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Reinard's Grip Training


daniel reinard

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Did some climbing and pinching today.

Kept climbs mild and focused on footwork. Top rope today, no lead partner :(

11a, 11b, 11b, 11c

Plate pinches:

2x25 5 sec hold

2x35 5 sec hold

2x45 assisted lift and negative

2x35 5 sec hold

2x25 10 sec hold

LH able to do a decent hold now. RH feels about 10lb away from a 2x45 but who knows. It's a big jump.

Nice overall workouts, the goals you have are coming :mosher

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Thanks. Been winging it so far. I have a IM hub and RT on the way so things are going to get even more diversified. I'm going to continue to focus on the #3 and red nail and will rotate the pinching, hub and RT around when I reach a side goal (ex: 2x45 pinch). Should keep me occupied for a while. The goals will probably come slower but I'm not too worried about it. I'd rather have a good overall grip.

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Thanks. Been winging it so far. I have a IM hub and RT on the way so things are going to get even more diversified. I'm going to continue to focus on the #3 and red nail and will rotate the pinching, hub and RT around when I reach a side goal (ex: 2x45 pinch). Should keep me occupied for a while. The goals will probably come slower but I'm not too worried about it. I'd rather have a good overall grip.

To me, overall strength will help keep one injury free and keep motivation high...nice plan :cool

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Grippers and bending today. Also received my IM hub and RT. Can't wait to try them out next week! (no weights at my house :( )

2 sets #1 x 5 rep no set

2 sets #2 x 1 rep MMS

1 set #2.5 x 1 rep MMS

4 sets #3 x 1 rep MMS, RH ~.4"

2 sets #3 x 1 rep negatives

3 sets #2 x 1 rep no set, all RH closes, none LH

Day3: Iso work (find max and do 1 step up for iso)

7"

1/4" CRS x 2 done

17/64" O-1 x 1 done

9/32" O-1 x 1 done (didn't expect to bend this! was supposed to be my iso bar. too me awhile to figure out the bend transition from sweep to crush but once I did it fell quickly)

19/64" O-1 x 5 ISO attempts, got a small kink on 1st try but couldn't get it past that

4.5" x 1/4" G2 x 1 done for fun

Rubber band extensors

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Grippers and bending today. Felt good gripper wise, but totally felt weak bending. Good thing it was a volume day for bending. Been trying to increase no set gripper strength a lot more in preparation for #3 CCS. #3 MMS progress is steady and no set ability getting much better. I can almost no set #2.5 when that's my max gripper MMS too. What I'm doing is trying to get the #3 MMS for now but also trying to get no set closes on all the rest of the lower range grippers. I've been phasing out MMS except for max attempts. I know it'll be best long term for overall grip strength, but I also think it changes the workout a bit to keep from hitting a rut, and to keep growing gripper wise.

1 set #1 x 5 rep no set

2 sets #2 x 1 rep no set

1 set #2.5 x 1 rep MMS no LH close, been a while since LH got it. Feels strong, just range of close is not there at last .25"

4 sets #3 x 1 rep MMS RH ~.3", LH ~.5"

3 sets #2.5 x 1 rep no set attempts, ~.2" RH

1 set #2 x 1 rep no set

10x 8"x1/4" CRS was going to increase hardness to keep reps in 5-10 range but felt really weak and barely made out with this workout. Must still be whooped from Friday's ISOs.

Rubber band extensors.

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Thanks guys.

Climbed today and got to use my IM hub and RT.

Climbed for an hour.

2x35lb plate 5 second holds.

2x45lb plate negative

Here's where it got interesting. I don't have a loading pin (yet) so I clipped the IM hub and RT to a machine to do pulls. I'm going to post a question in the equipment or grip forum about this.

I did 70lb both hands on the IM hub. I think that's high considering I'm new to grip sports. It's the older version hub and unsanded.

Then I clipped in the RT. It's also the older version. I pulled 200lb, which was the max on the machine. After a couple singles I did 1 set 10 reps each hand. I also think this is too high.

I then went back to climbing for another hour.

I felt good today but didn't push it because I plan on trying to kick butt at grippers and bending on Friday! Also the hub and RT were new so I didn't want to overdo it.

