How Many Mms Reps Equals 1x Ccs?

[Royz]

Personally I know I will need at least 8 solid mms reps before I would be able to ccs a gripper.

I know the answer to this question will be different for everybody, but I was just wondering what numbers you guys would have on average.

[JoshW]

Mines about 6 mms before I can ccs

[John McCarter]

Personally I know I will need at least 8 solid mms reps before I would be able to ccs a gripper.

I know the answer to this question will be different for everybody, but I was just wondering what numbers you guys would have on average.

To a certain degree, the answer you're looking for has been answered. What I was going to say is that it will depend on your levels of strength and where you currently are at in terms of your goal.

As I was informed by Paul Knight, the most mms reps you want to perform is 10. When you can get that said number, the gripper should be very easy to actually work from a ccs distance. Personally, I could never get that many reps. When I get 5 straight mms/parallel reps, the gripper will be easy to actually ccs.

[Royz]

Personally I know I will need at least 8 solid mms reps before I would be able to ccs a gripper.

I know the answer to this question will be different for everybody, but I was just wondering what numbers you guys would have on average.

To a certain degree, the answer you're looking for has been answered. What I was going to say is that it will depend on your levels of strength and where you currently are at in terms of your goal.

As I was informed by Paul Knight, the most mms reps you want to perform is 10. When you can get that said number, the gripper should be very easy to actually work from a ccs distance. Personally, I could never get that many reps. When I get 5 straight mms/parallel reps, the gripper will be easy to actually ccs.

Only 5 reps? That's great. Maybe I will just have to try a ccs close sooner next gripper up.;-)

[bwwm]

For me, CCS is a different enough ROM from MMS that I don't really find a majic number. I mix in both in my training. I find that strap holds with a gripper weaker than my goal gripper for a particular set are more effective.

[Royz]

For me, CCS is a different enough ROM from MMS that I don't really find a majic number. I mix in both in my training. I find that strap holds with a gripper weaker than my goal gripper for a particular set are more effective.

Thanks. With strapholds being more effective do you mean, more effective for building strenght to close your goal gripper? Or more effective for building ccs strenght? Or both?

How much weight do you typically use with your strap holds?

[Mephistopholes]

Yeah, I think strapholds are the most effective way to build gripper strength. Spending that much time under tension at the hardest part of the close is great. Just start with a really light weight, and increase it in small increments.

[Geralt]

Yeah, I think strapholds are the most effective way to build gripper strength. Spending that much time under tension at the hardest part of the close is great. Just start with a really light weight, and increase it in small increments.

For me personally strapholds put a lot of stress on the tendons (if done correctly) and it's the gripper that's the main focus, not so much the weight on the strap. I think if you can do a straphold with more than 2.5 kg's you need to go the next gripper up and start all over again with the smallest weight and again building it up till that weight. No a magical number, you can also narrow it down to 1 kg. The purpose of the strapholds are just to create enough weight that the strap immediately drops when you let the handles come apart.

Best of all, in my opinion, when you really want benefit (and a humbling experience) fro strapholds, just put a very thin metal piece / ruler / etc between the handles, you don't even need weights for that. Metal is unforgiving and slips directly when tension is loosened. I do strapholds now mainly in the Silver Bullet form more as a finisher.

I agree with John McCarter furtherly.

[Mephistopholes]

Well in my opinion, getting up in weight really helped my progress. I'd go for shorter length holds and just try to lift the weight with the gripper, basically. But everybody responds to things differently.

For sure the metal piece Is the best way to go though. Doing strapholds with a piece of belt or something similar is a pain because you can't really tell (at least I can't) when you've "got it." A piece of metal is much easier to tell, and like you said, unforgiving when you open up even a millimeter.

One thing I've found beneficial is to use a big Fender Washer, which has lots of surface area, with a shoestring tied through it to do strapholds with.

[John McCarter]

Personally, strap holds are very different for me. I like them and hate them. When I'm using a strap, I'll use an old belt but it places way too much stress on my hands and this is why I like the Silver Bullet more. I can focus more on the crushing movement without having to close my hand all the way. But also, when I use a strap, I will use it on a gripper that is filed BTR and that makes it more interesting. I find that moving up in weight for these movements can be hard at times, but, it doesn't take much weight to work your hands. Plus you can move up to the next gripper with a lighter weight. Here's something really interesting when I went through the Tommy Heslep book and saw the numbers he was using for strap holds: would use a #3 and hold 35lbs. The amount of time was never shown but if a person could build up to that weight, you're looking at something very interesting.

[Geralt]

Personally, strap holds are very different for me. I like them and hate them. When I'm using a strap, I'll use an old belt but it places way too much stress on my hands and this is why I like the Silver Bullet more. I can focus more on the crushing movement without having to close my hand all the way. But also, when I use a strap, I will use it on a gripper that is filed BTR and that makes it more interesting. I find that moving up in weight for these movements can be hard at times, but, it doesn't take much weight to work your hands. Plus you can move up to the next gripper with a lighter weight. Here's something really interesting when I went through the Tommy Heslep book and saw the numbers he was using for strap holds: would use a #3 and hold 35lbs. The amount of time was never shown but if a person could build up to that weight, you're looking at something very interesting.

..and the sorts of straps. I have thin nylon laces which are much harder than an old piece of dogline / strap I use. Nylon leash with 35 lbs? No way....35 lbs with the old dogleash? Much more doable.