520 replies to this topic

[daniel reinard]

I guess I'll start one of these too now that I've diversified my grip craving.

I started grippers Sept 1 and was able to close the #2 both hands. Just last week I closed the #2.5 RH.

I started bending yesterday. I played with some 3/16" round CR and today a 40d nail. I bent DO on the 3/16" yesterday and DU on the 40d nail today. I started a kink on 1/4" HR round DU so I think that's my strong style. But I like them both so will try to bend both styles.

I pinched once for a baseline and did 2x25 both hands. Today while showing a fellow climbing buddy some pinching I did 2x35 RH.

So my grip training priority: climbing, #3 cert, blue nail, 2x45 plate pinch. I think the first two will get lots of attention but the last two not so much. Will find out...

[Malice]

I'm glad to see you starting a log here! I'll definitely be checking it out. Pinching 2x35's is pretty impressive. I haven't tried it myself but I can almost guarantee I can't do it.

[daniel reinard]

Thanks Russ. Yeah I surprised myself with that 2x35 pinch lift. Give it a go, you might do the same.

Today was a long grip day. Started off playing around with metal stock. Tried DO and DU. I ended up with a max DU on a 40d nail. Tight wraps and chalk make a difference!

Went climbing. Bouldered V1-V5 for 30 minutes. Then lead climbed 10d, 11a, 11c. After climbing found out I could pinch 2x35 plates RH.

Working graveyards so will finish day off with grippers.
#1 10 rep no set
#2 1 rep mms
#2.5 1 rep mms
#3 1 rep mms
#3 1 rep mms
#2.5 1 rep mms
#2.5 1 rep mms
#2 5 rep no set
Gave up, hands hurt from bending and climbing.
Cool down with rubber band extensor work.

Not a good gripper day but needed to stop. Not many closes and felt was doing more harm than good.

[Big T]

Thanks Russ. Yeah I surprised myself with that 2x35 pinch lift. Give it a go, you might do the same.

Today was a long grip day. Started off playing around with metal stock. Tried DO and DU. I ended up with a max DU on a 40d nail. Tight wraps and chalk make a difference!

Went climbing. Bouldered V1-V5 for 30 minutes. Then lead climbed 10d, 11a, 11c. After climbing found out I could pinch 2x35 plates RH.

Working graveyards so will finish day off with grippers.
#1 10 rep no set
#2 1 rep mms
#2.5 1 rep mms
#3 1 rep mms
#3 1 rep mms
#2.5 1 rep mms
#2.5 1 rep mms
#2 5 rep no set
Gave up, hands hurt from bending and climbing.
Cool down with rubber band extensor work.

Not a good gripper day but needed to stop. Not many closes and felt was doing more harm than good.

Great gripper workout and glad to hear you got 2 35's pinch...a log to follow for sure. Keep going

[Joefrey]

Nice job !

Keep up the hard work !

[daniel reinard]

Did some bending today. All steel is SteelWorks brand. Apparently good stuff? Kinks sharp.
3/16" x 5" round CRS: 2x DO, 2x DU, 2x Rv
1/4" x 7" round HRS: Could only start kink DU, finish kink Rv, sweep DO to finish crush
1/4" x 6.5" round HRS: Same technique
1/4" x 6" round HRS: Same again

I am strong at a kink DU, sometimes I'll kink a bit more Rv before the DO sweep. I'm still playing with form and wraps. (Dogs ate my first wraps, apparently I also feed them beef rawhide bones, must have smelled good.) I need 3/16" square CRS for more volume work but haven't found any in stores yet. With an in between stock I can work on better form strictly in each style. Looking for IM yellow and blue nails for purchase.

[Big T]

Did some bending today. All steel is SteelWorks brand. Apparently good stuff? Kinks sharp.
3/16" x 5" round CRS: 2x DO, 2x DU, 2x Rv
1/4" x 7" round HRS: Could only start kink DU, finish kink Rv, sweep DO to finish crush
1/4" x 6.5" round HRS: Same technique
1/4" x 6" round HRS: Same again

I am strong at a kink DU, sometimes I'll kink a bit more Rv before the DO sweep. I'm still playing with form and wraps. (Dogs ate my first wraps, apparently I also feed them beef rawhide bones, must have smelled good.) I need 3/16" square CRS for more volume work but haven't found any in stores yet. With an in between stock I can work on better form strictly in each style. Looking for IM yellow and blue nails for purchase.

