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1/4" Stainless In Leather Pads


Jared Goguen

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I thought I would share my best bend so far. I've been bending about a week or so now and I can bend the IM White and Green no problem. When I was at the hardwear store I saw they had some 1/4" stainless for a good price so I got some and cut a 8" section and gave it a go double overhand style.

Took me about 4-5 minutes. I seem to be having a hard time getting the kink going but then when I do I have no problem with my sweep and crush. Any advice or things I should try?

Next ill try a 7 1/2" and a 7" of this stuff.

vQbXTrp.jpggNklca5.jpg

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Nice job and welcome to bending. Stainless steel is no joke to bend because it loads up pretty good on the crush. I'd try a 7 inch piece and see where you are.

As for the trouble kinking the 8 inch piece, that's an awkward length for 90 percent of the bending world so that may be why you are having trouble. That's a very solid bend for a beginner so I'd feel good about it if I were you.

If you make a video of your bending, we can all offer suggestions of how to get the most out of it. You'll get tons of great advice and I'd say try it all and keep what works for you.

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Nice job and welcome to bending. Stainless steel is no joke to bend because it loads up pretty good on the crush. I'd try a 7 inch piece and see where you are.

As for the trouble kinking the 8 inch piece, that's an awkward length for 90 percent of the bending world so that may be why you are having trouble. That's a very solid bend for a beginner so I'd feel good about it if I were you.

If you make a video of your bending, we can all offer suggestions of how to get the most out of it. You'll get tons of great advice and I'd say try it all and keep what works for you.

Thanks ill try to get a video up. I know I likely have a lot I could improve on so the advice is massively helpful.

I guess I didn't know what length I should start at so that's why I tried the 8".

Also what do you mean it loads up on the crush?

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Stainless is much harder to crush for it's diameter than regular cold rolled steel. The further you bend it, the tougher it gets. I belive they say it's because it work hardens as you bend it.

If you were to try a 6 inch piece of that, you'd almost definately notice. Drill rod loads up as well but not as much as stainless.

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Stainless is much harder to crush for it's diameter than regular cold rolled steel. The further you bend it, the tougher it gets. I belive they say it's because it work hardens as you bend it.

If you were to try a 6 inch piece of that, you'd almost definately notice. Drill rod loads up as well but not as much as stainless.

Thanks for the information and advice. I'm pretty sure 6" is well beyond my ability.

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Try the 6"-7" stuff, you will be surprised with how quickly you bend it. 8" is tricky, especially with the flexability of shoulders etc

Ill give it a shot soon.

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If you make a video of your bending, we can all offer suggestions of how to get the most out of it. You'll get tons of great advice and I'd say try it all and keep what works for you.

Here is a short video of doing the green nail for a form check.

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I'll check the video out when I get home. The green is 5 inch stock so it will be much different from a 7 inch bend so I'd make it my next goal to try a 7 inch piece of the stainless and video it. Even if you were to fail, we could give you some good feedback.

Later

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I'll check the video out when I get home. The green is 5 inch stock so it will be much different from a 7 inch bend so I'd make it my next goal to try a 7 inch piece of the stainless and video it. Even if you were to fail, we could give you some good feedback.

Later

Thanks

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If you make a video of your bending, we can all offer suggestions of how to get the most out of it. You'll get tons of great advice and I'd say try it all and keep what works for you.

Here is a short video of doing the green nail for a form check.

Video is set to "private", can't see it.

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Video is set to "private", can't see it.

My bad, should be fixed now.

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Can't tell anything from the video it was too easy for you. Bend something you have to work for and check back with a video. Also get chalk. You will need it.

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Can't tell anything from the video it was too easy for you. Bend something you have to work for and check back with a video. Also get chalk. You will need it.

How about this? 7" x 1/4" stainless.

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Get the bar up under your chin and against your throat as close and high as you can. You also need to wrap a little deeper so the bar doesn't slip or pop out of the wraps. Keep everything under your chin, not at your chest or nipples.

Watch your videos and compare your technique to other DO benders or videos. You will see exactly what I'm talking about.

Edited by EJ Livesey
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Thanks for the tip EJ ill give that a go next time.

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I second that about the chalk. The sky was a little bluer and the birds sung a little better the day I discovered chalk for bending. You don't realize how much you lose through slippage.

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Okay I finally got the video to work with my connection and it looks like you're using chalk so that's a good thing.

Also for somebody starting out and especially with a 7 inch piece, I thought your technique looked pretty good. As EJ said, the current crop of elite benders all go for putting the bar way up under your chin so that may be something you want to look at but I thought you did just fine with a bend that is pretty good for a beginner. Plenty of people starting out can't do anything with 1/4 by 7 inch stock.

Just starting out, work up slow with the difficulty and volume so as to avoid injury. Trust me, you'll use muscles that you don't normally use and things like tendonitis are not pleasant so work up slow at first.

Great job and it's great to see a new bender.

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Thanks for the pointers Tim. Yeah I chalked the inside of the of IM Pads but not my hands, I will from now on.

Is the idea of putting so close under your chin just that you get mechanical advantage in that location?

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I tried putting some of the advice y'all gave me to use and managed to put a 50 degree bend in the Blue Nail. I honestly didn't think I was going make it move at all.

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Good attempt on that blue nail. I hate it whenever a bar get stuck in that akward transitional position where you can't quite kink it further, but you still can't interlock your fingers to crush it.

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Good attempt on that blue nail. I hate it whenever a bar get stuck in that akward transitional position where you can't quite kink it further, but you still can't interlock your fingers to crush it.

Do you just need to try and power through it?

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Good attempt on that blue nail. I hate it whenever a bar get stuck in that akward transitional position where you can't quite kink it further, but you still can't interlock your fingers to crush it.

Do you just need to try and power through it?

I find that as long as there is no major technique issue, the best way to get stronger is just putting in the work. Over time, your fine motorskills will hone in and those difficult parts will improve. On video it'll look the same, but the feel is completely different. You feel comfortable where you previously felt very akward. And you'll be able to bend harder steel.

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Thanks David, y'all have been super helpful and I look forward to bending some big stuff someday.

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To answer your earlier question, yes getting the bar up high gives a mechanical advantage. There have a been a few super elite benders who didn't bend that high up such as Pat Povalaitis and I believe Gazza didn't go quite as high either but I can't remember right now but with 98% of people, you'll get more power up high - maybe not at first but withing a very short period of time.

Very nice attempt at the blue nail.

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