methods?

I'm still new to bending (been at it for 3-4 months) and in my neck of the woods the only regular steel available is metric. I have no clue if it's CRS or HRS and the guys running the hardware stores can't help me with that question (not surprising). Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any 8mm round stock which would be closest to the 5/16" stuff everyone is familiar with. I can get stainless round in 1/4" & 5/16"...but it's a bit cost prohibitive for regular bending, not to mention HARD!. :erm I have worked my way up using 5mm, 6mm and 7mm round (starting at 7" and working down to 5"). The 7mm x 5" I have still not killed but I'm close. Anyway, the next thing up in round stock is 9mm and that's too big a jump even at 7". So, the obvious choice is square stock and it comes in weird sizes 6.5mm, 7mm, etc. I got the 7mm square thinking it might be within reach but I got humbled and barely moved it at 7". The stock is cheap here so I'm not really eager to buy any FBBC stock until I know I'm in Bastard range (costs a lot to ship anything down here). I should have done my homework before I went shopping then I would have picked up the 6.5mm square (I'll get it next time).

My shopping mistake got me thinking about the cross-sectional area of the steel. I went and did some math for a bit and came up with some interesting numbers on the stock. The 7mm square has an area of 49mm2 and 5/16" round has an area of 49.458mm2...very close. Common sense tells me that if I can get the 7mm square I should be able to get the 5/16" round (assuming the material was the same type) but that "feel" part of it could change things. My 7mm round stock has an area of 38.465mm2 and the 6.5mm square has an area of 42.25mm2. That should make a better stepping stone for me. :happy

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In my opinion, bending on the flat side is easier, but trying to make the bend start on the flat side is harder. After it has been kinked, the rest will be easier than the sharp side. At least that's what I experienced.

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In my opinion, bending on the flat side is easier, but trying to make the bend start on the flat side is harder. After it has been kinked, the rest will be easier than the sharp side. At least that's what I experienced.

Did you misstate that Alawadhi because that didn't make sense to me. Bending on the flat is FAR harder because when you go to crush it down there's far more steel to bend across (the cross section of the bent steel) then if it was on the corner. Basically bending on the flat gives you more steel to bend which obviously makes it harder.

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If you mean I misstate porpusly then you're wrong. Why should I? That's why I said in my opinion and from my experience :tongue If I show you the steel I have bent then you will see that on the flat side is crushed down more than the sharp side. Anyway this is what I've experience and I will stick to it.

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Actually, if you measure across the digonal, the measurement will be slightly longer than on the flat. Like a 15" computer monitor in only 10" high or whatever. That said, I have bent both ways, and across the diagonal is MUCH easier for me...not even in the same ballpark. I have even started a piece on the flat, gotten stuck, then adjusted so it started bending on a corner and made it.

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Gumpster, the design of my calibration device doesn't lend itself to getting an on point bend. Usually, the steel bends just shy of being completely flat. Normally when I'm bending square stock double overhand and reverse grip the steel will bend on point, but I've had more than a few come out on the flat or somewhere in between, unintentionally. The math predicts a harder bend on the flat, but I've been unable to detect a difference in feel, but I really haven't experimented with it. The funny thing is that I would think the steel would follow the path of least resistance, and yet, it doesn't always bend in a predictable way. I guess if you grip the bar hard enough it can overcome the bar's tendency to bend along a certain line, which seems to suggest that the difference in strength required to bend it on the flat, as opposed to on point, is marginal.

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eric have you done any 6'' x 5/16'' BL bolts? if so what do they cal at?

If you're just looking for general opinions, I do not think they are any easier or harder than most G2's. I have bent numerous different brands, and thus far they all pretty much feel the same...I'd guess the kink to be a little tougher than a G8, but the crush is easier.

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Eric, Derek & Alawadhi, thanks for the replies guys. Since there really hasn't been any specific testing on the square stuff (flat vs point) I guess it comes down to feel. For everyone that could be different as it seems to have played out here...relax guys. :D When I get some square under my belt I'll have to see if I can feel a difference.

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Have you done any 1/4" hex CRS? How does it compare to a G5?

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  • 1 month later...
Have you done any 1/4" hex CRS? How does it compare to a G5?

255@7"

331@6"

Pretty close length for length Depending on the hex of course

Brendan

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Have you done any 1/4" hex CRS? How does it compare to a G5?

I've found the 1/4" Hex-1018 is very close in feel to the Triangle G5s and the TY-FNL that FBBC sells.

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I recently received some 5.5"x1/4" g5 bolts from FBBC with what appears to be either 2 triangles or a diamond. Does anyone know the calibration on these?

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I recently received some 5.5"x1/4" g5 bolts from FBBC with what appears to be either 2 triangles or a diamond. Does anyone know the calibration on these?

The larger symbol ones hit only 385 and 390 for me although they feel MUCH tougher. Some have a smaller symbol and are near G8 levels.

Tim

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  • 2 months later...

I calibrated the tougher stock to be used at the Backyard Bastard Bash and came across the easiest triangle Edgin to date: 540. Also calibrated was a triangle big grade 8 at 685, which is in keeping with previous results.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone know what a 5/16 X 5.5 G2 would be at? I know the g2s are all over. Just if anyone has a ballpark guess.

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If you're looking at the hard G2s, I'd guess around 460-480lb. :unsure

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  • 3 months later...

First question, what is Steel Works? I Googled it and didn't come up with anything definite or helpful. I'm curious because I have some 5/16" HRS that must be much harder than the stuff listed with the 380 poundage rating. I just put down a 5.5"x1/4" G5 with ease and also put a 5"x1/4" Black JH G5 down to roughly 105deg, but the the 5/16" HRS stock I have I can't even wobble!

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