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PeterSweden

170ish Lbs Grippers

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i need a mofoing 170 lbs rated gripper.

my elite rates at 161 i think and my gvhp8 and coc3,5 are both 180lbs. need another step on the ladder.

where do i get what i want??

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i need a mofoing 170 lbs rated gripper.

my elite rates at 161 i think and my gvhp8 and coc3,5 are both 180lbs. need another step on the ladder.

where do i get what i want??

I only have one in that range and its an old school "Thor" Elite that rates at 171.5 lbs. It has a higher mount than a typical new elite which makes it harder. I kept my eyes on the selling section of the board and jumped on it when Ben Edwards sold all his grip equipment. 170ish grippers are hard to find.

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Would a filed down low 160lbs gripper rate at 170? :)

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Would a filed down low 160lbs gripper rate at 170? :)

No.. Your best bet would be to remount it with the spring deeper in the handles. For a general reference of what gap makes what poundage, i once took about a mid 190lb super elite (that had a flush mount) and remounted the spring at 3/16" (MM4 replica specs) and it came out at exactly 184lbs after the remount. This same thing can be done in the opposite direction to make it harder, given the gripper isnt already a flush mount.

I would love to experiment more with this to determine a general rule of thumb about what distance gaps will produce what poundage, but right now i have most every desired poundage on all my grippers, so i dont need to remount any at this time. I am, however, confindent that a 3/16" change in gap (in either direction) will produce +/- 10lbs (almost exactly) to your pre-rated gripper.

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Would a filed down low 160lbs gripper rate at 170? :)

No.. Your best bet would be to remount it with the spring deeper in the handles. For a general reference of what gap makes what poundage, i once took about a mid 190lb super elite (that had a flush mount) and remounted the spring at 3/16" (MM4 replica specs) and it came out at exactly 184lbs after the remount. This same thing can be done in the opposite direction to make it harder, given the gripper isnt already a flush mount.

I would love to experiment more with this to determine a general rule of thumb about what distance gaps will produce what poundage, but right now i have most every desired poundage on all my grippers, so i dont need to remount any at this time. I am, however, confindent that a 3/16" change in gap (in either direction) will produce +/- 10lbs (almost exactly) to your pre-rated gripper.

btw, if anyone is interested, i can remount any gripper. but i will only mount them permanent using pins, AND glue, and likely removing whatever markings on bottom of the handle since it will have been modified, and so no one claims to be closing a legit said gripper afterwards. i am only making a tool when i do this.. a tool someone can use to grow stronger. so this is not so someone can send me a #4, have me make it easier to close, then be claiming to close a legit #4. the only reason i considered this, is due to the fact that some poundages of rated grippers are like searching for bigfoot. either that or noone wants to sell them if they have them..

youll also want to keep in mind that if you want your gripper to be remounted to make it harder to close, A.K.A. have a higher RGC, then it cannot already be a flush mount.. i will need some room to mount deeper.

Edited by mudhutmasher
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Tommy, that's a great idea and offer.

I gotta take you up on that soon!

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Tommy, that's a great idea and offer.

I gotta take you up on that soon!

anytime dewd. i saw that you were hunting for a 125ish gripper.. i could change a hard GHP 6 or a hard 2.5 into a 125ish gripper. but it will have pins afterward if you dont mind. i would highly recommend it be rated before hand by someone who rates tons of grippers. this way i get a more accurate detrmination in how far i need to move it on the remount so the outcome poundage will be desired.

guys keep in that if you send them to me to be remounted you cover shipping charges both ways and throw in an extra 10 or so bucks towards the cost of drill bits and roll pins.. the drill bits are gonna get ate up fast on some of the stuff that has the GR8 wire, and the pins i will have to buy in bulk. so an even 20 bucks should cover everything. (unless you live overseas)

Edited by mudhutmasher
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Matt you are freaking hilarious. Great idea with the Bigfoot photo.

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Awesome,but i think that 175 is even harder to find LOL.

for 175, average COC #3.5's and GHP 8's. I have a weak MM3 Replica is that range also.

