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#1 OFFLINE   Mike Sharkey

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 02:03 PM

Just got my Sorinex Axle.  Wanted to post here saying its fantastic!  Coating is great texture and it came in a week.  I'm new to axle training, but i can't recommend this bar enough!


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#2 OFFLINE   jvance

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 02:09 PM

how does it compare to the IM?.. in terms of texture - i was tentative because it looks to be powdercoated



#3 OFFLINE   Mike Sharkey

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 02:21 PM

Chez says the IM one is smooth.  This one is powdercoated, but I love it.  also the IM one is like 250$ plus $1100 dollars for shipping.   :tongue 

 

He says he pretty much pulls the same.  


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#4 OFFLINE   jvance

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 05:50 PM

oh ok, thanks man



#5 OFFLINE   barbe705

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 04:30 AM

you could always strip the powder coat if you wanted to.



#6 OFFLINE   Mike Sharkey

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 01:57 PM

yeah i think with a sander it would be no problem.  However, I actually like it.



#7 OFFLINE   climber511

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 02:00 PM

I think Andrew was talking to Richard about making and selling a bare steel model???



#8 OFFLINE   Mephistopholes

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Posted 15 June 2013 - 02:39 PM

I would not alter it.

#9 OFFLINE   1stCoC

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 08:21 AM

A natural or sandblasted finish while prone to sweat and atmospheric conditions is the closest you can get to a one on one pure steel contact. Seasoning in particular natural seasoning will form a tough hard brown patina that like a fine old rifle barrel having a brown coating and give a great gripping surface.If used a a regular basis red (active rust ) will halt and turn into the brown, long lasting shell. Our bars like the original Apollon Bell used is 1.9" in diameter. If you want a custom finish we can do it ...just inquire by email.

#10 OFFLINE   Jedd Johnson

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 11:52 AM

I would not alter the Axle, Mike.  I would just train on it religiously and then cross-reference your PR on it versus on Chez's or someone else's IM Bar and just see how they compare.

 

Incidentally, all IM Axles aren't the same either.  They season differently.  Andrew's looks nothing like mine as far as coloring.  The petina, like Richard mentioned, is at a different stage.  They feel similar, but I pull more on mine.  It is just something I take note of in my training.

 

Can't wait to hear some of the numbers you put up with it bro!

 

Jedd



#11 OFFLINE   Mike Sharkey

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 06:55 PM

Nothing impressive yet.  250# baseline today on Nate's smooth axle today.  Goal is 300# by year end.  

 

As far as the coating goes, I have no plans to mess with this fine instrument of strength and happiness.


Edited by Mike Sharkey, 18 June 2013 - 07:07 PM.


#12 OFFLINE   matrixsleeper

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 05:53 AM

Has anyone here who owns or pulls on a Sorinex Axel ever use or pull on a home made axel (1.9" piping from a hardware store)?? If so how does it compare?

 

Other question is how big of a difference is the Sorinex Axel vs the IM Axel?

 

I'm thinking of maybe adding this Sorinex Axel to my Xmas list but want to be able to justify getting it over my home made axel.



#13 OFFLINE   ADurniat

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 06:07 AM

We have and use both regularly.  I feel there is about a 20# difference in what I can pull on the Sorinex axle to the IM axle (I can go heavier on the Sorinex).  Both have held up great to repeated Clean and Jerks up to 300# (we're working on going heavier).  The textured surface of the Sorinex is nice for cleans, not all collars fit securely on the Sorinex, so get some quality ones.  It makes a great addition if you like thickbar work.



#14 OFFLINE   Mike Sharkey

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 07:57 AM

I was actually wondering if I might be stronger on one without the textured surface.  I actually seemed to have an easier time on Nate's smooth pipe than on my own axle.  

 

Clean and Jerks up to 300# (
 um, wow  :blink

#15 OFFLINE   matrixsleeper

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 08:05 AM

Mike is Nate's a home made smooth axel? I think it might be if I recall.

 

I think it depends on your approach to the smooth axel vs the textured one. I have a smooth axel as well and never really use chalk. I'll use a little spit in my hands and rub them together to get that natural tacky feeling so it sticks to the bar. My Saxon bar has that same textured surface as the Sorinex fatbar and with that I use chalk. I prefer using chalk but again it will depend on the approach.



#16 OFFLINE   anwnate

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 08:17 AM

Mike is Nate's a home made smooth axel? I think it might be if I recall.

 

 

Piece o' black pipe.  I sanded the paint off of gripping area for fear I may be training with an advantage.



#17 OFFLINE   Mike Sharkey

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 08:17 AM

Yeah Nate's is smooth.  I think the chalk on my Sorinex axle might axle be INCREASING friction.  Something I read in Jedd's eBook on Blobs about it possibly acting as microscopic ball bearings.  My best pull was on Nates's and I haven't been able to duplicate it at home.  This might just be beginner problems, but physics will back me up that more surface area (smooth), will technically cause more friction than textured.  I'm still new to this so I can't really draw any conclusions, but on RT and on the Anvil I got from Delmar, I basically like no chalk, and when I was bending steel, let me tell you, I couldn't put enough chalk on my hands.  

 

Anyway, I think the Sorinex is a good value for the money, but I have been considering removing the finish.  



#18 OFFLINE   jchap

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 11:39 AM

Yeah Nate's is smooth.  I think the chalk on my Sorinex axle might axle be INCREASING friction.  Something I read in Jedd's eBook on Blobs about it possibly acting as microscopic ball bearings.  My best pull was on Nates's and I haven't been able to duplicate it at home.  This might just be beginner problems, but physics will back me up that more surface area (smooth), will technically cause more friction than textured.  I'm still new to this so I can't really draw any conclusions, but on RT and on the Anvil I got from Delmar, I basically like no chalk, and when I was bending steel, let me tell you, I couldn't put enough chalk on my hands.  

 

Anyway, I think the Sorinex is a good value for the money, but I have been considering removing the finish.  

Do you mean that the chalk is decreasing the friction on the Sorinex?  If you have too much chalk on your hands, it can act as a bunch of little ball bearings and then lead to less friction. 

 

It isn't necessarily true that there will be more surface area on a smooth surface because with knurling the skin can wrap around each little edge or surface of the knurl and contact it.



#19 OFFLINE   Mike Sharkey

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Posted 01 November 2013 - 12:57 PM

It isn't necessarily true that there will be more surface area on a smooth surface because with knurling the skin can wrap around each little edge or surface of the knurl and contact it.
 

 

Interesting.  I just took it for a spin today, with much much less chalk and that felt good.  Like blobs, maybe less is more.  



#20 OFFLINE   jvance

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:53 AM

i would sand it down with a very fine grit paper... don't want to take too much off