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Did some looking in about using machines and I'm going to stay away from them. I'm ordering up a loading pin and sticking to numbers that are concrete. The hub and RT weights I pulled could have been anywhere between half to a third of the listed weight. That's more believable. :laugh

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Grippers and bending today. Grippers have been feeling good but bending right afterwards has been difficult. I definitely feel zapped and can't bend as hard as I want.

1 set #1 x 5 rep no set

2 set #2 x 1 rep no set

1 set #2.5 x 1 rep MMS RH close, LH ~.1"

4 set #3 x 1 rep MMS RH ~.25", LH ~.6"

3 set #2.5 x 1 rep no set RH ~.25", LH ~.5"

1 set #2 x 1 rep no set RH close, LH ~.25"

RH is making constant progress on that #3. Each workout it's a bit closer. The LH hasn't closed the #2.5 in a while. The final .25" on the close is giving me trouble on all grippers LH. Hmmm...

Bend 7.5" for a PR day:

1/4" O-1 DR bent

19/64" O-1 DR kink only, 2nd time can't finish this rod

9/32" O-1 DR kink only, 1st time I crushed this rod, must be tired this time

17/64" O-1 DR bent two of these

Maybe next time I bend I shouldn't do grippers beforehand and see what happens.

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Was supposed to be an off day but decided to play with the IM hub to find a strong technique. My best grip gave me an extra 8lb to up it to 43lb on my unsanded hub. I want another so I can sand it a bit to see what difference it makes. I was able to do this both hands. Not bad for a starting point.

Ordered up a loading pin and can't wait to play with the RT for a baseline. I could only clip 100lb to it today w/o a pin so I'll have to be patient to see if I have 150lb in me.

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Your bending is going along smoothly. You won't always be able to progress linearly of course. But some of the supercompensation is built up by accumulating volume and workouts. Sometimes regardless of whether they feel like "great" workouts or not.

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Thanks Ben. Today's bending felt good even if it was just an ISO day. I was able to keep at it pretty hard even though I did grippers beforehand again. Grippers felt weak today, probably due to IM hub pinching yesterday.

1 set #1 x 5 rep no set

2 set #2 x 1 rep no set

1 set #2.5 x 1 rep MMS LH miss

1 set #3 x 1 rep MMS attempt

3 set #3 x 1 rep negatives

3 set #2.5 x 1 rep no set attempts

1 set #2 x 1 rep no set LH miss ~.1"

Grippers felt weak so turned it into a negatives workout.

7" ISO bar work

5x 19/64" O-1 DR This bar had a small kink in it but wanted to see if I could move it. I got a tiny bit more kink on it. I'm ok with that!

3x 5/16" HRS no movement

1x 4.5" x 1/4" CRS bar for fun. This one was a bitch from start to finish but I got it. So worth the fight! I've never tried a bar under 5" and man does it feel short!

1x 6" x 1/4" G2 bolt barehand. I want to try one barehand each bending day to help toughen the hands. It already had a small kink but today I got some more on it reverse style.

I felt pretty good this bending day, not my freshist, but enough that I could give it tons of hell even if it was an ISO day.

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Received my loading pin today so I HAD to load it up for some IM hub and RT pulls. I've ghetto rigged some hub pulls before and have never had a way to do big pulls on the RT.

I pulled 50lb RH on the unsanded hub and 161.5lb LH on the RT. I'm happy with those starting points. This would be the third day in a row I worked grip. So addicting.

I hit my IM hub goal so I need to change that and I think with some rest I'll do a bodyweight RT pull. I have a climbing competition on Friday so I really need to rest then get back to grip on Monday. Woohoo!

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Those are some damn good numbers for getting going on those implements.

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Those are some damn good numbers for getting going on those implements.

Thanks. I was surprised with the hub lift, it felt really good. I expected a 150lb RT pull and felt I could have done 170lb but I was zapped from 2 previous days of grip work. My arms are killing me now.

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I had a climbing comp last night. Maybe it was the lack of sleep or too much grip work during the week, but I got my worst score ever. Bah!

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Ended up doing a gauntlet of grip today.