Dogs eating the wraps is crazy Good luck on that bending

[daniel reinard]

Did some bending today. All steel is SteelWorks brand. Apparently good stuff? Kinks sharp.
3/16" x 5" round CRS: 2x DO, 2x DU, 2x Rv
1/4" x 7" round HRS: Could only start kink DU, finish kink Rv, sweep DO to finish crush
1/4" x 6.5" round HRS: Same technique
1/4" x 6" round HRS: Same again

I am strong at a kink DU, sometimes I'll kink a bit more Rv before the DO sweep. I'm still playing with form and wraps. (Dogs ate my first wraps, apparently I also feed them beef rawhide bones, must have smelled good.) I need 3/16" square CRS for more volume work but haven't found any in stores yet. With an in between stock I can work on better form strictly in each style. Looking for IM yellow and blue nails for purchase.

Finished up today with climbing and a couple pinch lifts. Focused on long routes and volume.
Bouldered 1x V0, V1, V2, V3, V4.
Lead 10c, 10d, 11a/b, 11c, 10d, 11b, 11b
2x25 plates 5 second hold
2x35 plates only a few inches air RH, negatives LH
2x25 plates 10 second hold

Then made my way to the bar for a few fantastic Belgian mirco brews.

[Joefrey]

Nice job (not only at the bar of course !)

[daniel reinard]

Grippers today, still feeling yesterday's workout.

1 set #1 x 5 rep no set
2 set #2 x 1 rep
5 set #2.5 x 1 rep no closes today
1 set #2.5 x 2 rep negatives
1 set #2 x 1 rep
1 set #1.5 x 5 rep

Decided to try more bending, had just bought some new bolts and bar stocks.

All bends DU kink, DO sweep
1/4"x6" G2 steel bolt, zinc plated was easy
60d nail hard but thought it should be harder
1/4"x6" round CRS tough one but didn't feel it was a max effort, brand is Steelworks.

I guess I'm ready to try some yellow and blue nails. I think I could do a blue if the bends from today were good ones (not cheap steel).

[Malice]

Nice job on the bends. You got those ends nice and tight.

[Big T]

Grippers today, still feeling yesterday's workout.

1 set #1 x 5 rep no set
2 set #2 x 1 rep
5 set #2.5 x 1 rep no closes today
1 set #2.5 x 2 rep negatives
1 set #2 x 1 rep
1 set #1.5 x 5 rep

Decided to try more bending, had just bought some new bolts and bar stocks.

All bends DU kink, DO sweep
1/4"x6" G2 steel bolt, zinc plated was easy
60d nail hard but thought it should be harder
1/4"x6" round CRS tough one but didn't feel it was a max effort, brand is Steelworks.




I guess I'm ready to try some yellow and blue nails. I think I could do a blue if the bends from today were good ones (not cheap steel).

Good job on the bending

[daniel reinard]

Took two days off. Today was grippers and bending.

1 set #1 x 5 rep no set
2 sets #2 x 1 rep
2 sets #2.5 x 1 rep both hands ~.3"
1 set #3 x 1 rep
5 sets #2.5 x 1 rep ~.3"
1 set #2 x 1 rep

Left hand got stronger but RH is weaker. Now hands are even. I banged my elbow pretty hard on Thursday climbing, still a bit sore. Maybe the cause?

7" 3/16 CRS 1 x DO, DU, Rv
7" 1/4 CRS 1 x DU
6" 5/16" G2 DU fail
6" 1/4" B7 DU fail
6" 1/4 1 x DU
5.5" 1/4 CRS 1 x DU Best bend so far
5" 1/4 CRS put a small kink in bar
7" 5/16" DO, DU, Rv fails
6" 1/4 G2 Rv and DO

Didn't feel as strong at bending compared to Friday. DO and Rv getting better but needs work.

1 set #2.5 x 1 rep negative hold
1 set #2 x 1 rep negative hold
Rubber bands and sledge work cooldown.

Not a good PR day but was able to work it hard. Next workout in 3 days.

[daniel reinard]

Grippers and bending again today. Have not climbed this week.