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Cannon, are you serious?

You have ONE of those 170lbs?

I want it if you do :)

Can you hold it 2 days til I get my pay?

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I'm serious. Yeah, it's just one.

I've posted it publically for sale at the store, and unfortunately it will be first come. There were a LOT of people looking for one of these.

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...and it disappears into the forest. :ninja:

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...and it disappears into the forest. :ninja:

It must be one crazy "grip obsessed" person. Man, they must really like grippers. lol

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Would a filed down low 160lbs gripper rate at 170? :)

No.. Your best bet would be to remount it with the spring deeper in the handles. For a general reference of what gap makes what poundage, i once took about a mid 190lb super elite (that had a flush mount) and remounted the spring at 3/16" (MM4 replica specs) and it came out at exactly 184lbs after the remount. This same thing can be done in the opposite direction to make it harder, given the gripper isnt already a flush mount.

I would love to experiment more with this to determine a general rule of thumb about what distance gaps will produce what poundage, but right now i have most every desired poundage on all my grippers, so i dont need to remount any at this time. I am, however, confindent that a 3/16" change in gap (in either direction) will produce +/- 10lbs (almost exactly) to your pre-rated gripper.

btw, if anyone is interested, i can remount any gripper. but i will only mount them permanent using pins, AND glue, and likely removing whatever markings on bottom of the handle since it will have been modified, and so no one claims to be closing a legit said gripper afterwards. i am only making a tool when i do this.. a tool someone can use to grow stronger. so this is not so someone can send me a #4, have me make it easier to close, then be claiming to close a legit #4. the only reason i considered this, is due to the fact that some poundages of rated grippers are like searching for bigfoot. either that or noone wants to sell them if they have them..

youll also want to keep in mind that if you want your gripper to be remounted to make it harder to close, A.K.A. have a higher RGC, then it cannot already be a flush mount.. i will need some room to mount deeper.

You can go deeper than flush, generally around 3mm or 1/8".

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Would a filed down low 160lbs gripper rate at 170? :)

No.. Your best bet would be to remount it with the spring deeper in the handles. For a general reference of what gap makes what poundage, i once took about a mid 190lb super elite (that had a flush mount) and remounted the spring at 3/16" (MM4 replica specs) and it came out at exactly 184lbs after the remount. This same thing can be done in the opposite direction to make it harder, given the gripper isnt already a flush mount.

I would love to experiment more with this to determine a general rule of thumb about what distance gaps will produce what poundage, but right now i have most every desired poundage on all my grippers, so i dont need to remount any at this time. I am, however, confindent that a 3/16" change in gap (in either direction) will produce +/- 10lbs (almost exactly) to your pre-rated gripper.

btw, if anyone is interested, i can remount any gripper. but i will only mount them permanent using pins, AND glue, and likely removing whatever markings on bottom of the handle since it will have been modified, and so no one claims to be closing a legit said gripper afterwards. i am only making a tool when i do this.. a tool someone can use to grow stronger. so this is not so someone can send me a #4, have me make it easier to close, then be claiming to close a legit #4. the only reason i considered this, is due to the fact that some poundages of rated grippers are like searching for bigfoot. either that or noone wants to sell them if they have them..

youll also want to keep in mind that if you want your gripper to be remounted to make it harder to close, A.K.A. have a higher RGC, then it cannot already be a flush mount.. i will need some room to mount deeper.

You can go deeper than flush, generally around 3mm or 1/8".

I could likely get it just past flush and still not have any closing issues.. But it would likely only make a couple pound increase. And if its a Tetting, then thats not enough room to make new holes in the wire without egging out the previous holes.. Which would make for loose handles. If i were to remount a Tetting by that small of a distance i would either have to make new holes on the handles either above or below the originals, or the pins could go in the same old holes in the handles, but they would be turned off to the side to prevent handle movement. ..but doing this with any other gripper wont be an issue.

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Awesome,but i think that 175 is even harder to find LOL.

For sure. And whats frustrating about it is there cant be more than 60 or so guys actually closing them.

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