Warmup bouldering V0-V2's

RT

96.5 x 5 rep

141.5 x 1 rep

151.5 x 1 rep LH good, RH fail

161.5 x 1 rep LH good, RH fail

166.5 x 1 rep both fail, PR still 161.5 LH

IM hub

40 x 1 rep

50 x 1 rep RH good, LH fail

55 x 1 rep both fail

52.5 x 1 rep both fail

40 x 5 second hold both good

CoC #3 x 1 rep 2 fast sets attempts

IM hub

40 x 5 second holds 4 sets

2x35lb plate pinch 3 second holds 2 sets

RT

126.5 x 5 1 set

131.5 x 5 2 sets

CoC #3 x 1 rep 3 fast sets RH ~.25"

Climbing

V4's x 3 all flashes

V6 fail, V7 fail

Toprope, 11d, 11c, 11d

35lb weighted pullups x 5 rep 1 set

55lb weighted pullups x 2 rep 1 set

Rubber band extensors

I had lots of endurance today so I just threw tons of grip stuff, one after another. I actually stopped today due to being light-headed from lack of food. Should of eaten before hand. I felt great climbing and the #3 felt great too. I was just showing it to others and didn't really go for a good set and I surprised myself with a .25". Climbing felt great. I figured I'd tire out the hands THEN climb so I am forced to use technique but the hands still felt great. They just kept going. I'm sure I'll pay the price tomorrow.

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Bending today, then some gym climbing tonight. Forearms feel sore and whooped from mondays crazy session. Been a while since I felt this sore. Feels good :D

8"

1/4" crs 6x

ISO work on bars I got a kink on

Barehand attempts DU and Rv 6"x1/4" G2.

Bending strength is still down compared to when I started. Haven't figured out why yet.

Headed to gym to climb. I'll definitely get my pump on to get the blood flowing in these sore arms.

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Finished off the night with climbing and light pinch work.

V0, 1, 2, 3, 5 all flashes

2x35lb plate pinch. Couldn't get air. I normally do hold with these.

2x25lb plate pinch 10 seconds holds, 2 sets

V4 x 2 flashes

11a, 11c, 12a toprope

I tried a couple more routes but was too tired. Hands still felt decent, rest of my body failed. Still a good day.

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Was debating on whether to take a second rest day since muscles are still sore or bend today. I needed to break a mental barrier today and I had some serious fire in me so I chose to hit the steel! Glad I did.

2x 60d nails

1x 7.5" x 9/32" O-1 DR had a small wobble from last time I tried, this time I killed it

1x 7.5" x 19/64" O-1 DR same story with this one, small whobble but killed it for a 7.5" PR

2x 7" Red Nail ISO work, had to give it a couple blasts since I was on a roll

1x 7" x 5/16" HRS tiny kink, first dent on a 5/16"

1x 6" x 1/4" G5 bolt killed it, never able to even kink a G5 before

1x 6" x 1/4" B7 bolt got it to 90 degrees. I worked this for 10 minutes but couldn't crush it! Felt springy, hardest crush I've ever felt.

1x 7" x 1/4" Square ISO work, not a dent

I dug REAL deep for this session. Found out first hand how mental bending is and plowed through a slump. I was getting worried a Red nail might be out of the picture for me. Now I know it doesn't matter, just give it everything I got.

Edited by daniel reinard
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Big workout today, a bit of everything. I was sick this weekend so that may have played a part in most my excersises being weak. Either that or my muscles are tired. :upsidedwn

Grippers

1 set #1 x 5 rep no set

1 set #2 x 2 rep no set

4 set #3 x 1 rep MMS attempts, RH ~.3" still

1 set #2.5 x 1 rep no set attempt

2 set #3.5 x 1 rep negatives

Bending

1x 60d nail

1x 606 nail cut to 5.5"

1x 19/64" x 7" O1 drill rod crushed to 1.1" A 7" PR. Now I can try my 390lb and 395lb cal'd 19/64" stock to verify where I'm at. The whole bend was find EXCEPT the 90 degree part. I did a ton of ISO work last bending workout at that 90 degree part so I wonder if I can tire more just at certain parts?

RT

1 set 96.5 x 5 second hold

1 set 141.5 x 1 rep

2.5 set 141.5 x 5 rep couldn't finish set no matter how much I tried.

IM hub

5 set 40lb x 5 second holds

Climbing toprope

11b, 11c, 11d, 11d, 11b, 11b, 11b

Nothing felt strong today. Actually I felt a bit weak at everything. I climbed until I couldn't hold on any more. I think climbing is a good cooldown workout since I don't feel too sore the next day even though I can feel how tired my arms are.

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Strong bending Daniel! Keep on working at it and soon the Red Nail will be only a memory and a notch on your bender's belt.:mosher

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