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In Need Of Help Progression To Red Nail Reverse.


JoshW

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So my goal is to reverse bend a red nail within the next few months and need help for the progression from 60D/blue nail to red nail.

I know the reds stock at the moment have been around 440? What can I reverse to bridge the gap between the two? I am buying a wrist developer soon with a crom spring to help.

What about drill rods etc? is it worth actually buying reds and trying to reverse them?

Here is an image of what ive been bending recently, stainless 60D's and its become too easy for me.

post-23364-0-98297800-1397507923_thumb.j

Thanks!

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Im also on my way to red. I have just been getting bigger and bigger 0-1 drill rod. You might want to start around 17/64 or 9/32. Very small jumps so the constant progress keeps you motivated. Good luck

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The way I did it was with 1/4" square and gradually cutting it back and with 6 x 1/4" gr8 bolts. Don't kill yourself with volume and just hit it with everything you've got once every 7-10 days.

Teaching yourself how to maintain a long hit is key. Do all of your damage in 2-3 hits. Reverse the bar after the first hit to try and put some bend away from the initial kink.

Edited by Shoggoth
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The way I did it was with 1/4" square and gradually cutting it back and with 6 x 1/4" gr8 bolts. Don't kill yourself with volume and just hit it with everything you've got once every 7-10 days.

Teaching yourself how to maintain a long hit is key. Do all of your damage in 2-3 hits. Reverse the bar after the first hit to try and put some bend away from the initial kink.

this

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The way I did it was with 1/4" square and gradually cutting it back and with 6 x 1/4" gr8 bolts. Don't kill yourself with volume and just hit it with everything you've got once every 7-10 days.

Teaching yourself how to maintain a long hit is key. Do all of your damage in 2-3 hits. Reverse the bar after the first hit to try and put some bend away from the initial kink.

Sound advice! I used to just give up because the bar never used to move but holding the hits longer that's when the bar started to move.

haven't tried gr8 bolts before will look into this.

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Play with 12 LB sledge too and you'll get it

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Talk to Ivan B. He will help you. I'd say currently he is in the top 3 best reverse benders to date. I don't mean to piss in your Cheerios but if you are reversing a blue and hope to reverse a red in a few months it won't happen. Most strong DO benders once on a blue takes 6+ months to get to a red. Reverse is much much much more challenging. Realistically I'd say your almost a year out. But send Ivan a pm, that will give you a better idea.

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Talk to Ivan B. He will help you. I'd say currently he is in the top 3 best reverse benders to date. I don't mean to piss in your Cheerios but if you are reversing a blue and hope to reverse a red in a few months it won't happen. Most strong DO benders once on a blue takes 6+ months to get to a red. Reverse is much much much more challenging. Realistically I'd say your almost a year out. But send Ivan a pm, that will give you a better idea.

I have sent him a message. Im at the harder end of the 60D's id say, they feel a lot harder than a blue but I guess im up for the challenge. If it takes me a year then fair enough but I will get their :grin: thank you for taking the time to reply

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Here is the advice I can give you. Now I'm a DO bender, that's what I do best. I know virtually nothing about reverse. But I know going back and forth from 7" to 6" makes progression tough. If you are serious about reversing a red stick with 7" stock from here on out.

Here is a great list of stock weights. These are close to actual weight. So keep that in mind.

http://az-grip.com/calibration.php

Buy some bolt cutters or a dremel with a cut-off wheel. Then go here http://www.toolanddie.com/~smgr2/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=T and buy some drill rod. Keep a log, start slow and be consistent.

Hope this helps.

Ninja edit: tuff foot will help build the proper calluses in the thumb web and tiger balm yellow will help ease the top of hand pain and fore arm pain.

Edited by EJ Livesey
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I was a mid-pack reverse bender at my best. But I fought for every damn bit of that strength. Best reverse bend was a 7" Bastard back in 2007. What the guys above said is great advice.

The single piece of advice that gave me the biggest bang-for-the-buck in reverse bending was "hold the hit for TWICE as long as you want to." That was sage advice for me, because I used to hold a hit for a second or two and then give up if I didn't feel the steel moving. My reverse strength didn't shoot up in record time. But it definitely increased pace after getting and heeding the advice to hold the hit for twice as long as I usually did.

Since then, anyone I've helped with their bending is given the exact same advice for all styles of bending. Double overhand lagging? Hold the hit longer. Double underhand lagging? Hold the hit longer. Braced bending lagging? Hold the hit longer.

Holding the hit longer helps (in my experience) more with reverse and double underhand styles. Didn't have as much carryover on double overhand for me. It just sapped me so the rest of the bend was agony. But what do I know about DO bending? :)

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Look what I found :cool

Ninja edit: tuff foot will help build the proper calluses in the thumb web and tiger balm yellow will help ease the top of hand pain and fore arm pain.

oh tuff foot yes. i followed that regimen after every bending session. tuff foot on the hands and slathering tiger balm on my forearms and elbows. it helped a ton.