2 sets #1 x 5 rep TNS
2 sets #2 x 1 rep MMS
4 sets #2.5 x 1 rep MMS ~.3" both hands, RH a bit better but not where I was, LH still improving
1 set #3 x 1 rep
3 sets #2 x 1 rep TNS ~.4" both hands

7" 1/4 HRS one each of DO, DU, Rv
6" 1/4 CRS one each of DU, Rv
5" 1/4 CRS DU
6" 1/4 B7 bolt (between a G5 and G8) put a kink in it
7" 5/16 HRS fail
6" 5/16 G2 fail (found out it's a hard G2)

1 set #3 x 1 rep negative
sledge work
rubberbands
finger board pullups and hangs

Each day I bend I get a new PR, today I'd say it was the 5" 1/4 CRS. It's hard not to push myself. Really feeling it in my wrists when bending. Best at DU, then Rv, weakest at DO. Have a hard time at the kink, can't hold wrists in place. RH getting back to normal in grippers, but slowly. LH still coming on strong. Almost been training grippers 2 months, this is my second week of bending. Thinking I should take a week off, especially for the elbow, and also the wrists getting used to bending.

[AlexR]

Grippers and bending again today. Have not climbed this week.

2 sets #1 x 5 rep TNS
2 sets #2 x 1 rep MMS
4 sets #2.5 x 1 rep MMS ~.3" both hands, RH a bit better but not where I was, LH still improving
1 set #3 x 1 rep
3 sets #2 x 1 rep TNS ~.4" both hands

7" 1/4 HRS one each of DO, DU, Rv
6" 1/4 CRS one each of DU, Rv
5" 1/4 CRS DU
6" 1/4 B7 bolt (between a G5 and G8) put a kink in it
7" 5/16 HRS fail
6" 5/16 G2 fail (found out it's a hard G2)

1 set #3 x 1 rep negative
sledge work
rubberbands
finger board pullups and hangs

Each day I bend I get a new PR, today I'd say it was the 5" 1/4 CRS. It's hard not to push myself. Really feeling it in my wrists when bending. Best at DU, then Rv, weakest at DO. Have a hard time at the kink, can't hold wrists in place. RH getting back to normal in grippers, but slowly. LH still coming on strong. Almost been training grippers 2 months, this is my second week of bending. Thinking I should take a week off, especially for the elbow, and also the wrists getting used to bending.

Good stuff,but if your new to bending take it easy,and get plenty of rest in between.It can take its toll on your wrists.

[daniel reinard]

I'm limiting myself to twice a week max. But I fall under that new guy, going for a PR each workout, type of guy. I'll settle down when I hit a wall and finely get into a routine.

My next workout is Monday but I am seriously considering making this week my deload week. It'll only be an extra three days. I'm about due for one, plus I can force myself to settle down and save my wrists and elbow.

[daniel reinard]

Bought some more bolts today and had to give them a try. I found out my wrists are still pretty sore so I stopped and will continue to rest to finish out a week. While messing around with bending I got a 60d nail cut down to 5.5" with DO style. I suck at DO but today I read up on some technique and it worked. After that I picked up my IM #2 and gave it a squeeze each hand. I felt decent so tried the 2.5. I think if I get more rest I could click it again RH and the LH may only be a couple weeks away. Resting is harder than workouts!

[AlexR]

Bought some more bolts today and had to give them a try. I found out my wrists are still pretty sore so I stopped and will continue to rest to finish out a week. While messing around with bending I got a 60d nail cut down to 5.5" with DO style. I suck at DO but today I read up on some technique and it worked. After that I picked up my IM #2 and gave it a squeeze each hand. I felt decent so tried the 2.5. I think if I get more rest I could click it again RH and the LH may only be a couple weeks away. Resting is harder than workouts!

Cool,and I know wht you men about resting,I never seem to go a day,without trying something,grippers or lifting.

[daniel reinard]

Started grippers and bending after a week off. Still played with both a bit, so hard not to though. I have a climbing comp on Friday. I haven't practiced at all, just doing it for fun anyways. Didn't work out too hard so I don't suck too bad on Friday. Probably wise to ease back into workouts anyways.

2 sets #1 x 5 rep no set closes
2 sets #2 x 1 rep MMS closes
1 set #2.5 x 1 rep MMS RH and LH closes! RH not hurt anymore and LH's first 2.5 close.
1 set #3 x 1 rep MMS attempt
2 sets #2.5 x 1 rep no set attempts
1 set #2 x 1 rep no set closes, LH ~.1"
4 sets #2.5 x 1 rep MMS 3 RH closes, no LH

LH thumb muscle a bit sore so stopped.

10x 8"x1/4" CRS DO
1x 6.5"x 1/4" CRS DO
1x 7"x1/4" CRS DO
1x 6"x1/4" B7 bolt attempt, small kink


2 sets #2.5 x 1 rep holds
rubber bands
hangboard pullups

[bencrush]

Some very good work being done here Daniel!