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Calibrated Fat Bastard Stocks


EricMilfeld

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I calibrated the FBBC spikes and the Grip Rite brand spikes. The 12" galvanized Grip Rite is the perfect beginner's spike. Also calibrated is a black colored "JH" brand grade 5 bolt, which are significantly harder than the zinc coated FBBC bolts (there's a first). Gripmaniac was kind enough to send me several of these bolts all the way from Australia. They would be perfect for bridging the gap between a standard grade 5 and grade 8.

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cool! i've been wondering about the spikes.

any estimation on those 5/16'' x 7'' G5's?

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cool! i've been wondering about the spikes.

any estimation on those 5/16'' x 7'' G5's?

520 pounds

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I'll be honest, this is the first time I have ever looked at this list. I like it quite a bit. I'll accept whatever arguments people have about it but for meit helps me get an idea as to where I stand in the scheme of bending.

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I'm surprised this list isn't pinned. Once again great work Eric and thanks for the information, it's a great help.

Guess we'll be seeing 5/16" G8 up there soon eh. ;)

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Here's something interesting I've noted about kinking spikes. First of all, I've calibrated the spikes using a 30 degree bend, which coincides with the approximate necessary degree of bend before you'll be able to finish off the spike. So, the calibration ratings of the spikes reflect how much force you'll need to apply with a partial row movement, save one factor. This calibration reading is based on the force being applied at points 3/4" in from the spike's ends. Of course we can't grip it that close to the end and generate sufficient force. So, my guess is that a spike with a calibration rating of 400 pounds would probably take atleast 500 pounds of force to acquire the necessarty kink. By the way, I grasp the spike with only my first two fingers out on the ends. For the fun of it, I'm going to load up my loading pin with a spike centered on the steel loop. I'll grasp the spike like I would for the start of a bend and measure just how much weight it takes to reach a 30 degree bend. I'll report back with a reading of what kind of weight we're doing with a two fingered partial row movement. I think spike bending takes significant grip strength during the initial phase of the bend.

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Well, I guess my technique is more efficient than I thought. Though my forefingers are about 1.5" in from the spike's ends, the force they're applying to the spike must be centered at a point about .75" from the ends. One of the 10" FBBC spikes took 403 pounds to reach 30 degrees using my bending grip, which is the same weight it took to calibrate using my device which applies the force at a point .75" in from the ends. There's a lot of neat little coincidences here.

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As I was thinking about this I realised you will still need to exert more force on the spike when bending it over your shin due to the fact that there's more surface area with which the spike will be contacting. With a loading pin there's very little surface area, but with the leather padding placed over your tibia you have more surface area. I noticed the spikes bent over a loading pin make a sharper "V" than do the ones bent over a shin. The spike with a sharper "V" will be easier to bend.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The stainless is calibrated! Boy do I love calibrating, and bending, new stock! You'll notice the 5/16" stainless round is considerably tougher than the 5/16" hexagonal and a bit easier than 5/16" grade 5 (triangle on the head) stock. The stainless 1/4" stock is basically indistinguishable from its cold rolled counterpart. Good call, John. By the way, I modified the rating of the 5/16" x 7" grade 5 bolt rating. It's actually tougher than I was originally giving it credit for.

At the next Show of Hands I think we'll be able to use stock of all the same length, with the great incremental progression of stock FBBC now offers.

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Eric, thanks again for the updates man and thank you John for sending Eric the steel to test so we can all have new goals and updated progression lists. Makes moving aorund workouts easier if you have a good idea where certain stock stand.

-Sean

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The 5/16" x 6" stainless round weighs in at 715 pounds.

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I added to the list a 1/4 x 6" "BL" bolt, and a 1/4 x 5.5" "HKT" bolt.

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wow, the stainless is a great intermediary for the HEX and BIG G5.I predict many a fat G5 going down in the near future..John Beatty will go down in bending history as the man who got us there!! :rock

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  • 2 weeks later...
I see the list as information. Relativistic information. Regardless of how you bend, the relative difficulty of each piece of steel will be in the order of how Eric has listed it. Hand placement, technique, etc. will make a difference on the actual amount of force, but the actual order of difficulty will not be changed. The percentage of difficulty will not be changed. This is information that Eric took the time to provide us with and I don't know about you, but I value my time more than just about anything else! Thank you very much Eric! :bow

I second that. whether or not the actual weight is correct the whole test shows the difficulty between one metal compared to the next so that in general helps out alot ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've added to the list a "S30400" 5/16 x 6" bolt and a 70D Keystone.

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I finally got an opportunity to calibrate the 5/16" x 7" grade 8. 685 pounds! I classify this as a DANGEROUS bolt!

I also added to the list the Keystone brand 60D.

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I finally got an opportunity to calibrate the 5/16" x 7" grade 8. 685 pounds! I classify this as a DANGEROUS bolt!

holy crap! :yikes

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks to Alawadhi, I was given access to a "triangle" black colored grade 5 bolt, which I've calibrated for the list.

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Eric

Have you tried a 6" x 1/4" F911 bolt? I've ordered a couple of these (expensive bolt--not for volume work!!) for motivation--I've heard that these are harder than a G9. Of course, I'm nowhere close at the moment, as in I'm working on a "JH" brand G5 bolt. So its JUST for motivation at the present time.

Justin Reagan

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Justin,

I just looked at the list and I was going to pose the same question. I just read about these aerospace grade F911 bolts and printed out an order sheet. They advertise as being 20% tougher than grade 8. They sure are neat looking for a bolt.

Later,

Tim

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Eric

Have you tried a 6" x 1/4" F911 bolt? I've ordered a couple of these (expensive bolt--not for volume work!!) for motivation--I've heard that these are harder than a G9. Of course, I'm nowhere close at the moment, as in I'm working on a "JH" brand G5 bolt. So its JUST for motivation at the present time.

Justin Reagan

No, I sure haven't. I have bent a couple of grade 9 bolts, though.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Eric have you calibrated the yellow, blue and red nail? Sorry if I missed it. I know they're a little easier than there FBBC counterparts but I'm curious to see by how much.

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Eric-

I've added a few more toys, I'll send you a few to test out, including the 7" x 3/8" grade 2's Franky wanted.

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Eric-

I've added a few more toys, I'll send you a few to test out, including the 7" x 3/8" grade 2's Franky wanted.

Uh, oh. :blush

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Eric have you calibrated the yellow, blue and red nail? Sorry if I missed it. I know they're a little easier than there FBBC counterparts but I'm curious to see by how much.

I've calibrated the Red. You'll see it listed as a percentage value of the 5/16" FBBC round stock. I haven't calibrated a Blue.

Eric-

I've added a few more toys, I'll send you a few to test out, including the 7" x 3/8" grade 2's Franky wanted.

Lookin' forward to it! Thank you.

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