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I was a mid-pack reverse bender at my best. But I fought for every damn bit of that strength. Best reverse bend was a 7" Bastard back in 2007. What the guys above said is great advice.

The single piece of advice that gave me the biggest bang-for-the-buck in reverse bending was "hold the hit for TWICE as long as you want to." That was sage advice for me, because I used to hold a hit for a second or two and then give up if I didn't feel the steel moving. My reverse strength didn't shoot up in record time. But it definitely increased pace after getting and heeding the advice to hold the hit for twice as long as I usually did.

Since then, anyone I've helped with their bending is given the exact same advice for all styles of bending. Double overhand lagging? Hold the hit longer. Double underhand lagging? Hold the hit longer. Braced bending lagging? Hold the hit longer.

Holding the hit longer helps (in my experience) more with reverse and double underhand styles. Didn't have as much carryover on double overhand for me. It just sapped me so the rest of the bend was agony. But what do I know about DO bending? :)

7" reverse bastard is insane dude!

Great advice from everyone, awesome tutorials very useful. I am in the beginning stages of this so my technique will continue to improve.

Just awaiting a reply from ivan now to see what he says :grin:

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I was perhaps a bit of a natural on reverse bending and struggled terribly on DO. My journey to a Reverse Red wasn't all that long - Grade 5s for a while (pretty much started there) - then 1/4" square x 7" for a while - then a Red in a Comp - then some 505 DR (6") in a comp - and then a few cut down Reds done in training only - then I started having shoulder trouble and gave up all bending. Reverse always made sense to my body - much more so than DO ever did. The one thing I always hated was the Grade 8 bolts - those springy things were nasty - I'd rather do a Red anytime than one of those. I think the wrist strength from work and sledge levering was the reason behind it for me. Reverse bending never found my hands or wrists to be the weak link - it was always my upper arm and shoulder strength that limited me. These were all done with leather wraps around an inch - any bigger and I couldn't do as much. My advice is take it slow - I often wished I had "trained" instead of "testing" all the time - I might have been able to do it for a lot longer time period.

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I have found that personally reverse is more natural for me than DO or DU. It just feels right. When I first started I was trying to train every day or like three days in a row and I didn't realise at the time but that was getting me no where. Now im resting and doing it every 3 or 4 days and this is why I have made the most progress and im glad that I have learned this so early on.

I am sorry to hear that you have stopped training something that came natural to you and something that you are good at.

1/4" square x 7" sounds like the next step for me, just need to try find in local hardware stores

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onlinemetals is where I got everything except 0-1. They will cut to size, or if you have big bolt cutters, you can just buy the 3' length. Also, they will sell you 10$ worth of steel.

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I didn't find using shorter pieces hurt my progression at all as my grip is pretty much the same regardless of the stock.

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Talk to Ivan B. He will help you. I'd say currently he is in the top 3 best reverse benders to date. I don't mean to piss in your Cheerios but if you are reversing a blue and hope to reverse a red in a few months it won't happen. Most strong DO benders once on a blue takes 6+ months to get to a red. Reverse is much much much more challenging. Realistically I'd say your almost a year out. But send Ivan a pm, that will give you a better idea.

It only took me a couple months starting around a 60d nail level, I think learning to hold a prolonged hit is the hardest part. Depending on how strong your wrists are too start its more getting used to the technique and pain issues. Also if your have a strong upperbody you can use that to your advantage big time on all bending to progress faster. I don't want to say its mostly mental but a lot of it is, holding those hits for longer at full intensity takes mental adaption to pain more then anything. You could be strong enough but if you can't hold the hit long enough its not going to start to heat up to bend. Good luck man. My advice loud music and some beer after after your warmed up and just give the steel everything you got.

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To come up in reverse from 60D to a red nail in couple of months, you must be at least Stephen Ruby.

Here are my tips for you:

1) You must become overall heavier and stronger. Benching, squats, deadlifting, heavy pullups, heavy dumbbell hammer curls - that's the point. Gain the weight to at least 175 lbs. 155 is not enough, for sure.

2) Wrist developer and sledge levers (in ALL directions) are priceless for beginning. Toughening the thumb web and wrist joint in much more smooth way than bending does.

But don't focus on it later. Level 12-13 on WD2 or 20-22 lbs in sledge to head won't guarantee you reversing a red nail without working with steel itself.

3) 6" is useless for reverse, working below 6.5" is a feat more of grip strength, than wrist strength. I was easily reversing 5.5" g8 bolts in DHWOG wraps touching, but still gave to red only a wobble.

To reverse 7" stuff - wrist strength has a main role. It also has diffenet bio-kinematics.

4) Work your bending strength untill you can easily reverse FBBC squares (5 in a row on one arm), and write me again. That means you are ready to bring your intensity to another level. Before that - > it will mangle you.

5) Of course NO THICK WRAPS!!! not even 1" suede!! IMPs only, 1 imp or DHWOG 3/4" leathers

Good luck, feel free to ask me any time.

Edited by Ivan Beritashvili
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